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Honda b18 distributor used for cam and crank signals

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I am using the 24 tooth wheel for crank and 1 tooth for cam on an ecumaster classic. The problem is I can't get this thing started. I have used my oscilloscope and the one on the ecumaster and it's a good signal. I think the issue is I don't know how to get it configured. In primary trigger I have the tooth amount as 12 teeth because it's 24 tooth on cam so halved because it's on the cam which made it better. Before when I had it as 24 tooth it wasn't doing anything now it's at least backfiring back through the intake, so I know the offset is off but I'm just not wrapping my head around how ecumaster wants this achieved. Also I'm using a wasted spark coil just for simplicity and cost.

Any ideas anyone. Please 🤦

Do you have a scope log?

Your on the right track with entering 12 teeth into the primary trigger as thats how many teeth the ECU will see with each crank revolution.

When you oscilloscope it are you doing it at the ECU or at the distributor?

Generally I'd have entered the settings and cranked it over with the timing locked, fuel off and using a timing gun look for where its firing cylinder #1. Change the "first trigger tooth" setting until you are close to having the light flash on the TDC mark and then use the "trigger angle" setting to get it the rest of the way, or clock the distributor.

Attached is settings I used to get an AEM 24-1 trigger wheel working on an SR20, hopefully this leads you in the right direction

Attached Files

Just to check are you useing the dustributor as a cam sensor?

Hi I decided to just make a trigger wheel on the crank and use the distributor for the secondary trigger. Everything is good now in terms of the timing light is constantly flashing with timing lock at 0. Everything is lined up nicely I think I just need to figure out how this ecu is designed to control wasted spark, it's not really making much sense as to how they are saying to do it. Nonetheless the car starts and runs but runs like it's on 2 cylinders. Going to do some more checks tonight.

Ahh thats awesome. Yea just gotta start somewhere and work and check everything bit by bit. Eventually you fix all the things.

Some advice if you want. I always tell my guys get a solid star point ground going. Most common issues are bad grounds. Some ECUs break if you unplug connectors while its running. So make sure all your wires are connected at all times. It usually blows a driver or so. Can easily be fixed by replacing the mosfet transistors. Not all ECUs do this but mine do.

Feel free to ask here if you need any help sounds like you got a nice build going here

Hi guys many thanks for the input. And sorry for the late response. It's been busy. So as I said in the last post with the trigger wheel on the crank, it starts but doesn't run on all cylinders. I check for spark on all wires and injectors using a noid light and it seems to be a faulty new injector because it's being triggered but when I pull the spark plugs they are all burning except for that cylinder 3 and there is good compression so I'm waiting for the new injector to arrive. I'll keep you posted as to how it goes when I get it.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

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