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I just had my engine build. Ej207. I followed the run in procedure from the engine building course. At about 120Km I decided to do a few fulls (3) first pull to about 6000 RPM second pull about 7000 RPM third pull red line 8000 RPM. No knock detected by knock sensor. Wast gate boost pressure about 14 psi. Car sounds like it soon bearing. Any clue as to what is happening here?
Bearings usually "spin" due to lack of oil flow and/or pressure. Have you pulled the sump and main caps off yet to check?
i have no clue what is going on with the engine as yet. i wrote that post while sitting in the car waiting for the tow truck to come after my enging failed. i don't even think am goin to go back into the engine again right now. car had a complete engine rebuild in january and anothere complete rebuild november. i quit for now.
I feel your pain.
Good day can some one make a good recommendation for a crank shift for a JDM EJ207 engine. (2.0L) stock block forge internals. Want to make about 500 Whp.
manley makes a crank
can buy 'spec c' crank which is nitride treated if i remember correctly...
The standard Subaru cranks are good for that sort of power, Prodrive ran standard cranks in the WRC cars for a long time.
thanks everybody for your imput. i still havent gone into the engine as yet to see what exactly is the problem and what parts are needed.
Are you re-building it yourself or you have someone who builds for you?
what engine management system are you running?
I have a mechanic. Using factory ECU. Tuning with romraider and EcuFlash.
It sounds like a full assessment of the failure mode would be the first place to start. It worries me that you mention you've had two consecutive failures from this engine. One of the most common mistakes I see people make with bearing related engine failures is reusing a contaminated oil cooler. On the Subaru engine this is a water/oil heat exchanger in stock form and it's tempting to reuse it. I don't believe it's possible to fully clean these units of all the bearing debris and hence they can then distribute bearing material through your freshly rebuilt engine causing premature failure. Obviously I've got no idea if that's your issue but I raise it as it's very common.
GM. My car never spon being before. I just rebuild it because I was throwing alot of boost (25 PSI) at it and wasnt making any power ( am new to tuning) and I dont think it was a tuning issue. I thought it was mechanical. It was a good call because when the engine was stripped down the mechanic found several me mechanical problems. After the engine was rebuild is the first time it spon bearings. I will change the oil cooler when I rebuild this time.
Thanks for your input
It could be RPM related. I learnt the hard way that the oil is quite slow to return from the heads so if you lift the rev limit to 8000 you can actually pump the sump dry on a hard pull in a straight line. This is even more likely to happen if you have fitted a higher flow oil pump during your build.
If you want to keep the high rpm, either go dry sump or increase the oil capacity with a larger sump and an accusump maybe