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Water Meth Injection - Which Kit to purchase? Wire diag help?

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Hi all

I will try and explain this best as I can

My car is reaching some high intake temps going down the 1/4 mile (around mid 70c) at the end of the track, I have no room to upgrade the intercooler as I have managed to squeeze a 1jz into a Holden TF Rodeo

This little rocket is doing a 10.1 @ 137mph

Since these last runs I have been kicked off the track and been advised to install a roll cage, chute, harness ect..which I have done

While doing these mods, I have decided to upgrade the turbo to a GTX4202, and I asked my tuner for a retune - He said "please install a water meth injection kit before coming down" It is a 6 hour round trip for me so to save some time for us both I will be installing the water meth kit, I am using e85 already

Here is where I get a little lost, I can purchase a basic stage 1 kit, that comes with a map sensor, pump, tank - and use the Link G4 to control when the pump comes on, and use a 4D table - Am I on the right track?

Or I can buy the stage 2 kit that comes with its own controller and run a wire from the pump to the link, when pump is on it will overlay a 4D table

Only reason I would go with the stage 2 is I am not that much of a guru when it comes to running the wires to the Link and understanding the Di inputs and how to set them up

Can someone please point me in the right direction, my tuner was quite busy this day and was unable to really explain it

Cheers,

It sounds like what you're saying is that you want something as simple as possible for fear of making a mistake. For super simple or fast installs for dyno work I keep an AEM V1 with onboard map sensor around to throw on and call it a day. It's super crude but for drag racing or just plain piece of mind it works and is reliable.

Hi

Not exactly sure what you are on about there sorry

So what I am asking is do I purchase the cheap basic water meth kit "https://www.snowperformance.net/stage-1-boost-cooler-forced-induction-water-methanol-injection-kit-stainless-steel-braided-line-4an-fittings-sno-201-brd.asp"

If I do then I will have to wire the pump into the Link G4 ECU

OR

Do I buy the more expensive kit "https://www.snowperformance.net/stage-2-boost-cooler-forced-induction-progressive-engine-mount-water-methanol-injection-kit-red-high-temp-nylon-tubing-quick-connect-fittings-sno-20010.asp"

This kit comes with it's own controller to activate the pump, and do I just run a trigger wire to the DI input to the Link G4 ecu so it knows when its on

Cheers, hope this clears it up a little more

If you’re using the Link to control it, you don’t need to buy a complete kit. You can purchase just the pump, tank, nozzle and tubing. Likely will end up cheaper.

Wiring is pretty simple and straight forward - send a pwm signal from the Link to a relay, then to the pump. Make sure the relay you use is capable of providing pwm.

You could use a SSR controlled by a PWM output from the link to control the pump as required. To be honest that's probably going to be pretty similar to the $30 USD price difference between these kits though so it depends if you want to go to the trouble of adding the SSR and wiring, or you want simplicity.

If you use the standalone controller I'd assume there's a digital output that indicates when it's operating and you would use that to switch boost/ign/fuel tables in the link ECU as required.

I really like my Snow Performance kit that I have with the Stage 2 controller prior to getting a standalone ECU. I had a similar question about connecting both the controller and the standalone ECU to the pump since I now have both. I know that the controller has the ability to disable the logic and remain a gauge when the pump isn't running, so it may be possible if you connect an input to the ECU to disable the meth logic as well, and sort of toggle back and forth.

I doubt both could be used simultaneously as they'll fight for control of the pump. I poked around other forums a bit and a few people reported they were able to do this, but didn't really detail it well enough for me to take a try at it yet. Post back if you do go this route and how it worked out. If I get around to trying it I'll post details as well.

If you aren't concerned with running the system without your Link ECU, and don't really care about using the controller as a gauge or alternate pump control, I would get the cheaper kit or really just a tank, pump, solenoid, and tubing/connectors. I know my Haltech can manage the pump without the controller as a generic digital pulsed output mapped against a user defined table (or maybe using the intercooler spray output that is already defined in the ECU).

There are also several failsafe devices made by the big water/meth companies that can be used as an input to the ECU if the water/meth pump fails on you during a drive. That would probably more helpful than the controller based on what you already have.

The Haltech forums have a few posts on how people set this up, and I saw a few people on youtube doing similar things with other ECUs as well, so I would check Link's forums or resources to see if your ECU can work as the controller. From the courses I have watched, the Link ECU certainly seems to have at least feature parity with my ECU if not better. Hopefully this helps a little :)

Thank you yochu20 & Andre.

I have now ordered the basic kit and will use the LinkG4 to control the pump activation as it already has boost input, no need to use another external

switch to control when the pump turns on, this way I can make it come on when I want (5psi, 10psi whenever)

I have attached a wiring diag, can Andre. or someone conform I am on the right track as I am not that clued up with SSR Relay's

Thanks again for the feedback, I am just trying to learn what I can about this ECU and its capabilities

Regards,

Andrew

Attached Files

You are welcome. Your diagram looks pretty good to me, but I would probably include a check valve or solenoid to prevent backflow when the system is off. Most of the kits include one or both to keep the flow of meth steady so you don't have a few dry seconds of injection if the fluid has returned all the way back to the tank. Also, be sure to prime the system before you head out on the road after installation so that it isn't running dry when you expect it to be spraying.

As for solid state relays, they do the same job as a normal relay without the need for mechanical parts to wear out and normally have faster activation time and can be used with PWM devices. If you have installed another relay the process should be about the same. The one you have in your picture is the one I am using for my fans, and for some of my other small electronics including my meth setup I got the MSD SSR block with 4 relays in a weatherproof housing and I have really liked it so far. It simplified the wiring a bit and looks pretty nice. Both of these options are good, just depends on your taste or need for one or many relays.