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Any need for a knock block if the ECU has comprehensive knock monitoring??

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I have a Link G4X which has capacity for knock input and full knock control capabilities. If I am going to be connecting the knock block/ears to the same sensor anyway, couldn't I rely on the ECU audio spectrograph reading from the wired in knock sensor?

I am only tuning this car, as I am learning to tune for fun and to help me be more self sufficient at the track, so being able to take the knock block to multiple cars isn't a benefit to me.

PS: accidentally put two question marks in the title, didn't mean to seem impatient.

I think the main key here is that you want to use the knock block bot for its visual representation through software, buy for audio to a good set of headphones to actually here whether there is detonation vs trusting filtered signals mapped out on a screen.

I use the tuner nerd kit for both audio and visual while also using my haltech elite's built in knock control to have some sort of safety while doing full power ramp runs. I have found that over my first few cars, some cars have their knock threshholds set incorrectly and were actually not knocking at all whilst one other was knocking at mid rpm at peak torque without it registering. I would absolutely use any form of audio knock detection you can until you have sufficiently set up the knock control parameters on your link g4.

^^^ Yep Exactly. And not sure about the G4x but there are anomolies with the G4+ when logging knock. I've had situations where it will pull timing where it has not logged the knock level exceeding the threshold and you start to doubt yourself and start looking for things that don't exist and/or miss something that is happening.

If you don't want to spend the money on electronic knock detection make some with copper pipe, dive hose, a brass T and ear defenders. They do work and you will hear it. It will help you confirm your ecu detection.

Cheers for your input guys, I've decided to see if I can borrow some external listening devices for the initial tune and to get knock control configured correctly. I was hoping to be able to make tune tweaks at the track and use the internal knock control to gauge if it's safe, but it sounds like that might lead to disaster if the internal knock control isn't spot on.

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