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Sr20det on ecu master classic ecu. initially I had a problem with no spark to the coils in the testing phase. After lots of research, I discovered that the jumper harness they supplied is for the j series ecu of the sr platform, I have a 60 series. I picked up a jumper from wiring specialties (before having ordered the courses on building your own harnesses) and swapped the 6 wires around to match into the harness I had. Now i get spark during the testing phase, and thought I had everything configured correctly, but found that i still cannot get my engine to do its first start up.
I am at the point of throwing the whole project out from frustration as i have been fighting for the past 5 years to get this to a drivable point.
here is a full build and spec list for the most accurate advice possible:
forged rods and pistons, block was sleeved to stock 86mm.
1.1 mm metal cometic hg.
arp main, rod, head, flywheel bolts.
oem oil pump
all new gaskets and seals
Brian Crower valves, and stage 3 cams
tomie type A springs
new rockers and hydrolic lifters, shims, and tomie ras.
p2m light weight pulleys, p2m adjustable cam gears
Greddy style intake
megan exhaust manifold
3 inch piping through out
Arashi td06 h 601 journal bearing turbo 7+7 blade
full cat back 3 inch exast
stage 4 unsprung 6 puck clutch
one piece drive shaft
short throuw shift kit
billet fuel rail
evil energy ptfe 6an fuel lines through out
255lph fuel pump
50mm fuel filter
oil filter relocation kit with oil cooler
five o 750cc injectors flowed to 758cc on cylinders 2 and 3 762 on cylinders 1 and 4 at 3 bar
split fire coil pack ( relocated grounding cable to head as suggested)
full front and rear suspension upgrades,
upgraded breaking system
glowshift wb afr 4.9 bosch
any advice at this point would be most appreciative. all the sensors, inputs, and outputs check out, tried fueling table starting at 20 and uping to 40 across the table, and tried adjusting the timing from 15 degrees of retard to 10 degrees. everything reads in the green, and no errors are being detcted.
I have a reflashed ecu that will crank the car, but the tune is off for the setup and would rather use the stand alone as it is more accurate and I wont have to send it out to another state for reflashing it again.
Do you get RPM displayed in the software when cranking?
Are plugs wet and is it sparking when cranking? Does it give a cough or backfire or any signs of life?
Have you put a timing light on it and checked base timing is close?
Garage kept, no moisture issues.
Spark in test mode, fuel in test mode, both in proper order.
No one here to help so not able to pit timing light on it.
Turns strong but no sounds of it cracking, but scope says I'm getting good signal.
Not finding an open/close mode anywhere in the program.
Also se it to enable cranking without cam sync, and changed from the primary crancking parameters from 45 degree to the recommended 50, 55, and 60 degree.
Wet plugs would indicate that there is fuel being delivered while cranking. Is it possible the ECU is configured with an ignition switch input (ie, a run/stop), and it's not in the run state?
Not to my knowledge, but will check on that.
Are plugs wet and is it sparking when cranking? "no moisture issues."
I think you missed the point. I mean are the spark plugs wet - as an indicator that there is fuel being injected.
"Spark in test mode, fuel in test mode, both in proper order." This only confirms the outputs are wired, it doesnt confirm that your ecu config is correct and it is getting valid engine position and sync. You need to check there is a spark when cranking and wet plugs will confirm there is fuel.
"Also set it to enable cranking without cam sync," You cant do that with a nissan trigger, there is no unique event in the "crank" pattern so you will need the "cam sync" for it to know where TDC is.
"No one here to help so not able to pit timing light on it". This is one of the most basic fundamental checks you can do. Why cant you put a wire on the starter solenoid and trigger it yourself from the engine bay?
"and changed from the primary crancking parameters from 45 degree to the recommended 50, 55, and 60 degree". You will be there a long time if you just change settings blindly. You need to put a timing light on it and confirm.
Also, you didnt answer this one: Do you get RPM displayed in the software when cranking?
Thought you referred to connection plugs. My bad.
Shows rpm., unplugged one coil and put sparkplug in it and cracked to confirm spark. I can smell.fuel when cranking so I know it's getting fuel. Was told by ecumaster to enable crancking without cam sync, and was told that the primary trigger tooth is usually between 50 and 60, thus the changing it.
This is my first standalone, and while have watched all the content from hpa on the subject, as well as ecumaster videos, and talked to lots of people, it's just not firing.
Changed plugs, coils, cas, physically changed cas angle ( adjusted it within the head via 2 screws) and tried a 3rd cas. It's in the configuration, because it starts on refreshed ecu for a different setup but runs very badly on that one.
As for the timing light question , I have not been able to get it to work right. Even on refreshed ecu it does not seem to get signal from wire, but I can pull it out and watch it sparking for few seconds before engine dies out.
Idle fluctuates between 950rpm to 2500 on rwflashed ecu, and is using a maf with the very aggressive cams. Also wont go over 5000 rpm without bogging and afr is extremely rich...but I dont have the ability to reflash the stock ecu myself as it ed requires physical tools I dont have to reprogram the chip that was put into it.