Discussion and questions related to the course Practical Engine Building
I’m building my first engine and I’ve run into a bit of a snag. My pushrod length is becoming a headache. I installed compa cam checker springs, purchased a pushrod length checker tool, and marked the top of the valves. There’s not enough pressure being put on the top of the valve to remove the marker. I believe it’s due to the hydraulic rolller leaking down. Is there a way to prevent the leak down? I was considering adding a washer, then subtracting the size of the washer from the overall length. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated!
ive never used studs before, would someone take a quick look at the pics I’ve attached and tell me if these are 2 short? I’m thinking there for a 302.
I'm old school Chev', not Ford, but have some familiarity with their small blocks - but I may be in error...
They are short, should have a minimum of 1.5 threads showing clear of the nut. AFAIK, the studs should be the same for all W engines, might be the wrong ones used (Cleveland? Some other engine?) or the alloy head may need longer studs due to more material around the bosses - I'd suggest contacting ARP for clarification as they definitely aren't right.
Back in the flat tappet days, we just used a couple of solid lifters for checking - they were only a few bucks - but that isn't really an option for you.  half asleep, will resume tomorrow.
I assume by removing the marker, you mean the rocker tips aren't contacting the valve tip with enough force? It's been quite a while, but the tools for checking pushrod length are usually slipped over the stud and the pushrod length adjusted until the tool just contacts the valve tip. the other method I used, IIRC, was to use a little engineers blue on the valve tip and rotate the engine to check the rocker tip/roller doesn't get too close to the valve stem edge - the closer it is to the centre line the better.
Head studs defiantly wrong, see if the paperwork that came with the heads mentions a part number for you.