Sale ends todayGet 30% off any course (excluding packages)
Ends in --- --- ---
Discussion and questions related to the course Motorsport Wiring Fundamentals
Hey team, just wondering if anyone can help with identifying these pins, out of the main engine harness connectors on 98 subaru gc8.
Are these dimensions correct?
If so, here is where you can buy them. They list wire seals on that link as well. The one with a gold ID is gold plated and will be a bit harder to find in small quantities. The part number for those is in the link also.
If these dimensions are not correct, can you include measurements like the ones above, as well as the plug they go in, and I can try assist further.
Callum you are the master pin finder
Does anyone where to get these pins plug is a idle air control
What is the engine out of? Also, can you include some measurements of the contact, as well as the width of the mating contact?
OK car is a 1971 ford Falcon V8 (Australian) that I have converted to EFI the plug is for idle air control (ford) which is mounted on the throttle body
Pic 1 is idle air control
Pic 2 is the plug
Pic 3 is the packet the plug came in
The rest are measurements
So that would be your car in the picture? 71 would be an XY, right? Nice project! Here is a place that sells them, or search Ford part number E8EB-14474-AMA. You could try a local Ford dealer. If it were me, I would pot the stepper motor out to a flying lead and stick on a DTM connector.
yep it is the one in the picture built it from a bare shell took my 15 years still can,t leave things alone ah ah
building a new loom for it now
it has a Haltech elite 2500 ECU in it I will look into this flying lead I learn as I am going
Ford dealer I would not bother I took the plug to an auto electrician and could not help will not be going to him again
found the plugs with pigtails on ebay
This is me upon seeing your work... Very nice Garry, very nice! Especially going the EFI route!
To make a flying lead, tin (with solder) the contacts on the IAC, strip some insulation of a couple of lengths of wire & fold the bared copper conductors over on themselves to make a small 'V' and tin the bare conductors (with solder). Then put them in the IAC & reflow the solder to join the copper conductors to the IAC contacts. Next, check that the thing still works when powered, then put some DR25 the lead & recover it down. Clean & abrade the IAC valve end of the DR25 & poke it down into the IAC valve connection cavity. You then want to fill the cavity with either ResinTech RT125, Hellermann Tyton V9500 or TE S1125 epoxy and let that set. Once set just recover some SCL or a heatshrink moulded boot over it and terminated the other end to a DTM connector... or just plug in the lead you already have and then recover some SCL or a heatshrink moulded boot over that (to seal it from moisture & dirt) then terminate the other end with a DTM connector... both ways will work, however the first way will be more reliable... and elegant... whether it's worth the extra time & effort is up to you (although it is a handy skill to have).
When looking for Ford connectors, I find this document handy:
I think 2-cavity WPT-1057 is similar to the connector you picture (just a different color, housing style). Looking further into the document you will find 1057 is used for Idle Air Control.
Googling WPT-1057 will find several sources for this pigtail, and you can probably also get it through a Ford dealer's parts department.
if you like the picks Callum you will love this click the link then click on the pick of my car turn the sound up mate
It's a manual as well Garry!!! I had to wait to use a work colleague's Instagram... then hide the fact I was then nursing a sem... what I meant to say was; very nice sir, very nice!
yes mate it has an alloy case Bullnose in it