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Hello Andre i have a customer with with a link storm+ ecu with a nissan sr20det i have install the ecu and and tune the car a wile back .and always notice
a cut or misfire be4 the engine rev limit , car have factory CAS ,and still today the car have the the issue that i need to trouble shoot.
have look in the ecu log on a dyno pull have notice that the engine never reach the limit @ 8000rpm plus gap are @ 0.016 and been using aem smart coil .i have had a log safe but have notice with the latest firmware i have lost the logs.any help will be appreciate.
Link ECU's introduce their limits before they actually reach what they are set to by a large margin, if you go into reduce the control range it should get closer to the target rev limit.
Hello Chris the rpm limit advance control range is set to off,but still when that problem is present after 7000rpm and in the log the rev limit don't show as active.
I will take an educated guess based on past experience that you may be suffering from triggering issues based on the stock Nissan CAS. These are notorious for giving trouble due to the exceptionally high tooth count - 180 per crank revolution. The problem is magnified if you modify the valve train with larger cams and heavier valve springs.
You should see this show up in your logs by a very erratic rpm trace at higher rpm. You also may notice trigger errors cycling at higher rpm.
Of course it is also possible that you simply have an ignition related misfire but I know from experience that trigger issues are a big problem with the Nissan CAS.
thanks fr reply Andre if the issue is relate to the nissan CAS what tooth pattern you recommend to use on the crank and witch cam sensor .
i had 2x other nissan also one with link Atom and a skyline Link extreme rb26 with cams with factory CAS with no issue.what do you think of the Aem 24+1 slot suit Nissan Cas.
If the engine is relatively standard I'd suggest the AEM trigger disc as its a low cost option that works pretty well - I actually had my own discs cut for the Nissan CAS a few years back that had a 24/1 pattern with varying success.
If you want to go to a crank trigger then your options are quite varied. Personally I like a 12 tooth crank disc with a single sync on the cam. You could equally use a missing tooth crank wheel such as a 24-1 or 24-2. This still needs a sync input but the actual sync position becomes less critical.
What I've found is that a stock or lightly modified Nissan SR/RB will work well with a low res trigger disc in the stock CAS. If you get serious with your cam profile or want to rev to 8-9000 rpm you are probably best to go to a crank trigger.