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3000gt aem v1 help

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hi i have a 91 3000gt twin turbo with a handful of mods running an AEM V1 EMS can anyone give me help with my tune and cal make sure things are setup properly and im not chasing my tale

Post some datalogs first, and screenshots of many tables you want checked.

Was hoping to find someone I could send my cal to and have looked over or even teamview it thru my laptop. Getting on here is limited sometimes and figuring how to upload things sometimes get messed up. I will try and figure it out hope someone can help me get it smoothed out and running right

heres some screen shots of things not sure if set right and a copy of my map and log

Attached Files

have a bad lean flat spot with light throttle movement hold throotle and will slowly from lean to normal

any help?

Without logs of the situation you want to fix, people on the internet are going to have a hard time predicting what's working well and what's working badly in your calibration. There are enough options and settings that a tuner might be able to set one table wrong and then compensate in other places to result in a car that drives OK anyway.

It's been a long time since I used that version of AEM EMS, but here's what I remember. Tuning acceleration fuel is not very straightforward in that ECU, there are a lot of tables that all interact so you can certainly waste time if you're adjusting the wrong ones. Personally I'm not a fan of using the dLoad accel tables, I usually set them to zero and work only with the throttle-related accel tables. Before doing any acceleration fuel tuning, you need to make sure the main fuel map is tuned well enough that the engine runs at your desired AFR when you press the throttle slowly, or hold it in a cell in the fuel map. This is pretty easy to do on a dyno that can hold a constant RPM. After you're sure the main fuel map is tuned well, I would set all the tables from your screenshot IMG_7845.jpg flat at 50%, zero out the lower-left table (dTPS Accel), and then go up in small steps adjusting only that table until the throttle response feels better. The breakpoints for the table are the throttle rate of change, so the left-side of the table will be used when you press the throttle slowly and the right-side will be used when you smash the throttle quickly. Try to be consistent in all your testing, and later if you need to make additional changes depending on RPM or coolant temp you can adjust the other tables for that.

That was the first generation of AEM standalone, I had one in my car for thousands of miles and it worked pretty well. After a couple years I switched to the Series2 AEM EMS and thought 'wow this drives better'. I don't remember the details but the processor from that first generation EMS was a mid-90's or late-90's design and simply doesn't update all its calcs as often as a newer processor can. A few years after that I switched the same car from an AEM Series2 EMS to the current-generation AEM Infinity ECU and again the car felt like it drove a little better with each new generation. I suspect you would have a similar experience if using multiple generations from other manufacturers also.

There's a decent video on youtube where a customer described how they tune our Series2 generation of EMS; it's worth watching because the tables and options are pretty similar to what you have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4HJ-ZKMN2A

Hope that helps,

SB

Yes it does help thanks a lot Scott Borg. I been trying to go thru my cal all over again anyway I can send you my cal and let you tell me what you think? I’ve changed a good bit on it Spence the post and have it running a lot better. Still have a handful of questions on few things like to have cleared up a little just make sure I’m on the right track. This is my daily driver toy I have several logs also can send. I’d love to switch to a newer system like the v2 or infinity system but I have this one already and don’t see why can’t make it work right like has many years befor the newer came out also the new systems are way to pricey if was buying one for the first time I’d get the newer but then be in the same situation I’m in now when a new system comes out no one wants to bother with the older ones and then your out the $$$ the one you bought then the price of the new one. Anyways lol I watched the video series several times a lot makes sense some was rushed thru a little. Looked up a infinity class was a 2 part on YouTube also but didn’t really do much kinda talked in a circle lol. I don’t have a dyno this is all street tuning (what a lot do simple fact an awd dyno pretty pricey peace of equipment to buy to just learn how to tune befor can ever use to make money back with) alt of the small details is what I’m wondering or trims to figure out on the settings like knock senor setup and the coil dwell for my car Mitsubishi coils have diff setting than the 3000gt cal which one do I use little things lol

The basic concepts from most of the tuning videos here on HPAcademy should apply to the ECU you have, just remember it's a pulsewidth system so you won't be adjusting airflow tables or injector flow data. It can do closed-loop O2 feedback from a wideband sensor. Things get tricky if you've already seen the HPAcademy courses about tuning basics but still want someone else to look at your data and suggest changes. AEM officially stopped supporting that generation of ECU a couple years ago, we can't buy most of the replacement components needed to fix the hardware and most of our current employees have never used the Series1 software. The ones that used it 10 years ago have spent the past decade working on new projects, they don't usually remember enough to help as much as a tuner who has continued to support customers who still have it on their cars. Your best bet is probably to find a tuner who is experienced with that ECU, ideally on that same type of car. Look for something like a 3000GT forum, or shops that specialize in working on them. Finding someone to help with remote tuning via datalogs might work also.

Configuring the knock feedback on the Series1 EMS is pretty similar to the Series2 EMS, and not too different than the other standalone systems I'm aware of. There is a table for assigning the base level of background noise, and if the knock sensor detects the voltage go above that noise threshold then the ECU can retard ignition timing or add fuel in attempt to prevent detonation. Since the logging is relatively slow, it's pretty common to see the ECU's knock retard kick in even if the logging didn't capture the knock voltage when it was above your noise floor.

Years ago the guys from drifting.com made a DVD about engine tuning using a AEM Series1 EMS. It's been long enough that I don't really remember what it covers, but their website still shows you can still buy it.

Hope that helps,

SB