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Ford F150 4x4 with 521cu

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1984 Ford F150, Regular cab, short bed, 4x4.

Transmission: C6 (1,200hp version built by Broader in Texas) Manual valve body, fully rollerized, transbrake, 4R100 gear set AKA: Wide ratio

Gear Box: Billet 10" straight thru design

Engine: 8.5L (521cu) Ford Racing rotating assembly - Ported SCJ aluminum heads - Ported Ford Motorsports 4500 series intake manifold - Custom grind Solid roller Camshaft - Crower SS rocker arms - Trend Push Rods - Jomar Stud girdle - Quick Fuel QFX-4700 1050 carburetor

Made 668hp @ 5600rpm & 676ftlb @ 4700rpm (421hp & 597ftlb at 3700rpm) on 91 octane pump gas during run in on the engine dyno. There is more power left in the engine with tuning. We don't really see putting a big effort on tuning a engine on a dyno, just want to make sure the rings seat and everything is happy.

Old picture

I don't know if anyone can see the pictures I have shared as I find it peculiar that I have had zero interaction on this forum.

Eventually I want to run fuel injection but the goal right now is just to get the vehicle running. But, I have been looking into gauges and data logging. I hope to find a system that is all inclusive, utilizing a CAN bus system. The Haltech Elite VMS ECU looks like very interesting. Especially the fact it will allow me far more control over the ignition. Mega Squirt could be used in this application as well. PDM control would be a plus as well without out getting into professional systems and the cost associated with those systems.

Some might have noticed that I started a build thread back in 2018 but life happens. (I can't believe I have been a member for two years!) I also had a Polaris Ranger 800 project. I finished that project but didn't take any pictures and decided once it was running like new I would focus on the Big Block Ford F15 truck.

A little progress:

T-case crossmember required a little clearance work to clear the Transmission pan. Then I attached a picture of the remote oil filter final location and completion.

I did a little reading on the PDM modules and really interested. Down side appears to be cost. My next items on the list to install; MSD 6al2 box, coil, relocate battery, starter solenoid, star point grounding circuit, starter & alternator wiring, Throttle linkage assembly, transmission cooler and measure for driveshafts.

[img="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j3B9p6YZqLJvkzLpozPQx-T78RZm9Bm7hnkF0s-e_I8-pmDCgCD3Yx8te4lEm7QcZrgW-m_-4Kmnj2urFeHKpzzWMwRf7s7T_mk4Tzg1FETXfyJhYIWNpOQLKgEL6dyG1Uy1EbHLDEM9a0Qo-zUfiCtETHYlgWqlWpctlszn4aIs4gduODfhkI4SNi-Yy-bOqacQd7QNxYHEOlb0poup-c4VWHdPG7qshFpEi_4F9Z36DIQu_o3kVcB5jrG5UDudwnfrfPMAMsXIH2HWZkAyniqjU467mkJblz4xn827UaozSJgz3DrrKIm5BAP1BcegbykjtdXB2Zy4-xMGiaW-mvDamiIHvdTpwd7QVpIqeBL1-GzjpscT5VlO7QOaPPeMkUnSf-SLppIkKdVOyz8Im71kkhSYn1wX4kJ3gkaOhk1BbhPlJNs_v0Gh2wXiLFvSIBUGk0Pklpb2AzD2BkejEOSh1LPt_qivHViWMzpxV7xCrJYQL3u6jAI6afQ7Dtd5UlqXOmNyX6bFKSdHQ_71WDonPFMlO_EGRpX27rZ17Z2muQ7UKVEvrbPDrjEe4rJh-4J-hW_nLjFMGk8RlwbjHrW33UmpqezleEyj4oyvqJVcPWNL2N0ZjJx0hLq_28KW4yJy9whNcLh2rqBnZ-MT8Y3OfegnmNFsdKdY4o5CahiUC8zsR3PGtqLELwo=w2820-h2114-no?authuser=0https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A_CCvLaqdG39N7oSa2foFD2h2yNk_S_Ltjye_tv2-9Jo2mEum7dLaijnwnjcnHZJZF5AGxfEMT2qvC5WL_0EQHHz5OtqnsUoo8xJ_4qCIowBSBED4aSVqiSQ3vPdU71ykZWymlVJfPpNVf1i0cOL8H5YB8e19Hw5PmgQbytudebv4L-7tIIb807K4U_0krIv0f3mWTBaNo1FbiN4p97_cN7Vqc-ZXk4yX4ujSphxdrlFlED9xm8gb2yNH1iA5Bss121cYJ-xbkHTr6L6-ipD7kLHwU5GrSAvxVYYCLkhXSN-bTF-Jt4b5g4HRJQkus7x_ceLWa5QkDqx_0nJoKw55TmC1jRlxn4o0pYEuvKoP9eHZvIaVYO0GZ_RC4mdzz0gOTt4qxMZ1bNHI0gZrSfgdL9l42qnpM3dt_a_q1n1Lb2kjZvXWGkFbLfURiQEGGZE2nSAGs2TSyl2HiGjc4goHa20G2EfBWIpko37R3i4JsnDGUiL0r9MEgSPB5uGrV1Dkw65KXZbnrj9-_ljbzh-dr4WVYn6bGQuulzVbNx-sD9rVvIVRunQVWrOLG1Cqib10yJXq-U9_WMI0dvt2GaNPAeu3JsZ93xmeHeNjlPb6trK1xfHhAh185rJSddFMmoWJH0ertjEPYu0x6FxDJ5ibdr9PJUYEt1cNyylB-G86OpjPbmmd9wWYtYD7sw=w2820-h2114-no?authuser=0" alt=""]

WOW still no comments.

I have purchased a Haltech Elite VMS T + and IC-7 Dash the VMS T+ is backordered so there is no telling if I will ever receive the parts or not. If it goes over a month I will probably cancel my order and go with something local in the States.

For the time being I will start the truck with the MSD digital 6al2 ignition. I don't want to purchase the Haltech coils if the backorder VMS T never comes in. In the mean time I'm going to be studying the HP academy Timing curriculum.

Sorry, didn't have response rights back then.

The LIMA 385 series engines have a LOT of potential, and are often overlooked as a performance option, so a good choice!

A little surprised at the use of the SCJ heads as they're usually used for top end airflow, even before porting, but assume they were chosen because of the engine capacity - I don't see a listing for a Ford Motorsport 521 but, while they're fitted to the 572, that's around a 10% larger engine? Same thing with the manifold and carbie, a 1050 CFM - that's a LOT of airflow potential and the Ford 572 has an 870!

For the rpm range, and for good mid-range response and even peak power, they're big - are you planning on turning it much higher? If the engine is mechanically built for it, your parts suggest a power, and rpm, peak closer to 7k where the breathing will be more effective?

As it is, looks like you're going to sort out the ignition side before, maybe, swapping out the carb' for a throttle body which should also improve lower and part throttle response?

Anyway, should be a nice runner - forgot to ask what you intend using the vehicle for, as that will have affected your planning for the build.

I can turn more rpms with a cam and valve spring change. (I didn't want to constantly checking valve lash and valve springs.) It has a lot of room to grow.

Can no one see the pictures I have attached? The first picture is of my dyno sheet. I haven't seen any smaller head make that much torque along with those HP numbers in a naturally aspirated engine.

Once I get the VMS T connected and tuned I can use the torque management system and nitrous control going.

The crankshaft and rods was a Ford Motorsport kit only. (I can't remember what pistons it has, I think Diamonds) I believe they quit making the kit in the 90's. Bought the kit from a friend that has been a Ford dealer for a long time.

I really would have figured someone would have been interested in the build. I will start coming around more once I get the Haltech installed. Really wish ya'll could see the pictures.

Pictures don't show up as pictures, one needs to right click them and open separately - least ways on FF. I haven't seen ANY actual pictures in threads, so not sure if it's possible - certainly the usual methods don't seem to work.

Clicking on both sets of three do bring them up, though. The engine certainly is something of a torque monster, no less than 577lbs.ft from 3500 to 6000!

I did find the Ford Motorsport kit, bit surprised it is described as a cast, rather than forged, crank, so might be rpm limited because of that? But the FORD nodular cranks are pretty damn strong - might pay to check?

I agree, would have thought there would be more interest, but seems to be mostly 4 or 6 cylinder, and rotary, folks with the occasional LS/LT person.

There are several sources for a "521" stroker kit, but the genuine FORD, as you have, is part number "M-6013-B514", and if you google it it will give you a fair bit of information on what is provided and recommendations.

The crankshaft is a nodular iron unit. We have had a lot of success with the nodular iron units compared to the ductile iron style. Of course I will have to stay on top of the tune-up. I have seen people destroy forged & billet crankshafts from over confidence in the rotating assembly and slacking off in their tune. The quality in machine work also plays a major role.

FYI, I am kind of a 385 series nerd. I use to run the 460ford & 429-460ford forums back in the 2000's. I have a lot of friends that participate in the "Engine Masters" contest. (I know one man that ran a factory ductile iron crankshaft in a nitromethane land speed car.)

This is why I want to use the Haltech VMS T, that way I can have complete control over the ignition. I am currently trying to decide which ignition parts to run.

1. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-130313-v8-ford-small-big-block-8-x-individual/

2. https://innovatorswest.com/1034-BBF-Sensor-Bracket.html

3. https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/distributors/cam_sync/parts/85211

4. I want to see in they can make one of these for my damper. https://innovatorswest.com/1097-12-BBC-Crank-Trigger-Wheel.html

My question is: I have read that the magnetic style Hall sensor isn't the most accurate. If I am going to spin the money I want a the most accurate. This is a steel 8" diameter 36-1 wheel.


Which sensor would be the most accurate, it uses a 3/4-16UNC threaded sensor and I'm not seeing one that size so I will have to use an adapter. I know I want a digital output just not 100% on which one. Everyone seems to call them all "Hall" sensors.

Hahaha, you should be giving lessons to the rest of us - did you see the post by the chap with the 460 in a F350 motorhome? You would be much better to offer advice than me.

I may be mis-remembering, but I think I came across an article a while back that recommended the missing tooth be half height, rather than completely removed, due to it giving a better signal. If I remember, I'll have a search to double check that. In the meantime, this may be of interest - https://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Hall_sensor/hall_sensor_trigger.htm

Ah, not the one I was looking for, but this should be some good information for you - note Chapter 5 - sensing.honeywell.com>hallbook Don't know if that will work as a link, but perhaps as a GOOGLE search?

I try to stay open minded and continue to learn from others. I am extremely thankful for those professionals that took the time with me and shared their knowledge. We use to have a Tech seminar and invite professionals to share their knowledge. Jon Kaase was one of the more commonly known names. Not that anyone was of lesser value. Jon had just been in the spot light from his IHRA mountain motors. We was just a big family that enjoyed building engines.

I am curious to see if this engine is knock limited. Is it best to put the sensor on the aluminum head or the iron block. I would guess the cylinder head being the camshaft is in the block with this engine model. I don’t know if it would make a difference?

Agreed, as I get old(er) I am struck more and more that the more I learn, the more there is to learn - and sometimes un-learn ;-).

In the previous post, 'honeywell' should be one word, word-wrap may have added a hyphen.

All knock sensors I'm aware of have been block mounted, the sound/vibration is very distinct and won't be confused with valve train, or other, operation. You may find some variations of that engine, in late model form, that use the sensor(s) and I would just use the same location.

Thank you for your assistance.

I try to explain to the younger generation that they can learn a lot from the old goats. I also try to convince the ole goats to find someone that has a real love for the hobby to pass on their knowledge.

Yeah, you can tell them we already made the mistakes they're going to make, but they go ahead and make them anyway...

Enjoyed the links, thank you!

(Side thought;

I wondered why my wifes direct inject vehicle was so slow to start after a key cycle. Yet when the engine does a "auto stop" it can simply fire a injector and spark, cranks before your foot leave the pedal. After a Key cycle the ecu has to figure out where it's at because the engine could have rotated since last shutdown. But a "autostop" has the benefit of knowing the brake is applied and told to start the instant a decrease in pressure is seen. Engineers are capable of demanding the engine to crank before the vehicle might do something that rotates the engine. I can see starting issues being a headache in the future depending on how each manufacture writes their safety protocols. If it was me writing the protocols, I would commend the starter to engage if there is any doubt in engine rotation angle. (I wonder if they do that) That would be something interesting to learn.

Took the truck to the chassis shop today! The plan is to get a CM roll cage, dual brake master cylinders, sheetmetal work, air box that feeds thru the windshield cowl.

The chassis shop didn't seem pleased that I went with Haltech. Supposedly in the southern states here in the USA, there is only one person that can trouble shoot. Every body uses Holley or Fuel Tech and this shop pushes Holley. According to the shop Haltech is to difficult to figure out compared to Holley? I hope I don't regret this... The VMC T harness is back ordered and it might never come in!! LoL

I wonder if Haltech would be willing to support me if I become a "Haltech" Tuner?

I'm back, had to take a small vacation and all of my Haltech parts arrived, very relieved to get everything!

I have decided to hold off on the roll cage as I intend for this to be a street truck.

Heck, you might be lucky and find a 'tuner' who is actually interested in learning something new - especially as market share will increase and so will market demand for someone who understands and can tune with the product.

Re: the roll cage, depends how much is required to be done to the truck, but if I were going to run it hard, or do some edgier off-road work, I'd seriously consider the safety benefits - 'just in case'. But if you're going to use it more as a work truck, I can see the reluctance as it would be over-kill.

My hope is that I can use my previous engine building, carburetor tuning and the HP Academy course I can tune myself. If I’m any good maybe I can do it for others.

I received all of the Haltech Equipment a couple of weeks ago (pic included)

Cool - time for an unpack video ...

I’d love to..... never done that before. I’ve always taken pictures with posted narrations in the forums. What videos I have made, I have never spoken in.

This was a video I made of a truck running a short block I had built. (I will honestly try make something I won’t be embarrassed of!)


Iron head, vacuum class engine (18 inches at idle)

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