What Happened here?

Hi all, first off I'm a new member and just recently finished the "efi tuning fundamentals" course. From Manitoba Canada

sorry for the long post just wanna supply all the info I can

Ive built a 1991 Honda civic si

with a 98 crv b20b4 stock engine

a 60trim ebay turbo(to be replacd)

45mm turbosmart wg

2" hot side piping, 2.5" cold side

Fmic(to be replaced)

Ebay knock off bov(to be replaced)

skunk2 alpha tb and intake manifold

precision turbo&engine 880cc(flow tested at 840cc 2% variance) unknown dead times

2.5" open hood exit

2" wg dump

hondata 4bar map

hondata boost control solenoid

hondata s300 v2 p06 ecu boost control components and eld resistors cut

autometer wideband wired to d14 O2 input(will not idle on d10 eld input)

innovate boost/vacuum guage

k so basically the story goes like this. sunday night the car was out running just fine for 3 plus hours on a conservative tune I've been playing with. provided here as citycruises.skl. datalogs to go along with it aswell sunday1 and sundaycruise1

so Monday I remove the ecu and take it to the local hondata dealer to have boost control components installed and the eld resistors cut. I receive the ecu on Wednesday and plumb and wire in the boost control solenoid Thursday and Friday. Saturday I go to start the car. after the wb completes its 20 second warm up(which makes the engine run differently) it goes to 16.5:1 + afr constant and makes less vacuum on all three vacuum sensors(hondata, innovate, and mechanical test guage) on the same tune. it was a slight bit cooler out that day but my compensation tables shouldn't be that far off.

So after buying a vacuum tester and a compression tester, as I had used it pretty hard the weekend before and was unsure of the condition on this engine already having 300k km. Everything tested fine. cyl 1 181psi cyl2 183psi cyl3 184psi cly4185psi. altho when doing a boost leakdown test I can hear air passing through my crankcase and out the valve cover breather. I still tore the intake manifold, injectors, fuel rail all apart, tried going from bwr thermal intake gasket to hondata, checked all O-rings and sensor gaskets, no difference.

so now comes the interesting part, after hours of internet research and forum searching I have come across 0 answers and am resorting to creating my own post.

hooking my wb up to d14 o2 and d10 causes the car to run differently depending on which it is connected to. when I watch my sensors on s300 manager I can see the eld voltage acting extremely erratic. as in it never goes 0 and is always jumping between .5 and 2 volts in a matter of mili seconds even with nothing connected to it.

when I switch the ecu to closed loop, it goes back to idling normal, pulling -19 to -20 vacuum instead of -17 running back at a 13.8 afr idle and everything seems to stable out seen here in open loop vs closed loop datalog and the openloop run datalog

I'm wondering if the local shop had messed something up in the ecu, if adding boost control components, cutting eld resistors or of if pinning into a11 for the solenoid would cause open loop to not function properly or are my tunes just so far out that its mucking something up. ive uploaded a tune ive been playing with to try and correct it entitled wtf

I will be posting this same write up to hondatas forum as soon as I gain membership

https://www.hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=20731&p=94276#p94276