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From Nissan opto 360 TO AEM 24-1 Cas disc

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i have a AEM 24-1 disc at home and whant it to install in my CAS.

So get the nissan opto 360 disc out of it.

What are the settings needed in link ECU instead of "Nissan opto 360"when i upgrade to the AEM 24-1 CAS disc ?

I looked already i see trigger 1 and 2, but what all need to select?

Once i have those correct settings for link i now how to proceed with sync etc.... and with timing light to set correct base timing.

Just need to adjust it correct because car is already mapped on it.

Have you expreiance any issue with the oem 360 cas disc ???

offcourse, otherwise i wouldn't install it.

aftermarket cams :p

just need the settings for it

I do have a customer with rb26 with Toda racing cams and still using oem 360 disc .without any issue .engine spin 8500rpm.a the moment i don't have my laptop with me to lookup the settings for you with hall 24+1 aem disc.

You would need to use the 'multitooth' trigger mode. For Trig 1 set the position to cam and tooth count to 24. Trig 2 can be set to 'cam pulse x1'. The rest of the settings should be the same as for the factory Nissan CAS.

Just a point I would make having had experience with a 24/1 trigger disc in the RB26 before - It's not a fix for all the potential problems you can see with these engines and if you have sufficient cam train harmonics you can still see trigger problems. All is not lost though and if you find yourself in this situation you can add a crank trigger wheel and retain the 24/1 disc as a sync pulse (just using the single trigger input as Trig 2).

Bellotech. Post a logfile showing RPM and RPM ROC. I bet it have problems With timingscatter without anyone knowing. Or do a Power run while looking at the timingmarks With a timinglight.

To kickerzx next time the car will come for a tune i will safe a logfile and post it .for now car is in the body shop and might take a wile.

Hi everyone, need some help on this topic if possible.

Andre, when you say all the other settings as per Nissan, what are those?

I've got both trigger wheels, and I was trying to use the nissan one, but I just don't understand enough on this topic.

If someone could share a snapshot of the trigger menu settings for either AEM or Nissan wheel, I would be grateful ( including the firing order and injector phase windows please - 1342 for some reason is just not working well.. i need to verify if im on the TDC of cyl 1 or 4 to be honest)

I've attached a snapshop of what i had that started the car but was running on 2 cyl.. (i know it's a mess.)

Thanks

Attached Files

Good day,

I have attached the setting from the Base Map for a SR20DET on a EMU Classic. I have also attached the said base map.

Hope it helps!

Frank

Attached Files

Hi Frank, thanks for the help! I will try this soon!

Just a quick one. why is it starting on 2-1-3-4 and not 1-3-4-2? is that something to do with the nissan trigger wheel?

Thanks

They probably just use the slit on the cam signal that comes before #2 Cylinder to sync everything.

The slit on the CAS of SR20DET for the cam signal have different width, you could probably use different setting on the ECUMaster to make it start on #1, but I never had problem using these base settings.

Edit : If you ever use the scope function, you will find that the cam signal is decoded in the ECUMaster as series of 2 pulses at different interval (depending on the slit width on the cam trigger wheel). If I'm not mistaken, ECU Master count the number of slit of the primary trigger (crank signal) that happen during the opening on the slit of the secondary trigger (cam signal). So it wait for either 4, 8, 12 or 16 pulse (setting called "Nissan sync window width" in the secondary trigger menu) to sync. So with these current setting from the base map, when 4 crank pulses happen between 2 cam pulses, the ECU knows what piston is where, and start the firing order, from cyl #2 in that case. Also as a quick note, ECU Master convert the 360slit of the crank signal to a 60 teeth multitooth signal.

You can always refer to the help file by clicking on the blue question mark (?) icon of each menu, it is very helpful!

Frank

I second Andre. I went through all of this on my rb26 and found that on the G4 the “low resolution” setting with the factory trigger yields the about same result as the 24-1 disk. (I did both, and the disk install isn’t fun). Ultimately I couldn't use either solution and switched to an NZ wiring reluctor pickup. Its completely worth it.

also timing belt tension has effects on the signal.

Yeah, a good crank trigger is a must for these. Especially with the price of a RB26 block nowadays... it's a really good investment. I personally like the PRP ones.

Like Frank said, get a trigger kit, good luck getting the stock disc out. You have a 50-50 chance the pin is seized inside and you will damage the unit.

Prp kits are doing the job but their sensor and wires are of poor quality and they’re not cheap. The triggering method is far more reliable than stock unit after 30+ years haha.

Hi guys, appreciate the help.

Ive used the settings provided for the trigger, with the 2134 order, and after swapping the trigger wheel around, it did start right up!

(My CAS is brand new P12 one gents, so no issues with taking it appart)

Once i get this into a position where i plan to rev to 9/10k rpm, i will look into a different trigger set up. Ive seen the effects on a mate's car and i completely understand the benefits.

For now, just stock VE engine tune.

Really Really grateful Frank! Cheers

J