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Would have like to be at this one live but the joys of having to work.
How you you go about over coming a high current draw fan on initial start up but then only needs 1-1.5% DC when its up to speed? I have a 16" fan that when switched almost stalls the car but when it turns off the idle only jumps up 90 rpm. Fan step is set to 1.5% should i just increase the Fan step and let the closed loop pull it back down?
Once I cleaned the spark plugs it worked as it should. Having large injectors idling in the non linear area is not fun to get a happy consistent idle.
In some situations you're going to need to accept a bit of a compromise. If I had to choose between stalling and having the idle speed jump up a little high, I'd always choose the high idle. It should only be momentary before the closed loop pulls it back in line and you could also use a very aggressive idle ignition control to help.
After more playing I setup the idle ignition table as 3d using fan status on the axis, using more ignition angle helped. One day I'll look at getting a PWM controller for the fan. That way I can slowly ramp the load up and down.
After a lot of head scratching trying to improve the idle i looked at a PWM option. Come across the below. Works like a charm, idle is so smooth only way you know the fan has started is because of the noise.
RS Stock No.418-3610
Glad you got a solution to your idle problems. Out of interest are you using the fan step up to increase the idle position when the fan switches in and out?
Yeah the more I increased the fan step the higher the idle would flare up after the low dip. When I run the motor without the alternator belt and using another car as the alternator feed the rpm was stable. The Spal fan on initial start-up draws over 100 amps. With all the others electrics the alternator must of been stalling the motor.