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TA22 Celica w/ 4agte 20v

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Hi guys, thought i'd throw up some photos and a little info on my 4agte 20v powered TA22 Celica.

The car has been built for sprint and hillclimb events, and general motorsport fun. I've just started racing with MSCA in their sprint championships in the Under 3.5L class.

Basic specs:


4agze small port block bored 0.5mm OS

balanced 20v silvertop crank

Spool H-beam rods

Ross forged 20v low comp turbo pistons

Total Seal piston rings

ACL race series bearings

OEM gaskets, seals, etc

20v silvertop cylinder head, port matched and transitions smoothed

Stock cams w/ VVT retained (for now)

Supertech heavy duty valve springs

Modified silvertop valve cover with -10 breathers

Modified 16v sump to clear steering rack, oil temp sensor bung, etc

Coil on plug conversion from SamQ

Fuel system

3SGTE 440cc injectors (for now)

Turbosmart adjustable fuel pressure regulator

10mm fuel lines to/from tank

RCI 45L poly fuel cell, foam filled w/ roll over valve

Custom fuel tank cradle

Facet lift pump (for now)

Bosch 044 supply pump

2.5L surge tank


3" intake pipe w/ pod filter fed from wheel arch

T28 from a 200sx (for now), rebuilt and ready for 16psi

2.5" stainless intercooler piping

450x300x76mm front mount intercooler w/ 90deg elbows welded on

GTIR Pulsar intake plenum modified with IAT sensor, cut shorter, black wrinkle finish paint

Adaptor plate to suit throttles and plenum - designed by me

20v silvertop throttle bodies w/ OEM inlet manifold


custom 4-1 turbo manifold, unequal length, merge collector (kinda) w/ t28 flange

custom made 3" dump pipe w/ o2 sensor bung

side pipe, now with 18" long hotdog (Sandown sound restrictions)


Custom light weight billet steel flywheel by NPC

Custom clutch using a Mitsu Evo pressure plate, 4 puck carbotic clutch disc, etc

Custom bellhousing to suit engine & gearbox, putting the clutch slave on the driver's side of the motor

W57 gearbox

Volvo 1031 rear axle w/ 4.10 gears & CIG locker


295mm ventilated front rotors w/ Mazda FD RX7 4 pot calipers, custom brackets

261mm ventilated rear rotors 2 Nissan R32 GTR 2 pot calipers, custom brackets

Booster delete

Datsport 7/8 master cylinder on custom mounting plate

Wilwood Bias valve

All new hard & soft brake lines


XT130 struts with Pedders "Extreme" inserts, origin unknown but the valving looks good!

Coil over sleeves w/ 65mm ID springs + helpers

Adjustable camber tops with 5mm offset for more caster - designed by me

40mm RCA's

Whiteline H/Duty front sway bar

KE70 crossmember & steering rack conversion w/ AE86 power steering arms

Custom LCA's to give adjustment (stock to +50mm)

Rear springs converted to 65mm ID motorsport springs w/ adjustable ride height

Rear shocks are Pedders Sports Ryder from a Camaro, again valving & stroke looked suitable

Adjustable rear arms, rose jointed at diff, urethane at body

Whiteline adjustable panhard rod

Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar

Wheels & Tyres

Rota 15x8 +0ET wheels

Yokohama 048's (for now)

Body work

racing front splitter - modified for intercooler

bob-tail rear spoiler (blended)

wheel arch flares (blended)

most of the rust removed

paint TBA


sound deadener removed

custom seat mounts

harness mounts

no-name fixed back race seats

Velo 4pt harnesses

custom electrical board (ecu, relays, fuses, etc) in front of passenger feet

custom switch panel with push button start, kill switch, misc' switches, etc

dash TBA

half cage (weld in) by Freak Motorsport Fabrication - soon to be turned into full cage

Next post will be heaps of pics...

Engine - I build this myself, lets hope she holds together!

Exhaust manifold being made - this is the first time i've made a manifold.

Finished item heat wrapped:

Dump pipe being made

Finished item:

Side pipe, hoping the turbo is enough of a muffler...?

Exit in front of the rear wheel

KE70 steering rack & cross-member conversion

TA22 column with the bottom of a KE70 column grafted on:

KE70 cross-member shortened to fit in TA22, BMW engine mounts, AJPS steering rods

Front suspension & Brakes:

Speedo pick up mounted in front hub assembly

Volvo 1031 diff conversion:

Made a set of alloy collars to go in the diff housing to check for straightness with the use of a 38mm solid steel round bar:

Also got the axles changed from 5x108 to 4x114.3 stud pattern:

Made a diff jig:

Put the volvo diff in it:

Got some new mounts laser cut to my own design:

All tacked up:

Welded the centre using the ol' plate method:

Put the centre in the diff with a set of 4.1's, new bearings, backlash and pre-load set:

Rear suspension

Cut down the factory arms and added threaded ends & chromo rose joints for the diff end, urethane bushes for the body end:

Spring set up - note helper springs not fitted in this pic:

Rear brakes:

Master cylinder

Mounting plate to suit pedal box & firewall hole pattern

Mounted up with new brake lines and bias valve

Made up a battery box from some scrap angle i had lying around... i'm not a very good TIG welder...

Bolted down with some riv-nuts in the floor

Finished result:

Also designed a catch can and made that. It's a atmo venting style with internal baffle and will use fuel cell foam as the filer media. It fits in the space behind the strut tower next to the wiper motor and should have enough capacity to satisfy CAMS. I'll post some pics tomorrow of it installed.

Render from Solidworks:

All taped up and ready for welding:

After welding:

The welding I got a mate to do as he's much better than I

Radiator, oil cooler and intercooler mounted:

Used some new bolts to make it look swish! Pretty fancy for a race car. These bolts are from www.bolted.com.au.

First Start!! Pretty happy it fired up without any real issues once we put a decent map into it.


No oil leaks, no fuel leaks, no funny engine noises, happy days. Now to put it on a trailer and take it to the dyno to be run in and tuned to 16psi.

Drilled/tapped the original bonnet stand off holes and fitted some bonnet pins

Splitter mods, test fit before paint

Dummy fit up of the splitter after paint

Front tow point

Rear tow point laser cut to my design. It bolts where the original part once lived however the 45mm hole is CAMS compliant.

Starting to look like a car again

Drove it from the front garage up to the shed in the back yard... so it moves under it's own power now!

Fitted the rear f/glass bumper, boot hold-downs, etc. Back of the car is finished.

Dyno tune left me with mixed feelings...

Pro's... it didn't blow up, the rings bedded in and there was no oil in the catch can after many many dyno pulls, and i got to drive it around the street and it was mad fun!

Con's... couldn't get the ECU to turn off the VVT, so the power flatlines at 6000rpm due to the advanced inlet cam. We did a run with the VVT off and it made another 15kw so there's an easy 180kw at the wheels once this issue is fixed.

Graph (note, this is a low ready dyno)

Robbie at wolf faxed this fix to us, need to use a second Aux output to turn off the VVT power:

First drive after the run-in tune... https://youtu.be/_bouHya5hW0

Finished shot of the engine bay:

A couple shots of it at the track:

Finally a video (https://youtu.be/2WrKG2YyEnA) of it's first laps around a track. Driver needs HEAPS more skill, but for now i'll blame the low rev limit, old tyres and learning the car as the reasons why i was 5 seconds off the pace :-) next time we're at the track it should have a 8500rpm rev limit and the VVT working, so i'm keen to get into it!!

Thanks for looking!


I can't believe I never noticed this build thread going up, it's seriously impressive! great work

Very nice build, a set of sports cams for disable vvt and a little more lift are going to make the engine fell like a racer !!

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