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F56 Mini Cooper S - 400-500HP??

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Keep everyone up to date with how your project is coming along. 

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Hi Guys,

First post here... hope you're all doing well.

I currently own a 2015 Mini Cooper S powered by the 2.0L Turbo B48A20 Engine. Previous generations used a 1.6L Open Deck Block whereas this generation use a 2.0L closed deck block.

A couple of months back i had the ecu tuned and was delivering 316hp & 496NM of torque. Long story short its a bit too much for the stock toffee pistons... it actually only lasted approximately 2 weeks after the remap to two of the pistons loosing compression quite badly so because of this it is getting rebuilt with performance internals. (I'll post a list of parts at the end)

I recently saw the Stephan Papadikis B58 build where he took the 2020 Supra to 1000hp (obviously with supporting mods). The B58 & B48 blocks are almost exactly the same block (closed deck) minus the two extra cylinders. I reached out to Stephan and he says based on his build the B48 block with the correct internals would be able to withstand around 600hp.

So here i am rebuilding my B48A20 engine... I'm not going to be touching the 600hp area... i'm actually going to be looking to reach around 450hp with this build. Stock power is 192hp...

Currently all the front end of the car is off, all the fluids drained, the ecu & power distribution disconnected all ready now for the engine to be pulled.

I'll keep everyone up to date with this build as it progresses but with the current world situation parts are taking forever to arrive unfortunately.

If anyones got any questions fire away i look forward to answering them.

You can find me in instagram if you want to keep up to date with photos etc @f56_cal

Thankyou :)


9.7:1 Damico Forged Pistons & Rods

Supertech Intake Valves

Supertech Exhaust Valves

Supertech Spring & Titanium Retainer Set

Supertech Valve Keepers

King Big End Bearings

MINI Main Bearings

(Upgraded Turbo & manifolds Need to Ask on another thread about this)

Attached Files

Sounds like a cool build and with a sensible-ish power level.

About all I'd say at this point is to make sure that the support for that power and torque level is taken care of - fuelling, charge cooling, oil and water cooling... heck heat management, period, as there isn't a lot of room in there. Transmission from flywheel to tyres will probably need to be addressed as they're going to be under a LOT more stress. Depending on what it'll be used for, a significant brake and suspension update may be wise and a full cage is always a good idea if you're going to be pushing it.

Since it's apart, might be a good idea having some work done on the cylinder head - the engine is a pump and if you can reduce the pumping losses you'll gain power.

Hi Gord,

Thankyou for your reply and your suggestions. The car is going to be used on track days and the occasional meet up with friends on the road.

Do you think stock injectors will be enough or need replacing with the next size up? 500cc per cylinder at the moment i believe.

I already have an upgraded intercooler, hard charge air pipes (removes stock rubber ones) and intake pipe to remove baffling on the stock pipe and increase air flow. I have utilised the hood scoop to direct air flow into the filter as well as through the grill.

I have a organic helix performance clutch rated to 500nm already installed in the car tempted to upgrade to the paddle which supports 700nm. And keep an eye on the drive shafts as they may need reinforcement.

I have the MINI JCW 4 Pot Big Brake Kit on this car (same calipers as the BMW M4) just need some new discs and pads. I am also fabricating some brake ducts to remove the factory fog lights and run cooling ducts through onto the brake disc shield for cooling of the brakes.

I will also be adding a water methanol injection pump to this too to help will the cooling.

Suspension is on the to do list when it is up and running.

And by cylinder head work... do you mean porting of the valves to increase flow through the head?

For the most part, I'm an old-school carbies guy - so it will be smart to confirm this - but I expect you'll be able to use those injectors, depending on the pressure.

500 N.m is about 370 lbs.ft, that might be pushing it a little - if I were doing it, I'd do the upgrade now, especially as it's going to be a much bigger hassle than for an older RWD.

Brakes sound like they should be sweet, and you can always try higher temp' pads as cold, street response will be less of an issue?

Yes, depending on the current state of the head as cast, it may be quite beneficial to have them ported by someone who knows what they're doing. If nothing else, careful attention to the seat area is generally warranted, as that's where lower lift cam's can really benefit.

There must be a lot of folks modifying these, have you had much success checking out other forums for people that have actually done the upgrades for advice and caveats?


Yes i think the clutch may have to be upgraded while it is out again, going to order a Wavetrac LSD for the gearbox too while i'm at it.

Unfortunately with these newer engines it has variable valve lift, so has your two cam shafts but then has an intermediate shaft for the variable valve lift so no ones has developed different cams for these engines yet because of the VVT system... Emissions for you...

The head should be fine as it is relatively new. The car only has 37k miles on from new.

I dont know of anyone that has modified one of these engines to this extent other than one of my friends who went for a similar set up but he had the engine built at a shop and ended up forking out thousands for the labour.

It's all good fun and a massive learning curve for myself too. Cant wait to dive into the engine now.