Sale ends todayGet 30% off any course (excluding packages)
Ends in --- --- ---
Keep everyone up to date with how your project is coming along.
Was sitting down today and realised i use this site a lot for info but never really contribute so am going to try and fix that.
Ive had this car about 5 years and it has seen many different configurations but I will just share the latest one. I do all of the work myself except for large welding/fab jobs and dyno tuning. I do my best to keep it as streetable as possible, that means keeping it within the rules to get engineered easily in Western Australia if necessary and keeping the Air conditioning!.
Haltech Elite 1500
ARP headstuds + Tomei HG
BC 264 Cams + VCT removed
CD009 with Mazworx bellhousing
1650cc Bosch injectors
Recently did racewars which is a standing start 1000m event and took it down the 1/4
Got an excellent result at racewars with a best top speed of 251.17 km/h.
Didn't manage a decent time at the drags because it was really hard to get off the line with my 4.11 diff, very short 1st gear and was also still running stiff sidewall semi slicks. best was a 12.18 @122MPH. Very promising MPH, I should be able to get a low 11 with a few changes.
Black intercooler, original bumper, nice upgraded but still OEM wheels... That is one extremely tasteful car! Your interior in particular ticks all the boxes for me.... As in, not too far from stock! Love it.
Definitely with that MPH at the end of the 1/4 you can expect some lower times, but getting a nissan IRS or that era to leave well on circuit orientated tyres is always an interesting challenge!
What fuel are you running it on?
Did you have to modify the firewall / transmission tunnel much to get the CD009 under there?
I'm running E85. I have installed flex fuel capability and have got it to run on 98 just fine myself but it's only good to get me out of trouble if I'm not near an E85 fuel station (they are hard to come by over here in WA), I still need to go back to the dyno to get the timing for flex done properly.
The only modification I did to fit the trans is cut the shifter hole larger at the rear because it would foul on the billet mount. Usually I'm 100% against doing this but I don't have the worlds best shell to begin with, so I wasn't ruining a nice s14 shell by cutting into it. The other reason is that I've never found an aftermarket shifter to feel better than a stock one, with the mazworx mount the stock shifter assembly fits in no problems and feels far better than the short shifter they supplied with the kit. I have a friend with the GKtech shifter that got stuck in 3rd with a brand new CD009 and couldn't get it out, admittedly he lengthened the shifter so the extra leverage may have been its downfall.
To get the speedo working I attached an old S13 ABS sensor to the diff and pointed it at the tailshaft bolts, this goes into a dakota signal converter which then sends the signal to the cluster and the cluster sends the signal to the ecu via the factory harnessing. I will work on a nicer mounting method one day, but for now its just fine :).
Isn't the Dakota Digital able to tee into the factory rear ABS sensor to get the speed working? I'm still not finished with the 350Z conversion on my own S14a, but at least that was my impression of the unit.
Anyways, pretty awesome build with the stock look from the outside - love that!
You can tap into the diff ABS sensor. I originally did that with my old S15 6 speed gearbox but it causes the ABS to error and put the light on the dash. I'm no electronics expert but id say tapping a load into the line affects the signal to the ABS ECU.
The extra sensor is definitely a cleaner way of getting the speed signal to the dash ;)
I'm already running a Link G4+ Thunder, so I'll use the ABS sensors at some point anyways for wheel speed inputs (traction control) and then wire an aux output to the dash and run the speedo via the ECU