3D Modeling & CAD for Motorsport: Step 5 - Post Processing
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Step 5 - Post Processing
06.59
| 00:00 | - With our design modelled, analysed and proven using a prototype, we're finally ready for manufacturing. |
| 00:06 | There are a few options for manufacturing our design but the intention was always to have this part laser cut and that's guided some of our decisions up to this point so that's what we'll be moving forward with. |
| 00:19 | Once the 3D cutting has been complete by the laser cutter, we'll be able to make the bends manually using a sheet metal folder in the workshop, although to be clear, this part is simple and thin enough to make the bends in a regular bench vice if need be. |
| 00:35 | We'll be sending the manufacturer DXF files for this design and they'll complete any of the associated cam work to cut the flat parts. |
| 00:43 | Since our design has some details that need to be etched rather than cut, we'll also provide a technical drawing just for clarity. |
| 00:53 | So let's get started. |
| 00:54 | First we need to create a flat pattern which we already did in the previous step for our cardboard prototype. |
| 01:01 | This is a simple process of activating each sheet metal component then opening the create flat pattern tool from the sheet metal toolbar and then selecting the stationary face. |
| 01:13 | The large horizontal surface will work best for this example. |
| 01:18 | Under the bodies tab in the browser, we'll choose to hide the bend lines and extents and then use the export as DXF function to save the file onto our computer. |
| 01:28 | After this, we can select finish flat pattern to close the flat pattern tool. |
| 01:34 | If you're working with the free version of Fusion 360, this may not be so simple as you might not have the ability to export DXFs from flat patterns or from drawings. |
| 01:47 | However, you can usually export a DXF file from a sketch. |
| 01:51 | For a formed part like this with flanges, this process would involve using the unfold function under the modify tab, creating a sketch and projecting the flat pattern onto that profile, and then right clicking the sketch in the browser and selecting save as DXF. |
| 02:09 | Next we can make a technical drawing so that the manufacturer who's laser cutting the parts can understand the critical informations like key dimensions, overall size of the part and of course that the logo needs to be etched. |
| 02:24 | Generally a technical drawing for a sheet metal part will usually have the key critical dimensions for the final formed part on one sheet with the flat patter on another sheet showing the bend line positions, directions and angles. |
| 02:39 | Obviously, since we're bending the part ourselves, the laser cutter won't need any of this information so we'll make our drawing a little bit different. |
| 02:47 | Let's start by clicking the workspace drop down menu and making a new drawing from our design. |
| 02:54 | In the first popup under the contents tab, we'll choose select and then select our component for the top of the battery box with the representation as flat pattern. |
| 03:06 | Creating a new drawing from our sheet metal part drawing template we made during the sheet metal section of the course. |
| 03:13 | We'll delete the current drawings of the folder part because as we discussed, we don't need them for this project. |
| 03:20 | We then create another base view, setting the reference to the flat pattern of our box top component. |
| 03:27 | The orientation can stay as front and the scale at one half but we'll deselect the bend extents preference to keep things clear as we don't need to see these. |
| 03:39 | We'll also add a projected view to the side of our base view and then dimension this to show the thickness of the sheet metal. |
| 03:46 | We can also dimension the height on the side view as well as the base view with the overall width. |
| 03:53 | The only other dimensions that are really critical at this stage are the hole diameters, so let's dimension the holes and slots. |
| 04:02 | For slots, I like to show the overall width and height. |
| 04:06 | Although tolerances are important, we've allowed for some variation in our design and the accuracy of the parts will be determined by the CNC laser cutting machine which should be very accurate anyway. |
| 04:19 | So for simplicity and clarity's sake, we'll leave tolerances off this drawing. |
| 04:24 | Next up is the notes. |
| 04:27 | We're going to need two leader notes for this drawing, one attached to the logo saying logo to be etched, not cut, and the other attached to the bend lines saying bend lines, don't cut or bend. |
| 04:40 | Which should go without saying in this case but it's best to be sure. |
| 04:44 | The last thing to do on this drawing is add some details regarding the material. |
| 04:48 | For this, we'll use a material specification table, showing the material as aluminium, a thickness of 2 mm and a grade of 5052 or similar which should be suitable for our application. |
| 05:02 | We can also right click on the second sheet in the bottom left hand corner at this stage and delete it since it's not needed. |
| 05:10 | Finally after saving our drawing file we can export it as a PDF, repeating the same process with our box base component. |
| 05:19 | Now we're ready to send the PDFs and DXFs to the manufacturer to be laser cut. |
| 05:25 | With the parts returned from the laser cutter, it's worth doing some visual checks and also taking a few measurements to make sure we're happy with the product before starting to work with it. |
| 05:36 | It's also good to weigh the part and note how this compares to the value from our CAD software. |
| 05:42 | Now we're ready to make our bends, following the order we defined in our cardboard prototype. |
| 05:48 | All bends in this case are 90°, we just need to be careful we make them in the correct direction. |
| 05:56 | Luckily, we were smart enough to add features to locate our bend lines when designing the part so we don't need to worry about measuring. |
| 06:04 | Finally we can fit it into the car and use some foam tape on the side of the battery or the inside of the box and in the case of the Honda City, we also used M6 rubber isolators to space the base off the floor pan. |
| 06:19 | At this point we can hopefully say that we're done and we've successfully made our battery box. |
| 06:25 | But if there were any modifications you had to make, then make sure to update your CAD file while it's still fresh in your mind just in case you need to use it again in the future. |
| 06:36 | I'd recommend testing it, even by just applying some force by hand so you're confident it's up to the task, also be sure to check and retighten the hardware after some use. |
| 06:48 | If you've followed along with this example and made something similar for your own car, we'd love to see it, so feel free to post it in our member's forum. |
