Standalone ECU Wiring - Looking for some validation

hello all, finally getting around to having all the parts and planning to wire everything together on my KTM 1290 engine (V twin, dual spark plugs)

basically i'm looking for some validation that my wiring diagram is on the right track since it'll be my first time.

i attached the wiring diagram i made on draw.io that i think is right.

also attached the MS3Pro pinout, PDM schematic, and quadspark diagram for reference.

appreciate any help up front, its been a long project for me to get this far. trying to get it running this year hopefully!

ECU: MS3Pro Mini

PDM: Aces PDM

Igniter: Quadspark

I've done an ECU swap on a 2017 KTM Super Duke 1290. Are you going to be using the factory drive-by-wire? I don't see anything for that.

Is the MS3Pro going to be running sequential injection? On the bike I did, there were two MAP sensors and I used the front one, to determine the phase of the engine while cranking -- once running, I couldn't do that. I also triggered both plugs at the same time (there was no provision for otherwise in the ECU I used).

The engine power output was very dependent on correct ignition timing. I tuned fuel and spark on a bike dyno. Worth every penny to use that tool.

Hi David!! I was trying to find the post you originally helped me in.

So here are some answers to your questions:

DBW:

So I deleted the DBW and added on a throttle pulley, will need to figure out the idle control stuff later, nothing holding open the throttle can't solve for now I'm hoping. I added on a ZX400 TPS which worked out pretty nicely I think.

MAP sensor:

I noticed the 2 built in sensors too and my plan was to use them, but Megasquirt told me it works better with one. So I plan to use the combo TMap sensor in the intake manifold. I'll be honest, I don't know much about using them to determine the phase of the engine, I might need to educate myself on that.

I did notice those tubes for balancing the throttle bodies after the throttle butterflys, do you think I can use that for anything? Maybe use as a line to the built-in MAP sensor on the ECU? Or with an Idle Control Valve?

Timing, Crank Sensor:

I think you mentioned that everything is based on the rear cylinder TDC and not the front one. Is that how I'll be setting up the Trigger Wheel? I just bought a wideband O2 sensor as well, I'll have to add that in to the drawing.

Ignition:

I remember you mentioning going Wasted Spark was the best method, is that how I have it wired? I based it all on just the two ignition outputs.

Injectors:

I'm still learning and reading about this stuff in the manual, I'm not entirely sure to be honest. I just assumed I'd have to wire it up the way it is and I can figure that out after.

I would use that balance tube to either measure the "average" manifold pressure with the MAP sensor, with an Idle Air Control valve as you suggested. Either one or both is a good use.

I am getting old and forgetful. So I don't remember which cylinder was #1. I have a PDF copy of the factory workshop manual. Send me an email (my address can be found on our website https://veracitydata.com ), and I will send you a copy.

perfect, thanks for the help.

i think i'll try using them to verify the combo TMap sensor is working correctly and then try using them with an idle air valve.

one question that is messing me up, i'm not sure if i'm powering the ECU up correctly with the line i'm using from the PDM.

i'm not sure if it should be using the switched 12 volt that is capped at 1 amp (but clean voltage they say) or the VMAIN1 which is triggered with the ground MRD signal. i'm not sure how to do that with a key switch or where it would come from to turn on the ECU.

random question for tuning, i bought one wideband but noticed there are two bungs, one for each cylinder.

can i just use one bung and trim one cylinder at a time? or just base the tune on one cylinder?

or do i need 2 widebands to tune both cylinders at the same time?

Many cars with dual exhausts have been setup / tuned with only a single wideband O2 sensor. Of course if you can provide two, and the ECU can do either individual cylinder or bank trims, then that could be the best possible solution.

new question, i have a oem oil pressure switch that is 1 wire. (i think it shorts to ground with pressure and fails open without pressure)

would you use that on an analog input or a digital one? i'm not really sure how to use it, everything i read is for using analog inputs for oil pressure sensors.

i have a flex fuel input that i don't plan on using, so i'm not sure if i could utilize it for something else.

I would probably replace the oil pressure switch with a real oil pressure sensor, so I could monitor the oil pressure.

If you want to use the existing switch, then it can likely be hooked to either a digital or analog voltage input -- depending on what you have available, and at least logged, but possibly configured to create an alarm or turn on a "check engine light"(CEL) (aka Malfunction Indicator Light, or MIL).

BTW - you can determine the switch operation, by testing for continuity to ground with the engine stopped. That is your "low oil pressure" condition.

i've been reading the MS3Pro manual, getting ready for the initial setup while i finish up the wiring.

i understand i will be running solely off the OEM crank trigger wheel (1 missing tooth) with no cam input.

which means i'll be running semi-sequential or batch injection i guess (which i understand is pretty normal)

then for ignition, i guess i'm running "wasted COP" spark on each cylinder? (fires every 360 deg at TDC?)

i'm going to use a single ignition signal wire per cylinder and split it to the dual spark plugs per cylinder.

so now i'm just trying to wrap my head around the timing stuff to input, is this right:

1st tooth's offset angle from cylinder #1 TDC (compression stroke, valves closed)

i think this engine turns counter-clockwise based on what i read in the repair manual. (so counting in this direction)

then i need to input the correct odd-fire phasing?

is this me turning the engine until the other cylinder is at TDC (compression stroke, valves closed)

recording this crank angle difference, then turning more until cylinder #1 is at TDC again (compression stroke, valves closed) recording the difference?

from i understand this is the whole "bang-bang-pause" firing.

will have to verify, but google is telling me it should be (couldn't actually find this in the repair manual):

0 deg - 1st cylinder fires

75 deg later - 2nd cylinder fires

645 deg later - 1st cylinder fires

seems right since it adds up to 720 deg i think.