Thomas's ez30r swap won't run.

Hello my name is Thomas.

Im building a 2005 legacy wagon. Its been about 4 years. I work on it and watch hpa about 10 hrs a week. My wifes car needs its transmission redone so im running out of time and need to get it running.

I have swaped in a h6 ez30r with forged internals, turbo'd it and upgraded fuel system, I have also swapped in a 2005 sti transmission, rear diff, front knuckles, Custom driveline and cv axles. I also built the engine harness, and wired the inside.

I am using a haltech nexus r3 to control the engine and a dccd pro spyder for the transmission.

I am running into many problems. I should not have got for such an ambitious project and should not have done all the steps at the same time. now im here and i want to learn but dont want to be chaising my tail and need some help

1. I cant get it to idle. Ive broken 2 starters and paid $400 to a remote tuner for 8 hrs over 3 days. Ive watched webinar 205 many times. The only time i have gotten it to idle smooth was with max cranking set to 5000 & ve at 120. Of course thats not good as my fans wouldn't work, overheating, and all sorts of other things. I have set it to 200-800. Its super rough and i can only get it sputter and cough. I cant get it to think its running on the time table. ive tried dissabling the fuel cranking & post start tables and enabling them. Trimming or adding 10% Fuel. Flood clear mode. I have not messed with timing more than 5°. The best ive gotten it idling for 30 seconds "max cranking" at 700, startup tables disabled, base efficiency at 138. It is hunting really bad, popping, smoking. The lambda goes between lambda .8-1.2 Or too cold. Its been cold. My tables keep moving through temps as i wear out my starter.

If i could just get it to idle id have something to go off of.

2. My dash is a nightmare

All the stock wiring is still there. Im watching canbus classes. I have not been able to get my dash to respond to anything. On top of that i have traced a power draw to the dash circuit /starter fuse.

3. My abs

I have swaped my transmission and front knuckles. This is bound to mess with my abs.

is this a plug and play harness

No it was a flying loom I turned into a engine and body harness separated by a deutschworks round ~50 pin connector. I got most of the connectors from iwire.

I got it to idle with sync errors. I'm pretty sure my tuner had me swap my home to the wrong cam. I'm still waiting on haltech for what cam I'm supposed to use.

Hy there,

isn´t the "max cranking" value to set the border of RPM over which the ecu consider the Engine as running? So if you set it to 5000 RPM it will always think it is cranking and wont react to ignition and fuel tables but the cranking table.

Have you started as often discribed: checking inputs and outputs first, write correct injectors in ecu, check trigger patterns, check timing with timing light etc.??

greetings

Ok updates, I did not set my injecters correctly. Deutschworks did not sent a flow chart and when I asked them for it they assumed I was putting them in a stock application and said i dont need them. I returned those and got id1050x. They Work perfect after resetting my fuel tables

I was ignorantly using max cranking as a way to get past the sync error with all cranking table modifiers turned OFF. I did this so i could get it to idle, look for leaks, and check my oscilloscope. ChatGPT taught me how to achieve this with with my trigger sync settings. I was only able to get it to run with sync errors. Never fully syncing.

I phisicaly checked and scrubbed my trigger plate By dropping my transmission again. Thats when haltech got back to me without an answer as to what cam sensor to use. They wanted a wanted a log though. I sent them a log and they havent replied for a week. so i decided to swap my cam wiring back, again... but now im waiting on parts again...Ive been told to swap it 3 times. This will be a 4th time.

I dont know what you mean by checking trigger pattern.

I put a light on it and do not see any marks on my pully i just turned it over twice and dont think my pulley has a mark.

Ok updates, I did not set my injecters correctly. Deutschworks did not sent a flow chart and when I asked them for it they assumed I was putting them in a stock application and said i dont need them. I returned those and got id1050x. They Work perfect after resetting my fuel tables

I was ignorantly using max cranking as a way to get past the sync error with all cranking table modifiers turned OFF. I did this so i could get it to idle, look for leaks, and check my oscilloscope. ChatGPT taught me how to achieve this with with my trigger sync settings. So max cranking is normal now. I was only able to get it to run with sync errors. Never fully syncing.

I phisicaly checked and scrubbed my trigger plate By dropping my transmission again. Thats when haltech got back to me without an answer as to what cam sensor to use. They wanted a wanted a log though. I sent them a log and they havent replied for a week. so i decided to swap my cam wiring back, again... but now im waiting on parts again...Ive been told to swap it 3 times. This will be a 4th time.

I dont know what you mean by checking trigger pattern.

I put a light on it and do not see any marks on my pully i just turned it over twice and dont think my pulley has a mark.

I don't know if I'm even send these logs right.

Hey there,

I don't know much about haltech Ecu´s and neither have I much experience. As I have learned you need to configure your ecu how your trigger is configured. How many teeth, gabs and degree offset to top dead center.

here an example for your(maybe?) trigger system.

https://www.maxxecu.com/webhelp/trigger_system-subaru_ez30.html

But I would recommend the help of a professional.I believe a tuner should be able to identify problems like those you are describing.

Good luck with your build!

Thank you for replying rick.

I have been using haltechs provided ez30 trigger. I have tried all the combinations of falling rising, pull-ups, and ground reference across range of error tolerances.

My issue is when my haltech instructions say the oh so very ambiguous "LEFT CAM" it doesn't say 1 or 2 and I have gotten both answers equally. So I'm still waiting on wires and pins.

Update: I was right the first time. The sensor is supposed to go on cam 2. I got it running but it is leaking from my Turbo I think it's because of my sub par drain line. I replaced said line with an A.N and now I am ready to tune.

Still having trouble with the dash -I think i'm going to go with a haltech dash.

My will speed sensors are still an issue and I think i'm going to try to install a custom tonering.