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Hey all! I have a issue with a setup id like to pick somebody's brain on.
Its a 1987 Mercedes SL560 I recently got up and running on a 2500. It has a 4 tooth crank and a single sync tooth built into the distributor with a Racegrade dhall HS230 sensor. its about 170 degrees offset from the rotor. We got everything up and running on sequential injection, but now it occasionally seems to lose "home" sync from what i can see from the software. My Home percentage of valid travel is sitting around 50% while running. It doesn't happen consistently, but I'll get 9 home tooth count errors, sometimes it catches itself and stays alive, but for the most part it dies. it'll fire right back up and run happily. sometime it dies within a couple minuets, last week it was running for 15-20 minuets no problem. it has shielded wire ran all the way to the ecu, and my trigger pattern on the scope looks good, no noise from what i can see, until it looks like the home drops out completely and it dies
My air gap is sitting right around .026". I originally had a 4.7k ohm pull up resistor on the signal, which i then removed to use the internal pullup on the haltech to see if that'd net any change, which it didn't. Before i go pointing fingers at anything, I'd like to know if there are any other settings or things to look at that may help diagnose the actual issue. Short of possibly a wiring issue on my part.
Thanks for any input!
Have you experimented with the settings found in Main Setup->Engine->Trigger? Specifically the Filter Levels for the Trigger & Home Signal.
Try to find a reproducible case, then experiment with the settings to see if you can change the behavior. Keep track of what you tried, and the results.
If you can borrow an oscilloscope, then you might want to look at the crank and sync signals to see if there is any induced noise, or offset. If you can find something on the scope, then you can try re-routing, or replacing the wiring / shielding to clean up the signals and hopefully resolve your issue.
Sorry for the late response. I did try different filters and a conditional sync. After some work with haltech we found its been dropping crank signal out entirely, After running it on just the crank sensor. When I originally had a scope hooked up everything looked spot, no noise or anything erratic till it stalled. We're currently in the process of making a different crank trigger setup as the original one was almost impossible to service with the drivetrain in the car (sensor was on top of the bellhousing, either picking up on the torque converter bolts or what looked like what could be very long 'teeth') After that's wrapped up and I re-wire it I'll see if I can replicate it again
Thanks for the input!