Crank Pulley / Harmonic Damper Installation Advice Requested (SR20DET GTiR)

Hi, I'm trying to install a new crank pulley / harmonic damper. This is on a nissan pulsar GTiR SR20DET.

The damper is https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-sr20-crank-trigger-kit/ to give me a crank angle sensor for a Link G4x ecu installation.

The factory damper wasn't necessarily broken, just needed to be replaced to gain the crank angle sensor. Removal of the factor damper was easy with an appropriate removal tool, in fact the effort required to pull the damper off was surprisingly light. Of course the GTiR SR20DET has 2 off M6 threads for removal and the kit only had M8 bolts...

So how to reinstall? Google searches indicate that the crank bolt thread is M16x1.5 and harmonic damper install tools don't seem to include this thread.

The ross damper is deliberately toleranced to the small size range of the factory cranks with the suggestion that if it needs to be enlarged to use a flex-hone and not a rigid shoe hone tool. I only have vernier calipers, I don't have a micrometer but I do have a couple of telescopic bore gauges and ID of the ross damper appears to me as the the same as the factory damper.

Some googling suggest heating up the damper to no more then 200 deg (not sure if that is C or F, think it was a US site so likely F). I'm just scared to only partially getting the damper on before it cools down and locks onto the crank.

At what point do you put the woodruff key in?

If you do it at the start to ensure that the key and the slot is aligned then you run the risk of pushing the key inward and damaging something.

If you put in part way how to you keep the crank slot and damper slot aligned to that you can install the key?

and how to you push the key in?

thanks

You don't want a shrink fit, you want a close tolerance fit. Skip the heat, and hone it to size as suggested. You can use the actual crank to verify the size, or borrow some better tools (bore gauge, micrometer for crank diameter).

As for the woodruf key, I would simply align the key with front of the pulley, and push the pulley and key together to onto the crank.

Thanks David. I wasn't too happy with the shrink fit + the wife would not be impressed me using the oven like that....

It's tempting to get a micrometer set, just not sure how much I am willing to spend and if the cheaper sets are any good or are simply in-accurate.

The crank has the circular slot for the woodruf key so I would need to put the key in, and then carefully align the pulley over the key.

Can the woodruf key "grap" and rotate out of the slot as you tighten the pulley up? Is this a valid concern and if so how do you protect against it? put some anti-sieze on the pulley slot?

If the crank has a circular slot key slot, then it can't be pushed out as the pulley is installed. If it starts to rotate before the edge of the pulley is centered over the slot (once there it can't rotate any further)., you can just tap it down (pin punch or large screwdriver) to rotate it into the normal position. Once you start putting it on, you'll find it's really very easy, and nothing to be concerned about as long as the slots are the correct dimensions.