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Practical Wiring - Professional Motorsport: Step 5 - Following the Construction Plan

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Step 5 - Following the Construction Plan

1.20.07

00:00 - Right, with all of our planning and documentation now out of the way, it's time to actually get stuck in and start the construction of this harness.
00:07 Of course, to do this we're simply going to be following the construction plan that we worked through in the last step.
00:14 Let's have a quick look at that now and we can see that our very first step here is to prep our core wiring from the bulkhead outwards.
00:22 And then we're going to be pinning that into the bulkhead connector.
00:25 There is a small complexity here in how we're going to have to deal with this.
00:29 Let's just bring in our concentric twist plan here and we'll see why that's the case.
00:36 We can see here that our core consists of our 2 core shielded cable and this one is for our reference sensor and that runs the full length of our harness out to the ref sensor on the engine.
00:50 On our next layer we have 5 two core shielded cables consisting of our sync, our cam position bank 1 and 2 and our knock sensor bank 1 and 2 and then we're also doubling that up with our twisted pair for our CAN bus.
01:03 Now the reason we have this small complexity that I'm talking about here is that our shielded cables are actually shared, the shield drains for our ref and sync are shared.
01:15 Likewise for our cam position bank 1 and 2, these are shared and then finally out knock sensor bank 1 and 2, you'll recall that we did this in order to get away with using a 79 position autosport connector for our bulkhead.
01:28 So the complexity here, and it is a minor one, is that we do need to consider our ref and sync cables, even though they are in separate layers, we kind of need to consider and pre those at the same time because of this shared shield.
01:42 While we are on these two pages here, let's just have a look at another little detail here that I just want to point out.
01:51 And that is the length of our cables and how we can mark them.
01:56 So to the right here I've just listed in millimetres the length of these cables.
02:00 This simply comes from our branching diagram, I've added a 20% margin here for our concentric twist.
02:07 Always easiest to come up a little bit longer than we need to be and then we can trim to our finished length.
02:13 And it's really easy to forget that that concentric twisting process does require a little bit of additional length.
02:20 Likewise I've also made some match numbers or mark numbers here and I'm just going to mark these with a sharpie on the outer sheathing of our cables and this is just going to let me very quickly identify these, that sharpie is permanent so it's not going to rub off.
02:36 Alternative of marking these cables would be to use coloured ident heatshrink which we'll be doing for some of our other elements.
02:45 But in this case, this is a very simple process.
02:47 It's also not too strictly necessary to go any further than this because we're essentially going to be marking these and straight away pinning them out.
02:55 Alright let's just have a quick look at the elements that I am going to be using here so we know what we are going to end up looking like with our finished cable and to speed this process up for our next layer I've actually gone ahead and completed our knock sensor wiring so let's look at this under our overhead.
03:15 And we've got our two twisted pair shielded cables and this is all looking a little bit messy here at this junction.
03:22 What I've done is used solder sleeves here, both of the solder sleeves that I've used on these shielded cables have a black and white drain wire, 22 gauge drain wire that is installed.
03:34 Now what we've obviously got to do is splice these together.
03:37 I've used a TE Connectivity closed barrel butt splice here and we have connected another drain wire.
03:45 You'll notice that what I've done here is all of these are coming into the same direction into that butt splice and this just allows us to essentially have some strain relief built in there.
03:56 Obviously the rest of them are already terminated into our contacts for our autosport connector.
04:02 Now don't worry, I have jumped ahead here just to speed this process up but we will go through exactly what's involved in getting to that stage now.
04:11 Alright let's start with our reference and our sync wiring.
04:15 I've already cut these to length which is really obviously a pretty straightforward process.
04:20 I've got a tape measure here that I have just taped to my bench.
04:24 We're going to be doing a lot of measuring and cutting for all of our conductors so it's always nice to just have this comfortably located there and we can confirm the length of each of our sections of wire.
04:38 So the one I've got here in front of me at the moment, let's look on our overhead and we can see we've got a match mark of 2 on both ends of this.
04:47 Obviously that is our second cable which is our synchronisation sensor.
04:51 Look at the other one here, we've got a single mark, making this of course our reference sensor.
04:58 So what we're going to do is get our sync cable out of the way for the moment.
05:02 Let's get started with preparing our reference sensor cable.
05:07 And what we want to do is begin by just stripping back some of the sheathing on the outside of this cable to reveal the shielded braid underneath.
05:16 And we want to allow a reasonable length here in order to have something we can work with, get our service loops and also when we are working with our autosport connector, we need to be mindful of where all of our splices or solder sleeves are going to be located.
05:33 We've got quite a bit going on behind the back of this connector and we want to make sure that everything's going to nicely fit within the boot.
05:42 Now in order to help, and we'll be using this as a reference as we go through, if we look at our overhead camera here, I have printed out a template and I've basically scaled this to suit our autosport connector.
05:55 So this just gives us a visual cue as to how much room we've actually got to work with where we are going to be comfortably protected or covered by the back of that heat moulded boot.
06:06 Alright so let's get started and we're going to get our razor blade here.
06:10 What we're going to do is just straighten out a section of our shielded cable and we're just going to score the outside of our sheathing with our razor blade here, you can use a knife of course as well, or instead of.
06:25 We don't need to cut too deeply here, we're just essentially scoring the outside of the sheathing and then by bending it backwards and forwards, little bit hard to see but that just breaks through that sheathing and we can now go ahead and cut down the length of the sheath as well, the length of the sheathing just to allow us to remove that and expose the braid underneath.
06:47 Again, not cutting too deep, we don't want to be cutting through the braid underneath that so a little bit of care is required.
06:57 Once we've got that sheathing just scored, should be able to pretty easily get through there with a fingernail and basically strip that off and now we've got our braid exposed underneath.
07:11 Now we do need to understand what we're trying to do here and we're going to have to cut back some of that braid.
07:17 And if we just get our little solder sleeve into location, we can see how that should sit.
07:24 So our solder sleeve that we've got here has a pre installed drain as I've mentioned.
07:28 Otherwise we can add our own drain and we want to essentially cut our braid back to approximately this location so that our little red band of solder is going to be nicely central over our braid.
07:38 One end of our solder sleeve will shrink down on that outer sheathing, the other will shrink down onto our two cores of our shielded cable there.
07:48 So what we're going to do is get that out of the way now and we can just gently push back on our braid there to expand it out and once we've done that, we can get in there very carefully with our flush cut pliers and we want to make sure that while we're doing this we do not cut the conductors within.
08:08 So a little bit of a process of just working our way around.
08:13 Care is always going to be helpful here.
08:16 And you'll see it's pretty easy to get to a situation where we can then extract or remove our braid.
08:26 Alright so at this stage with the majority of our braid removed, we can see we're still a little bit long which is always a good place to start.
08:34 What I'm going to do is just use those flush cuts to trim us down until we've got just the right amount of braid exposed so let's go and get that done.
08:41 Alright we've got our braid trimmed down here, just the right amount of braid exposed and if we get our solder sleeve alongside we can see that that's going to fit really nicely there with our solder band nicely located central on our braid, exactly what we want.
08:56 Before we move on, I will mention there's a couple of ways we can work with terminating this braid using a solder sleeve.
09:02 And the alternative is to essentially fold that braid back up over itself onto the sheath beneath.
09:11 Now the advantage of this is the sheathing is essentially semi rigid so it provides a little bit more mechanical strain relief by doing this.
09:18 The downside of it however is it does produce a little bit more additional bulk.
09:24 Because we've got a lot going on behind this autosport connector, I want to keep the bulk to an absolute minimum.
09:31 That's why we're using this technique.
09:33 One last consideration here is now we've cut our sheathing off, our conductors below do not obviously have that mark that I made so I'm just going to reintroduce that mark here just so that when we splice these together, we're going to know which is our ref and which is our sync.
09:52 And I've made those marks a little bit back from the ends because chances are we will be trimming these to size and then will be stripping them and terminating them to our socket for our autosport connector.
10:02 Alright let's get our solder sleeve into location now, we'll bring in our heat gun and we'll get that shrunk down.
10:18 Alright we've completed our ref cable there with our solder sleeve.
10:22 it is important when we're working with solder sleeves as well so ensure that we don't overheat the solder sleeve with our recovery but we also want to ensure that that solder band has properly melted and wet out through our braid as well as our drain wire.
10:38 What we're going to do now is repeat that process with our sync cable so let's get that done now.
10:45 OK at this point we've got the ref and sync cables both terminated with our shield drains.
10:50 So before we can go ahead and pin these out into our autosport connector we need to splice those two drain wires together.
10:58 So let's just go ahead and have a look at one I've prepared ahead of time.
11:03 This is for our two knock sensor cables which are essentially arranged the same way with the shield drain shared.
11:09 And what we can see here is I've got a closed barrel splice that's located here and that's joining our two shield drains together and we've gone ahead and covered that with some SCL that we've recovered down so essentially this is exactly what we are aiming to achieve with our ref and our sync cables.
11:28 At the moment you can see that the drains are much longer than they need to be and we need to give a little bit of thought about where our splice is going to be located.
11:37 Now we want to make sure that we've got enough room behind our heat moulded boot on the back of our autosport connector and we do have, as I've mentioned, a number of splices going on here so that all adds to the bulk.
11:52 Now what we're going to do is again essentially replicate what I've done here with our knock sensor wiring and we can see that the splice for our two drains is located reasonably close to our solder sleeves.
12:04 A consideration here, we do need to be attentive of and this is an easy mistake to make is that if we trim these drain wires back too far and this goes for essentially any wires where we do need to then strip the sheathing off, there is a limitation on how far we can strip that back or cut those wires back before we won't actually be able to get our wire stripper in there so that makes things a little bit tricky so always important to leave enough length for us to actually work with.
12:34 So what we're going to do here is go ahead, trim these down and we'll get the sheathing removed, the insulation removed I should say, using our wire strippers and we'll get those ready to install into our splice.
12:58 Alright we've got our drain wires cut down and our insulation stripped and just a point when we are doing this, we do want to strip a little bit more insulation for engagement into our butt splice here than we would for our contacts so in order to do this, just because we're only stripping 3 wires at this point, rather than resetting our little stop on our wire stripper, I've just moved that out of the way temporarily.
13:20 And if we just bring our splice into view here, we can see that basically got enough of the insulation stripped that we've got full engagement or at least really substantial engagement into that splice, we don't want to be having any risk of not getting full engagement there and a good crimp.
13:39 Now to complete this, obviously we also need a third wire to come out of that splice which is our drain wire, and for this I've just used a piece of that offcut that I stripped off before.
13:50 So what we're going to do now is get everything located into our splice and we will then crimp that together, so let's get that done.
14:04 OK we've got our 3 22 gauge drain wires nicely installed into our splice and just before we go ahead and crimp this, we want to take one last look and make sure that we do in fact have full engagement with all 3 of those wires, we do, we've got that splice just about butted up to the insulation, we've got a little bit of a gap there, we've got full engagement so let's go ahead and crimp that down.
14:33 Alright we've got our crimp completed, just a quick visual inspection of that, making sure that everything looks good.
14:39 I can see my conductors at the end of that splice, we're all looking like we've got good engagement there so that's going to be a nice reliable splice.
14:46 What we're going to do now is just cut a small section of SCL, 1/8th SCL would be a nice size to fit over that tightly.
14:54 And we're going to recover that down using our heat gun.
15:03 Alright let's have a look at our finished splice under our overhead and we can see we've got our SCL recovered down nicely.
15:09 It's important to make sure that it is extended past both ends of that closed barrel splice which it is.
15:16 I've just crimped down the open end of that so it's essentially glued into itself so that's sealed now electrically and environmentally.
15:24 You can obviously see here I've got the drain wire coming out of this, heading back in the direction of the cables and I've done this purposefully rather than trying to feed the wires in from both directions and this allows me to then loop this back around, essentially creating a service loop and strain relief.
15:40 So we're just going to essentially bend this back around on itself and head it back in the same direction as our other wires.
15:48 Right what we're going to do now is trim our conductors to length and we can terminated these with our sockets for our autosport connector.
15:58 Before we trim these though, let's just get our autosport connector quickly into shot for our overhead and we'll see what we're trying to achieve here.
16:05 And obviously what we want to do is make sure that we're locating both our splice as well as our solder sleeves well within the confines of the boot that's going to go over this connector once we're finished pinning it out.
16:18 Particularly with the centre conductors, we want to make sure that our splices and our solder sleeves are located a reasonable distance away from the body of the autosport connector, just giving us room to work then as we move outwards to the outer perimeter, all of our service loops are going to gradually move further down towards the connector.
16:39 Otherwise if we've got them all in the same location, we end up introducing an unecessary level of bulk which we obviously want to stay away from.
16:46 To help us with our decisions as well, what I've gone and done is printed out this little silhouette of our boot that we can use to help us locate, make sure that we aren't working outside of the amount of space that we've got.
17:02 Alright with an understanding now of what we're trying to do, we'll go ahead, trim these to length and then get the wire stripped off and we can terminate them.
17:17 Now we've got an understanding of what we're trying to achieve, we can introduce a service loop into these conductors, we can trim them to length then we'll strip off the insulation and we can terminate them to our autosport contacts, let's get that done now.
17:47 Now we can go ahead and crimp our sockets into location here.
17:51 And to do this we're going to be using our DMC crimp tool and we've got the correct positioner already selected here.
18:00 Remembering if you are not too sure, the connector, the autosport connector manual does tell you what crimp tool to use as well as what positioner to use for a particular pin or socket.
18:11 Now here we also need to make sure that our tensioner is set correctly, we're obviously using 22 gauge wire and we can see that that is on position 4, we've already got that pre set.
18:21 So what we're going to do is get one of our sockets here and we will choose our first conductor, get this into location.
18:33 Making sure that we don't have any stray strands of conductor sticking out.
18:37 Looking to make sure that our engagement is correct, remembering we're wanting around about 0.5 mm or thereabouts of free conductor before the insulation at the back of the contact, just making sure that we haven't got the contact butted hard up against the insulation.
18:52 Likewise, we want to make sure that our conductors are visible through the inspection hole in our contact.
18:58 Now we can just install the contact into our crimp tool, making sure we've got full engagement, crimp that down and our job is done.
19:07 Again when we first get started with this, we want to make sure that we visually inspect our crimp and make sure it's nice and sound.
19:15 It is, I'll go ahead an terminate the remaining conductors here.
19:29 OK so we've now got our ref and our sync cables terminated, our shield drain terminated and everything service looped and terminated in our autosport contact.
19:39 So we're actually ready to finally install these into our autosport connector.
19:44 So we'll take our autosport connector here, we've already had a quick look at this and I had noted that we have wrapped the outside of this in some blue masking tape just for the purposes of our construction here and why I've done this is it just protects it as we install it into our vice here, making sure that we don't end up marking up the outside surface.
20:04 Before I install it into the vice, we will just talk about the numbering strategy on the autosport connector.
20:10 And in particular you can see here on the outside perimeter we have this particular location, might be a little hard to see but this actually has the number 1 beside it.
20:20 So this is our position 1.
20:23 Basically we circle around here and we end up in the middle and our last position is this one here, pin 79.
20:30 As we already know for our concentric construction here, we are going to be working from the inside out.
20:35 So we're terminating starting at pin 79.
20:38 Another consideration with this though is that our wiring is actually exiting the autosport connector at a 90° angle so we want to make sure our orientation is correct.
20:48 Again looking at our overhead shot here, we know that our orientation is actually coming out this way, away from, or opposing this number 1 location so we have purposefully installed this in the bulkhead so that the number one location is facing directly up and our harness is coming directly down so what I'm going to do is install this into our little vice here and I'm just going to make sure that that is installed with the number 1 location off to my left, which means obviously our harness is going to be constructed working along the bench to my right here.
21:22 Obviously makes sense.
21:23 Let's grab our pin out documentation now and we can see where we're going to start with this autosport connector.
21:29 Alright so our first layer or our core I should say is pin 79 here which is our sensor 0 volt A, reference sensor minus, pin 78 is our reference plus, going to UDIG1, universal digital 1.
21:46 So those are white and blue and white and you'll remember I've marked these with the sharpie so these are numbers 1.
21:53 So what I'm going to do is we'll take our little insertion and removal tool, we'll get that located around that particular number 1 conductor, particularly here the reference minus, blue and white and we'll get this inserted into our location 79.
22:11 Alright so what I've done is I've inserted the conductor into our insertion tool here.
22:17 Made sure that the insertion tool is butted up against the shoulder of the contact and we'll just make sure that we have correctly chosen location 79, position 79, we have.
22:28 Coming in nice and square to the connector body here and I'll just push that down and we'll hear and even feel a slight positive click when that is located correctly.
22:38 It's always a good idea with these as well, just to double check a slight pull on that to make sure that it is positively engaged.
22:47 Now obviously at the moment, we've got a bit of a rat's nest here but we do have 5 conductors that we are going to be terminating so there's a little bit to work through here and I also will point out that with multiple conductors like this at the back of a shielded cable, sometimes it can get a little bit fussy actually getting our insertion tool correctly installed.
23:08 Sometimes it's actually easier to manually insert the conductor or the terminal into the autosport connector and then come in from behind with the insertion tool and complete the job so let's get the rest of our conductors installed.
23:43 Alright we've got our first two lots of conductors installed into our autosport connector and while at the moment, it's looking like a little bit of a bird's nest, that sort of is inevitable when we first get started but if I hold these into an approximate location, we can see that they're nicely spaced out from our autosport connector, that's important because it's going to make our job easier as we work our way out to the outside of that connector.
24:06 If all of these splices and service loops were located right down by the back of the autosport connector, it becomes much harder to locate everything and properly insert our contacts as we go through.
24:19 Now we've obviously checked off here our first step of our construction plan, let's get that into view on our overhead now.
24:29 So we have prepped our core wiring, we've pinned out our core wiring so we can tick these off.
24:34 We've also got a little bit of the way into our layer 1 prep here.
24:38 So what we want to do now is continue our layer 1 prep.
24:42 Now I have jumped ahead a little bit here.
24:44 We have got our layer 1 mostly prepared, I'll just get our other conductors into view now.
24:51 On my left here, we've got our 2 core shielded cable for our 2 knock sensors, 1 per bank, again exactly the same, we've terminated our shields together using solder sleeves and spliced those.
25:02 Everything is also stripped and terminated with our contacts.
25:06 Same again here for our 2 cam position sensors, bank per bank.
25:11 And then finally we also have our twisted pair for our CAN high and CAN low.
25:18 Again I've gone ahead and terminated those.
25:20 So what we're going to do now is work through our pin outs and if we get this back into view here, we can see at this stage we have terminated up to pin 75 or location 75 with our shield for our ref and our sync, plus our sync and our ref cables.
25:40 We're now working through our cam position and we're going to go ahead and do our entire second layer, or first layer that's going to go ontop of our core.
25:51 Looking at that, we've got our sync which we've already already talked about.
25:55 Cam position, knock sensor and CAN high and CAN low.
25:58 So again we'll service loop these and get them into location.
26:01 Again it's going to be a little bit messy at this stage but we'll be able to clean this up once we've got our first layer of concentric twist done so let's get those pinned out now.
27:36 OK at this stage we've got our core and our first layer for our twist all pinned out into our autosport connector.
27:44 As we go through this as well, particularly as we move through, it's always a good idea at the end of each layer just to double check your pin location vs the documentation and make sure that you haven't accidentally missed out a pin.
27:57 It's very easy to do on these autosport connectors so just nice to double check rather than getting to the end and find out that you're in the wrong location.
28:06 What we need to do now is essentially gather our wiring together and start building our first layer over that core.
28:15 And in order to do that, what I'm going to do is cable tie our wiring together.
28:19 We'll gather it up so we've got our reference sensor in the core and then I'm going to essentially support the wires in our vice here and I'll get our second vice installed supporting our core so that we can easily wrap our first layer around that.
28:36 Now that's not to say it's the only way to assemble a concentrically twisted harness.
28:40 Once you get familiar enough with the process, it's easy enough to do this freestyle on the workbench without the support of vices.
28:47 But at least as you're getting started, this definitely makes the task a little bit easier.
28:51 So we're going to get everything located in our vices now and I'm just going to protect our wiring at each end with a little bit of rag wrapped around it just so we don't end up damaging the actual conductors so let's get everything set up and ready to go.
29:05 OK we've got our harness here supported in our vice, we don't need too much pressure on it but just got a little bit of tension here just to make it a little bit easier to wrap or twist our first layer around that core.
29:18 What I've also done is made a mark here just using a sharpie.
29:22 So this is 260 mm from the centre of our connector, so this is to our branch point A.
29:28 So this is where we're going to be branching out so no need to really twist our harness much beyond that point.
29:35 What I'm going to do here is just start with maybe 3 of these shielded cables, we're not going to be able to twist them all in one go and we'll get those twisted out past our branch point and then we'll come back and add to that.
29:49 Obviously we've got our CAN twisted pair as well to add in there, that'll be the last of those conductors that I'll be adding to this.
29:56 As I go, I'll just be using a cable tie to support the harness as well as we demonstrated in the body of the course so let's go ahead and get this layer complete.
30:13 Alright we've got our first 3 conductors wrapped around our core and obviously at the moment, everything does look a little bit messy but as we add in our additional conductors, that's going to come out to our nice round cross section which will be perfect for proceeding or continuing our layers outwards from here.
30:31 I will just also mention something I omitted to say is that this layer is a right hand lay so it's important to understand which way we're going.
30:39 Obviously from here on we're going to be going backwards and forwards as each layer goes out from here, we'll be reversing the lay direction.
30:46 Alright let's get our next conductors into our layer.
31:00 At this point we've got all of our shielded cables twisted around our core and everything's sort of starting to take on that nice round circular cross section that we want for our subsequent layers.
31:10 We've got our CAN bus now, we're just going to basically find the gap, well you can actually see a section of it in here, find the gap where realistically we should be adding one more shielded twisted pair cable and we're going to run our CAN bus through there so let's get that done now.
31:32 OK we've got our first layer complete here and just one of the little tips that I want to add in here, if you are going to be using the cable tie technique that I personally use and find really easy to work with, you need to be super mindful when we do cut those cable ties off and this is something you're going to be doing a lot of.
31:50 It's very easy to inadvertently actually nick or cut through a conductor which can be devastating, particularly if you're a long way through your build.
31:58 What I find is the easiest way to avoid that is to always make sure we cut on the back of the cable tie and that just means that the side cutters that we're using are absolutely nowhere near the actual conductors.
32:10 Just a little tip that can save you a lot of pain and heartache.
32:14 What I'm going to do now is add some kapton tape to this at our branch point and we're going to them also add some kevlar lacing cord and we'll run this in the reverse lay direction to hold everything nicely together.
32:28 Let's get that done.
32:52 OK that's our first layer complete there, up to our branch point A.
32:55 We've got everything nicely twisted together and we have secured that using our lacing cord and our kapton tape.
33:03 Before we move on, let's just get this back out of our vice and we'll have a quick look at how everything's looking at the back of that connector.
33:12 So again at this stage, it's fairly early on and we can see it is still a little bit messy here in terms of how everything's located but importantly, if we get our little silhouette here, we can see that everything is going to nicely locate inside of that boot and as this progresses we're going to end up getting a bit of a pattern going with our service loops and everything will start falling into place.
33:39 So let's get the harness as it sits at the moment out of our way and we'll bring back in our construction plan and see where we sit.
33:50 Alright so we have now completed our layer 1, we're now moving onto preparing and twisting our layer 2.
33:57 There are a few complexities in this particular layer so I just wanted to stop for a moment and talk about those complexities and how I'm dealing with them.
34:05 The complexities mainly are due to the fact that there are a number of splices here for the likes of our sensor 5 volt and our sensor ground as well as some of our 12 volt supplies that are spliced for the likes of our injector power feeds.
34:20 Now the complexity with those splices is that in some instances, some of the outputs from the splice will go into the layer that we're now preparing, layer 2, while others will go into separate layers.
34:33 What this kind of does at this point is forces us to complete all of the splices which involve wires that will go into layer 2, obviously some of those wires then, the conductors that we're adding into those splices are going to be used later on when we get into our subsequent layers.
34:48 So it gets a little bit messy at this point but as long as we have a systematic approach, we can get through this just fine.
34:55 Now we already know that we do have our splice sheet in our Google sheet there that we've already gone through and basically highlighted all of the splices that will be included and I've already gone ahead and done some of these and I just want to explain what's included so for example here, our sensor 5V A, we have this coming from our position on our bulkhead connector and then we've got this providing power for our TPS, our MAP sensor and our oil pressure.
35:23 What I've done here is just manually added a note on the length of each of those conductors because obviously we need to trim these to length.
35:31 And then I've also used my concentric layer diagram to just work out which particular layer each of those conductors is from.
35:38 So for this example, 2 of the 3 conductors that are coming out of that splice will be in the layer we'll work on, layer 2, one of them isn't going to be used until we get up to layer 4.
35:50 Let's just jump ahead a little bit and we'll look at one that I've just prepared and talk in a bit more detail about it.
35:56 So this is our 12V supply for our VVT or variable valve timing solenoids and we've got one of these on each bank.
36:03 So obviously from this we have 3 conductors that are going into this, they're all 22 gauge and red which is our convention for our 12V supplies.
36:13 So our first one, our position, function here is 12V VVT, this is the supply, it's coming from position 23, location 23 on our bulkhead connector and then we've got our 2 outputs for bank 1 and bank 2.
36:28 Length for bank 1, 1400 mm, for bank 2, 1200 mm.
36:32 We've got 1 of those going into layer 2, obviously again the one we're working on, and the other one going into layer 3.
36:39 So we know what we're doing there, that allows us to go and trim our conductors to length.
36:43 Obviously we're going to also need a short section there which is going to be looped back for strain relief and that's actually going to be terminated into our autosport connector.
36:53 So that's what we've got here, I've already gone ahead and completed this and if we look at our overhead camera here, we have our little splice here and what I have used for that in this case, due to the CMA value that we've calculated already, we know we want to be using 1 of these little blue TE Connectivity splices.
37:17 We just need to trim enough length off our conductor to get full engagement in that.
37:21 Now this is one area where it's definitely helpful if you've got 2 pairs of wire strippers.
37:27 We can leave 1 set permanently to the length for the strip length we need for our autosport contacts and then we can have 1 that's going to require quite a lot longer strip length to work with these splices and get full engagement.
37:43 Now in order to actually crimp these down, I'm using the correct tool for the job here, we can see that it has locations for the red, blue and yellow splices, predominantly here, we're using the blue and the yellow splices for what we're dealing with.
38:00 Now once I've crimped that down, we can see that the exposed crimp and any conductors then sealed with some SCL and I've just crimped the end over using a pair of pliers while that SCL is still hot and soft.
38:19 Once it actually cools down, it becomes semi rigid, giving us strain relief and obviously that is then sealed electrically and it's also sealed from moisture.
38:28 We can see here that little section of wire that's going to go into our autosport connector, that's just going to bend around nicely and go in the opposite direction, giving us our strain relief.
38:40 Another thing I want to point out is at the other end of these conductors here.
38:45 And it's a little difficult to see specifically here because the colour of the heat shrink vs the colour of the wires but what I've done is put 3 sections of coloured heat shrink from my ident kit on here.
38:58 And what this does is it indicates to me, first of all the first colour here, which layer we're working with.
39:05 So in this case, the colour red is number 2, so this is layer 2.
39:09 Pink on the other hand is layer 3 so this separates my two layers out, this comes from the working out I've already done where I'd already noted which layer each conductor goes to.
39:20 Then just so I can reference these later on, the next 2 just indicate the position in the autosport connector.
39:27 Again red and pink, 2, 3 so position 23 and again that comes from my sheet there.
39:36 So straight away, once we've got everything in order, we're going to be able to recognise from that colour coding, first of all which layer the particular conductor goes in and then what its function is.
39:48 So that's the last of our splices that we need to complete our layer 2 so I'm going to go ahead, get that installed now and then we can get on with cutting our individual conductors for our sensor inputs etc.
40:03 When I'm doing this, I will also be labelling these in the same way with the position number.
40:09 Layer isn't important because I will only be adding at this stage the conductors for layer 2.
40:16 Just gets a little bit more complex with our splices because as I mentioned, these will be split between layers.
40:21 So let's carry on now, we'll speed this back up and get to a point where we're ready to start twisting our second layer.
40:29 Alright at this stage we've got all of our conductors for our second layer pinned out into our autosport connector.
40:35 We've obviously also gone ahead and got all of our splices in order and pinned out as well.
40:41 At this stage we're ready to start twisting our second layer so shortly I'll get our second vice into location, just like we did with our first layer and we can go through that process.
40:50 Before we do this though, at the moment we've obviously got what does look like a bit of bird's nest of wire here, it's looking all a little bit messy, don't worry too much about that, it's all going to start becoming a little bit clear the direction we're doing very shortly.
41:06 We do need to be a little bit mindful with this second layer though, making sure we have the right conductors and I've already explained the way that I've labelled those using our little heat shrink ident coloured bands and what we can also use is a bit of a sanity check here.
41:24 If we look at our concentric twist layer diagram, or layer lay up, we can see for our layer 2 here, we should have 24, 22 gauge conductors so what I've actually done is I've gone ahead and I've just managed to get all of the conductors that are going to go into that second layer in order, gone through and counted them, made sure that they do in fact have 24 conductors in there and at the moment I've just loosely got a cable tie around them.
41:54 And what that's going to do is allow me, once we get this set up, to get the rest of these conductors, and of course these come from our splices that go to the other layers, I can get those separated out neatly, making sure that I am in fact only twisting the conductors that we're interested in for this second layer so now that we've got a bit of an explanation of what we're doing there, we'll get ourselves set up with our second vice and we can start twisting that second layer.
42:20 We've got everything set up on our bench now with the harness supported in our vice.
42:25 What I've done to start with is just loosely taped the conductors that are going to make up the second layer using some thin kapton tape.
42:33 I've also got a cable tie here.
42:35 And what we're obviously going to be doing is laying in the opposite direction, this layer will be a left hand lay.
42:41 We do have of course 24 conductors as we already know.
42:44 We're not going to be able to twist all 24 together.
42:48 In order to make it manageable and not end up with everything tangled together, I try and only twist around about 4-6 wires at a time and then we'll come back and continue.
43:00 As we do this, I'm going to be using a cable tie or cable ties in order to secure my work as we go.
43:07 So let's get started with that now.
43:16 Alright that's out first 5 wires added into our second layer there.
43:20 Now with the longer conductors that we've got in this particular layer as well, we do find that as we twist, we're going to end up with the ends of them being wound together.
43:31 So as we go, each time we do a single twist, I like to get the ends and just tease them out so that they're not all tangled up and if we don't do that, we're going to get into a situation where the wires tend to want to overlap rather than laying straight and parallel to each other.
43:49 So that's just a little tip as we go through this.
43:52 What I'm going to do now is continue and add in more wires until we've got this layer complete.
44:43 We've got our second layer complete there up to our branch point and I've marked where that branch point's going to be, essentially as far as our concentric twist needs to be with a section of kapton tape.
44:55 At the moment I've still got that secured with a couple of cable ties.
44:58 What I'm going to do now is add some lacing cord to that second layer and some kapton tape and from here what we're going to do is jump ahead because we've got 2 more layers to go which is essentially just a rinse and repeat of what we've looked at so far.
45:13 Basically measuring our conductors out to length then terminating them, service looping them and then pinning out the connector.
45:21 Obviously then our 2 subsequent layers.
45:23 We've already done the majority of our splices, I think we've got 2 or 3 more splices that go into these last couple of layers.
45:30 So we'll jump ahead and we'll come back when we're ready to start dealing with our branch point A and see what we need to do there.
45:39 OK at this stage we've got our 3rd and our 4th layers of our twist complete.
45:44 Our bulkhead connector is now completely pinned out and I've also gone ahead and twisted the wiring for our fuel composition sensor.
45:53 Before we have a look in a bit more detail at this, let's just get this out of the way and we'll bring in our construction plan and just see exactly where we are up to.
46:03 So we are still on our stage 1 of course, we've gone through, prepped and twisted layers 1, 2, 3 and 4 around our core, prepped and twisted our fuel comp sensor wiring and the last part of this is to install our DR25.
46:20 Of course once we get past that branch point A it's going to be then impossible to install our sheathing so we are going to have to install and recover the sheathing down basically as we work out from that bulkhead connector.
46:32 Let's get our construction plan back out of the way here and we'll bring in our harness and have a little bit of a look at some of the detail.
46:39 So for a start, this is our 4th layer here, we can see we've got it held together essentially with some kapton tape as well as our levlar lacing cord, everything's looking really nice there.
46:51 We've got good flexibility in that harness.
46:54 The point here just beyond our kapton tape, this is 260 mm from the centreline of our connector body.
47:03 And that, from our original plan, this is where we're going to have our first branch point and our T boot.
47:10 The accuracy of this is quite important and what we need to do when we are preparing this branch is just give some thought to this.
47:17 We don't want to be basically twisting this and containing it too close to that branch point, that's not going to give us enough room to work out from it so this is where we're going to be branching.
47:28 We've got our kapton tape and our kevlar lacing cord placed back around about 25 mm, about an inch back from that.
47:34 I'll also just talk briefly about our actual connector itself and the back of this.
47:40 Now this is a really busy connector and it is difficult when we've got so many splices going on back here as well as our service loop, to keep everything absolutely neat and tidy so it is difficult but ultimately this is all going to be hidden behind our boot.
47:58 So in order to just confirm that, let's just flip our harness over and we'll get our little silhouette back in behind our boot here and we can see that everything is going to be pretty tight there but we do have room behind that boot so all I've done is gone ahead and just basically taped that with our kapton tape, that allows me to basically get everything neatly bundled together and make sure that I've got the right form factor to fit behind that boot.
48:27 Now just talk a little bit about the rest of this harness as well.
48:31 And at this stage we're going to be now adding our DR25 so what I've done is just temporarily taped the harness with some masking tape and that's just going to make it a little bit easier for me to get our DR25 installed over the top of this harness.
48:49 So that's our next step.
48:51 I've already gone ahead and cut a section of DR25 to suit, let's just get that over our harness and we'll see what exactly that looks like, we'll get our fuel composition sensor wiring out of the way here.
49:03 So again we've got our branch point marked out here, this DR25 essentially is going to go from our kapton tape here through to here, it's going to give us plenty of coverage and our T boot essentially, again we can, we'll know what that's going to cover.
49:17 Alright what we're going to do now is work our DR25 into place, this does get a little bit tricky with all of the loose ends of the harness that we need to work it through.
49:27 Other thing to just take into account is the orientation of the lettering on the raychem DR25.
49:34 This is personal preference but I like to make sure that it is always aligned and running in the same direction, obviously this becomes more of an issue on subsequent sections of the harness.
49:43 I'll also try, just for the sake of completeness, make sure that it is always aligned in the same part of the harness.
49:50 So let's go ahead, get this installed, we can get our heat gun into shot and we'll recover this down.
50:07 Alright we've worked our sheathing into location, so we're now ready to recover that down so let's get that done.
50:24 Alright we've got our DR25 installed and recovered and we can see we've got that nice circular shape, everything's looking really nice and tidy there and of course we've got that good flexibility from the way we've twisted those layers.
50:38 What we're going to do now is move on with our construction plan and if we get our construction plan back under our overhead here, what we can see is we're moving onto build stage 2 and the first part of this which is going to be quite a bit of work is going to be grouping our wiring at that branch point so we need to split that off so we've got the correct wires or conductors for branches A to G and then also A to B.
51:03 Now coming back to our original plan, you will recall that our core consists of the cam position sensor wiring for the run that goes from A to G.
51:14 So unfortunately we do have to disassemble this harness basically right back down to that core, drag our that particular shielded cable and then start collecting everything together.
51:26 So we're going to speed that up and get everything done now and it's a case of going through and just collecting all of the wires together so that we are absolutely confident that we have the correct conductors in the correct branches.
51:38 If we get this wrong it's going to be very difficult to recover from.
51:42 Now a couple of tips that we have in order to basically help us avoid any potential pitfalls here.
51:49 First of all, all of our conductors as we already know have our little coloured ident markers so we know which particular pin on the bulkhead connector that goes to.
52:00 However, on top of this, for the most part, other than our CAN twisted pair and our cam position sensor, most of the wiring is already oriented correctly in that the outer layers 3 and 4 in particular, predominantly are going for the branch point A to G.
52:17 The inner layers, except for the ones I've mentioned there those are predominantly going branch point A to B so it's not quite as complex and difficult as it sounds but let's get that done now.
52:54 We've got our outer 2 layers 3 and 4 now separated out and predominantly all of those are going out from point A through to poing G.
53:03 I just wanted to stop here though and just briefly discuss something that I have been doing here.
53:08 As you can see on our overhead shot, I've used kapton tape here just to secure our harness beyond the section that we have twisted up to branch point A and the idea behind this is just to make it easier again to get our DR25 over.
53:24 Basically holding the rest of our harness together in a small bundle size.
53:29 This is an area though, when we're starting to undo all of that kapton tape and basically unbundle everything, it's a very easy place to end up making a mistake and cutting a wire which can be very difficult if not impossible to recover from.
53:43 And the temptation can be to use something like our flush cut pliers here and sort of hack into it or worse still to use a blade and try and cut the kapton tape with our blade.
53:55 Now the problem with doing that is you're almost guaranteed that you're going to end up damaging the insulation around one of our conductors.
54:02 What I like to do is use something like my pick here and just gently get that underneath the kapton tape and this way we can pierce the tape, we're not in any danger here of actually damaging one of the conductors and there you can then get your fingernail and just get that tape off so just really important to make sure that we don't end up creating a real headache for ourselves this far into the game, we've already done so much of the hard work.
54:33 Alright let's continue and get the rest of this harness stripped back.
54:36 Alright at this stage we've got the harness essentially disassembled and we've got our core section of wire here which incudes our two knock sensor connections, our CAN bus as well as our cam position input for bank 2 so these are our core that are going to be coming out of this branch point A.
54:57 The other thing I'm going to do before I start reassembling this is I'm just going to go through and find and isolate each of the other actuators or sensors that are coming out at that branch point A so for example that includes actuators such as our inlet manifold flap actuator, we've also got our ground point that's coming out there as well as the likes of our coolant pressure and manifold pressure sensors just to name a few.
55:27 So we're going to go through, isolate and find those particular conductors.
55:31 We're going to just use some cable ties here to gather those together, that's going to make it easier to branch those out individually once we've actually assembled the rest of our harness.
55:40 So let's get that done now.
55:43 OK at this stage we've got all of our sensors, actuators and our ground point isolated out at this branch point.
55:50 It's important to do this and be thorough about it because it makes sure that we don't end up accidentally with one of those conductors being twisted up with our branches out from A to B and A to G for example.
56:02 Now it's not too difficult to do, all we are using here is our little coloured idents and just going through our documentation, making sure that we are meticulous.
56:11 I've also, as you can see, just cabled tied these together at the moment and this just allows me to make sure I've got them all gathered together correctly.
56:20 Now one point I will make here is at this particular branch point, we do have a ground point and at this ground point, we actually need to add some conductors into this.
56:32 These are the grounds for our ignition coil so those don't actually originate from the bulkhead connector, those grounds will be going straight to a ground point on the back of the cylinder head, we've got the same on the other cylinder head as well.
56:44 So it's very easy to overlook that and if we do, we're going to get to a point where it comes time to terminate our ignition coils and we'll find that our grounds are missing so again just meticulously working through that, working through our construction plan and making sure we've got everything that we need for each of those branches out at this particular junction.
57:04 What we'll do now, just to speed things up a little bit is we'll just gather all of the individual conductors that we need for our main branch points A to G and A to B and then once we've done that, we'll come back and we'll start looking at our construction plan and beginning the twisting of those particular branches.
57:21 OK at this point we've essentially gone through and got all of our conductors at branch point A oriented correctly and granted at the moment it does look a little bit busy, there's a lot going on here.
57:34 But let's just explain what we've done, so we'll get this under the overhead camera here.
57:38 So obviously we've got our section that we've just completed.
57:42 In this bundle here, what I've done is already gone ahead and basically gathered together everything that is going to branch out at branch point A.
57:50 So that's the sensors, the actuators and our ground points for example that come out at this T junction.
57:56 Then we've got our actual branch points so for example, this section here, this is going to run from A to B.
58:03 This section out here, this is going to run from A to G.
58:07 Now if we just get this out of the way for a moment and we'll bring back in our construction plan and have a look at exactly what we're doing.
58:15 So we've got our wiring grouping which we have gone ahead and done.
58:18 What we're going to do next is we're going to twist our core layer 1 and layer 2 from A to branch point B.
58:27 So in order to help fast track that, what I've actually done is gone ahead and made this even a little bit clearer.
58:34 So here we can see in our overhead, we've got our core, then I've also gathered together just using a cable tie which I'll get into shot, these are all of the conductors that are going to go into layer 1 and then over here we've got all of the conductors that are going to go into layer 2 so just makes it much easier, I'm not hunting out conductors on the fly as I'm building up that twist.
58:59 Now let's just have another look at our core here of the branch point.
59:04 And obviously we are forced to get conductors from different layers, we've already discussed that and this does get a little bit messy here and a little bit busy.
59:13 Because we're going to be constructing at this stage, our from our branch point A through to B, so we're going to be coming down in this direction, what I'm going to be able to do is essentially tidy this up as we go but it is important to just make sure that we're not adding unnecessary bulk as we go here and we're not essentially running the conductors in an unnecessarily long way so a little bit of combing out and tidying up as we go with our individual conductors generally is required.
59:41 What we're going to do now is get our little bench vices back into shot and we'll get this set up so that we can start twisting our branch point from A through to B.
59:54 Alright we've got our vices set up here and we are supporting the existing section of our harness, with our DR25 sheathing in our vice.
01:00:02 I've gone a little bit further to protect that by wrapping it with some rag and some masking tape just so it's not going to have any chance of being damaged by the jaws of our vice.
01:00:11 Now what I've done as well is essentially grouped all of the conductors that we aren't interested in at the moment, so that's the individual runs from branch point A for our actuators, ground points etc as well as everything that's going to be going from A to G, I've got that all out of the way and I've run that all back so I'm not going to get confused.
01:00:31 The other wiring that I am interested in here, we've just got that hanging out of the way at the moment for our subsequent layers and I've got our 3 shielded pairs here, so that's our ref, our sync and our cam position bank 1.
01:00:44 Those ake up our core and from our concentric twist diagram or design I should say, we know that we're going to be twisting these in a left hand lay.
01:00:54 This is relatively easy to do just by hand and we do tend to find as well that these shielded pairs tend to sort of stay where you put them when you do twist them so I'm just going to go through here and lay this up by hand and we can go a little bit beyond the branch point B which is our interest point at the moment because these will actually go for the majority of the harness down this branch so let's go ahead and get that done now and what I'm trying to do as well is get nice an tight into our branch point here, remembering that we are going to be branching out here just about 15 or 20 mm from the end of our DR25 so let's go ahead and get that done.
01:01:38 Alright I've got a reasonable length of our core now twisted together and as you can see, it's stayed nice and tightly twisted together without the need at this stage of any kapton tape or lacing cord and we can see we've got a nice consistent size to the core that we've twisted there, it's all looking nice and consistent.
01:01:58 So what we cab do just to make sure it's not going to go anywhere as we twist these subsequent layers is we'll just put a little bit of kapton tape around the end of it and then we can get it secured a little bit more tightly in our vice so let's get that done.
01:02:12 Alright we've got our core twisted, secured in our vice, we can now move on with our first layer, remembering of course that we're going to be going in an opposite lay.
01:02:20 Because we've already gone ahead and sorted out all of our conductors, this should be relatively easy and we're only going to be using around about 4 or 5 conductors at a time.
01:02:31 Again combing out the ends so they don't get tangled, making our life nice and easy and we'll secure this with cable ties as we go.
01:03:10 Alright we've got our first layer complete, twisted over our core, I've just secured this at the moment with some kapton tape.
01:03:16 Let's move on and we'll complete this process with our second layer.
01:04:03 Alright at this stage we've got our section of harness from branch point A through to branch point B all laid up.
01:04:11 We've got our kevlar lacing cord in place and we've attached that using some kapton tape.
01:04:16 I have gone ahead and marked out on the twisted layer here, our outer layer, layer 2 where our second branch point, branch point B is going to be.
01:04:26 So I've purposefully made sure that I've started my kapton tape and my lacing cord a little bit back from that because that's going to give me a little bit of room to break out the wiring when we get to that branch point B.
01:04:38 So at this stage, we can go ahead, cut some DR25 sheathing and get this into location and then shrink that down so we're going to do that now.
01:05:10 Alright at this stage we've got our branch point A through to B completed, it's sheathed and it's recovered.
01:05:18 We've essentially now got exactly the same process to complete from branch point A through to G and following that, we've also got our individual sensors, actuators and grounds to twist and sheath as well.
01:05:30 We're going to jump ahead now rather than essentially rinsing and repeating what you've just seen, we'll jump ahead to the point where we have that main branch of our harness from A through to G completed and twisted and then we'll carry on.
01:05:46 Alright we've got our branch point A now essentially complete, or at least the hard part with our A to B and A to G branches done.
01:05:55 Let's have a quick look at this under our overhead and get a little bit of the detail.
01:05:58 It's still obviously looking pretty busy at the branch point because we have all of the actuator and sensors still to terminate but we can see, the actual branch point itself with the main trunk here, our A to B and our A to G runs, everything's nice and tight in here and again we can use a silhouette printed out as we've done for the back of our autosport connector just to ensure that we have located our branch point correctly.
01:06:24 Now couple of key things that we do need to consider here.
01:06:27 Of course we've got the distance centre to centre here and that comes from our documentation so let's just get this into view on our camera here and we'll grab our ruler and we want to be looking at 250 mm there, sorry 260 mm there, centre to centre and we can see, essentially that's exactly what we've got to the middle of the branch point.
01:06:51 There is always a little bit of flexibility in this but we want to stay as close as we can to our documentation, this gives us the best chance of success.
01:07:02 On top of this, the other aspect we need to consider is the orientation at this particular branch point.
01:07:08 So we can see we've got the orientation of our autosport connector, that's essentially fixed, we want to make sure that our branch point here, particularly our A to G run is coming off in the correct orientation.
01:07:20 Now what I did ahead of time before I made this branch point was a quick test fit on the vehicle just to confirm this, making sure everything was sitting where I wanted.
01:07:30 And what I did was I used this cable tie here and the head of this cable tie, I located this where I wanted my branch point, the T of that branch to come out and I've just assembled that as we can see.
01:07:44 Now at this point, there is still a little bit of flexibility in this so we can move this around a few degrees but of course if you've got it coming off in completely the wrong direction, that's not going to be recoverable so really important to take note of that as you're constructing your branches, these T branches.
01:08:01 What we're going to do is just get this out of the way for a moment, we'll bring in our construction design documentation here and we'll have a quick look and see where we're up to.
01:08:09 So what we can see is we have twisted our core A to B, we've installed our DR25 sheathing over A to B, we've also jumped just a little bit out of order here and we've done the same for A to G.
01:08:22 So the section we've got here is twisting our individual sensors and actuators and then sheathing each of those.
01:08:29 And we'll do a final test fit here as well, again just ensuring that T boot is correct, making sure all of our lengths for our sensors and actuators are correct.
01:08:38 So that's what we're going to move onto now.
01:08:40 Again we will speed this up just a little bit because it does become quite repetitive.
01:08:44 But getting our harness back into shot here, essentially what I've already done is gone through and I've basically taken the individual runs out of this and cable tied them together.
01:08:57 So this just makes my job a little bit easier here.
01:09:00 And if we just look at how we're going to terminate one of these, let's just look at our wires here and we've obviously got a red wire, we know this is a 12V and a white wire.
01:09:10 What we can do is have a look at our colour coding on these here and we can see that for example our 12V feed here is a brown and black, that is our colour code for 10, we have a black and a white which is our colour code for 09 or 9.
01:09:28 So that's our bulkhead positions and what I know from this is that this is our injector 8 wiring, our wiring out there for our injector 8 actuator.
01:09:38 So from our documentation we also know the length of this.
01:09:42 So what we're going to do is now twist this and sheath it with some DR25.
01:09:47 There's a couple of ways we can go about this and it does require a little bit of care.
01:09:52 We can either hand twist this, because we're going to be doing a lot of this, I will be using a drill and this does become a little bit controversial when we are working with Tefzel wire, it's a technique that we use quite a lot at HPA.
01:10:04 It is definitely possible to damage the Tefzel wire if you're too vigorous and aggressive with your twisting using the drill so that needs to be taken into account.
01:10:14 Obviously it goes without saying, the drill technique is going to be inevitably damage the ends of the wires so as you can see here, we've got quite a bit of additional length, I'll check with my documentation, I think this run is about 200 mm so we've got a lot of additional length so I'm not concerned about that so that's what we're going to do.
01:10:33 Now before we do that, we also need to make sure we've got the actuator wiring coming up the right leg so with all of this wiring that we have here, we're going to have some of our wiring coming out along the A to B branch and some of the wiring coming out on the A to G branch so in this case, our injector wiring, that will be on our A to G branch so it's going to need to be bundled so it's going to run nicely up the side of this branch and that's going to make it easier to get that boot installed.
01:11:03 So some of this requires potentially a little bit of manipulation in the actual wiring here at the back where it's going to be covered by the boot so we've got basically as clean a, tidy a result as we can.
01:11:17 So what I'll do here is go ahead and remove our cable ties, we'll cut these to length so that both runs are the same length so we can get the into our drill and we'll twist them together.
01:11:27 And what we're going to do here is a slight over twist, a little bit beyond where we want to go, not too tight though, and then we'll back it off a little bit so that our wiring won't end up springing back when we release the chucks.
01:11:36 So let's get that done now.
01:12:02 Alright we've got our wiring there for injector number 8 nicely twisted together and I just relocated it so that it would run nicely through this bundle and not get in the way of the rest of the wiring that we still have to break out.
01:12:15 Now I did check my documentation, the length of this is actually 270 mm and that length is from the actual centre here of our branch so it's always important to make sure you've got the correct reference point.
01:12:29 We're much longer than we need to be there so a little bit generous on our length but always easier to have a little bit of additional that we can trim back, rather than finding we're a little bit short.
01:12:38 So what I'm going to do now is cut some DR25 to length and we'll shrink that into place.
01:12:55 Alright that's our injector 8 wiring there twisted, broken out and sheathed so we're going to now speed this up again, we'll repeat this process for the remainder of our terminations here, which is essentially a bit of a rinse and repeat.
01:13:09 There will be a couple of sections such as our ground where we will be twisting our wires, we'll also be doing this for the connection to our knock sensors and starter motor but we'll just speed this process up, again it's a rinse and repeat of what we have seen so far.
01:14:41 Alright we're getting through our actuator and sensor wiring here and I just wanted to stop a moment and just talk a little bit about our ignition wiring because we've got our 3 wires here for our number 8 ignition coil.
01:14:56 Now these are a smart coil, they only need power, earth and a signal from the ECU so obviously that's our 3 wires.
01:15:04 However there is also a feedback circuit from the Toyota factory coil which is interpreted by the ECU to detect a misfire.
01:15:13 While we don't have that functionality from the MoTeC ECU, i am going to actually add a 4th wire into this run and for all of our subsequent ignition wiring runs as well and the reason for this is that the connector body clearly has a 4th position on it.
01:15:30 Now if we don't run a 4th wire, the coil will function but we have no way of actually sealing that 4th position in the connector, particularly if we aren't booting the back of it and this would allow moisture and dirt ingress so we're just going to simply add a 4th filler wire in.
01:15:48 This will be terminated at the connector body just so the little insulating or sealing plug that goes around the conductor and gets crimped into the contact, that'll be in place, allowing that connector body, once it's fitted to be moisture proof so let's carry on now.
01:16:35 Alright that concludes the assembly of our branch point A and this has been a big job, this is definitely the most complex part of the built right behind the termination of our autosport connector and all of the splices that went in there so this is a complex job and as such, it does take some time to get done.
01:16:54 However, this being essentially the hardest part of the build, from here on, everything should flow a little bit more smoothly.
01:17:01 Now you can see everything that I have just terminated and we've run them essentially in the directions they're going to go.
01:17:10 So once we gather these up with some kapton tape and get everything nice and neat , it should be ready for our boot.
01:17:17 Now I have purposefully not covered this in kapton tape at the moment.
01:17:21 What we're going to do from here before we go too much further is we're just going to test fit this on the vehicle, make sure that everything is exactly as it needs to be before we move further on.
01:17:33 There's a couple of key aspects we were looking for as part of this test fit.
01:17:37 First of all, the orientation of our autosport connector on the bulkhead, making sure that the wiring is coming off this in the correct orientation and that's going to work with our engine location.
01:17:48 At the same time, the location and orientation of our branch point A, really this is key here.
01:17:52 Making sure that the T section or T branch out of that branch point A is headed in the right direction.
01:17:59 Now I've already noted, we used our cable tie to signify where we wanted that orientation and there is a little bit of flexibility here before we actually go and recover down our T boot but we just want to make sure that this is in fact OK.
01:18:14 It also gave me the opportunity to just check a couple of our lengths, namely for example the wiring for our ignition coil number 8, making sure that that was the correct length and everything was going to run as we expected on our wire rope harness as well as our injector 8.
01:18:30 Everything was really looking quite good there, I'm confident all of our lengths are going to work out and everything is fitting just as we expected.
01:18:39 So at this point, we've followed our construction plan and it's just going to be a case of now completing that construction plan.
01:18:46 We're going to be continuing to branch out down the left hand side of the motor and then the right hand side of the motor.
01:18:54 To speed up the process of filming this and make the length of this worked example a little bit more manageable, we're going to jump ahead here.
01:19:02 This is really just a case of a rinse and repeat of what we've already seen, we're going to be breaking out the sensors and actuators at our branch points and then continuing to reconstruct our concentric twist as we move down until we get to the end of both branches.
01:19:17 So no different to anything you've seen at this point.
01:19:20 We'll jump ahead now and have a look at the harness with that process complete.
01:19:26 OK so at this point we've essentially completed step 5 of our process.
01:19:31 We've got our harness construction for the most part complete here, we've got our 2 main branches from our T intersection at branch point A complete, we've gone through and sheathed everything with our DR25, we've got our break outs for our individual sensors and actuators and we've also gone through and done a final test fit on our engine just to make sure that everything is working out exactly as per our wire rope harness that we started with.
01:20:00 So at this point, we're ready to move on with the next step of our process.