How to Degree a Cam: Step 6: Lock Up Cam Wheel
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Step 6: Lock Up Cam Wheel
01.19
| 00:00 | - Step 6 involves removing our dial indicator from the cylinder head as well as the steel plate. |
| 00:05 | We can also remove the degree wheel and pointer from the front of the engine. |
| 00:10 | Now that we're done with timing changes, we want to remove the cam sprocket bolts and apply a small amount of loctite to the threads before reinstalling them and torquing them to GM specifications. |
| 00:20 | From here it's simply a process of refitting the push rods and rockers to the heads, the oil pump, pickup and sump and the timing cover, water pump and other ancillary components to the front of the engine. |
| 00:32 | You do need to be mindful of the fact that some timing covers will foul on the double row timing chain and may require some minor clearancing before fitting. |
| 00:40 | Since the LS timing cover is also not dowelled to the block, it's important to ensure that the cover is flush to the two sump rails of the engine block on each side before tightening it down. |
| 00:52 | This will help ensure that you don't end up with an oil leak from the sump. |
| 00:55 | It should go without saying, however a cam swap like this is going to necessitate tuning changes in order to ensure that you get the best out of the cam package as well as to ensure that your engine is running safely. |
| 01:08 | If you've got any questions on any aspect of this worked example, please ask them in the forum and I'll be happy to answer them there. |
