Mounting block to engine stand

Am I to use the transmission bolts to mount the block to the engine stand? I’m reading conflicting information? Thanks Sarah.

Hello Sarah

I would recommend that you mount the engine block turned 90 degrees. This means you can also measure the crankshaft bearingsa without any problems.

The measurement of the cylinders will also be more accurate.

Depending on the engine, you don't put as much pressure on your engine stand

Simon

That is normal practice, Sarah, or rather the bellhousing bolt holes and the correct length bolts that ensure full engagement, as some engine stands require longer bolts. If the bolts are too long, and bottom out, just use washers under the bolt head(s) to take up the clearance. What you DO want to avoid is having too little a thread engagement as it's possible to strip the threads, or pull out the bolts, if there's only a few threads holding the engine.

One trick is to get a length of threaded rod, of the correct diameter and thread, and cut it into, say, 100mm lengths (maybe longer if you have the back clearance, as it will allow washers/spacers to be used to move the block further "out" if needed). Clean up the cut ends s and thread them fully into the block bellhousing holes you're using, and then tighten it down with nuts on the back of the stand's 'arms'.

There are some stands that are designed/intended to bolt onto the engine mount boss'/ bolt holes, as Simon suggested, but these usually have an engine-specific plate that is used to bolt to the engine and slip into the stand.

There are pro's and con's with each type, so don't stress it.

Hi Sarah,

I'm guessing you have already done this, but I would just suggest if you do need to buy longer bolts (I had to) make sure they are 8.8 grade steel.

Regards,

Henrik Morsing

8.8 refers to metric rating, grade 5 imperial, IIRC - the point being if it's an imperial thread engine 8.8 fasteners are NOT the right option.

Good advice if it is a metric engine, though.