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Good day people, I noticed some weird things with my MAC 3 PORT BOOST CONTROLLER.
The first thing was when I was tuning the car on the road with WOT pulls from 2000 RPM to redline on 0.5 bar boost (wich is wastegate spring pressure)so the MAC boost solenoid was basically disabled, everything was fine and the tuning process was lovely. But when i started to the tuning on max and final 1 bar boost I noticed as soon as 1 bar was reached at 3000rpm the Ecumaster EMU CLASSIC would "freeze" up for lack of better word, the software would hang for a few seconds and then refresh again, sometimes it would require me to unplug and re insert he USB before it would log again,
But the ecu itself was not lagging and the car was pulling great and I could still see my AFR on my gauge in the cabin, but when I stopped to check the log and make changes there would be a missing spot or actually a jump where the software hung. Making it very hard to tune the VE,
And secondly, I noticed that when I reach full boost and the Boost solenoid is pulsing it would interfere with my tacho and dropping the needle all the way down , especially in the 5k rpm zone,
Again no interference on the ecu itself as the car doesn't jerk or misfire and there is no trigger error,
With a Toyota Mr2 the ecu is in the rear boot and when I had the engine out I ran a long usb from the boot to through the engine bay into the cabin for ease of tuning with a laptop. Now the boost solenoid runs close to that USB, and at first I thought maybe that's why there is interfere, I had some shielded wires left so I re did the boost solenoid wiring with shielded cabling and grounded the shield on one end to the body.
But the same issue still happens.
Now I've been thinking maybe it's the 12v power source that is feeding the boost solenoid that's maybe getting some interference when the solenoid is at high DC% and messing up the tacho output and maybe the ECU USB output too?
At the moment it gets 12v from the EFI main relay with the 4 coils and 4 injectors, and IIRC the CKT and IAT sensors, next I want to give the boost solenoid it's very own 'clean' 12v maybe from the battery or something, but would it be advisable to run it through its own relay? Because I'm thinking that if it has 12v power from the battery that it might loop the 12 back to the ecu and powering it even with ignition off? Since it grounds at the ecu output wich controls the boost solenoid.
Any advice or comments on the wiring or interference I'm seeing would be appreciated
Sure it isn't interference from the ignition system?
If you drive the solenoid at idle do you get the same symptoms?