Discussion and questions related to the course Road Tuning
Im gonna be tuning my daily driver land cruiser 100 series with 1fz-fe, its bone stock and wanted to know how to setup knock sensor properly to avoid doing any damage,
and the other thing is i did do a wot pull with stock ecu using techstream and i found out how much timing the stock ecu uses so im hoping im not gonna be doing any damage but im a bit worried if advance the timing later on the road and ending with light knock below the threshold, so basicly does light knock read much higher the normal noise? like almost double the noise?, and the if i tuning individual cylinder to get flat noise reading between each cylinder would i end up filtering light knock?
the bore size is 100 according to wikipedia but i thought it was 99mm anyway im using oversized piston from toyota size 50 which i think is .5mm bigger so i should be in the 5.7-5.8khz do i use 6khz or 5khz on link ecu and the other thing im not really sure if i understand what is the gain is or what does the value mean should i start with 1 or maybe 4
and for knock target do i need to adjust for map pressure change or can i just use rpm only,
for the knk ign trim cyl1-6 do i zero the values as there is random number 25,50,100,150,200 i just wanted to double check this is knock retard not gain table
The 4-10KHz wideband setting will likely work reasonably well. For all the other stuff you will probably benefit from watching the webinar: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/049-setting-up-knock-control-link-g4-vipec/
Does the 4-10khz work with oem toyota knock sensors?
I did watch the webinar and this is the questions I basically didn’t understand from watching the webinar
i tried different frequency channel and not thing really changed, the gain channel set to 1 but still too high and i tried lowering the individual cylinder gain level to 0.7, but the knk level fluctuate between 400 and 800 sometimes 1000 even after trying to get them equal
i dont think its knocking as it running the same timing as stock ecu but less over 4500rpm by about 4 degree and i tired removing 2 degree and nothing changed,
there is small map sensor fluctuation between 28-29kpa im not sure if it a misfire or not , i tried replacing spark plug and cleaning fuel injector and throttle body, there was huge performance gain but the fluctuation is still there its more noticeable on the link ecu than stock ecu its like a misfire but i think it might be normal
Some of the narowband knock sensors are very sensitive and output much higher voltage than typical. I have no experience with the 1FZ but it sounds like this is what is happening in your case. I would replace the sensor with a common wideband bosch sensor such as 0 261 231 006
ok is it wired in as analog or digital
can i use the same ground as my wideband or maybe using the block as ground?
i have to connect the ground wire with the shield to the ground and not the sensor side like in the wiring diagram from link ecu
Sensor ground is pin 46. The 1FZ normally has 2 knock sensors, knock 1 input is pin 34, knock 2 input is pin 42.
Wire like below:
im using plug-in ecu using stock harness,so i dont have alot of pins what i have is digital input, analog volt, analog temp, and i think i only have one ground which im using for wideband
can i use other donut knock sensor like ac delco? or does it have to be bosch knock sensor, i found ac delco sensor for 20$ and the bosch is about 110$ thats the local price internet bosch is 20-40$
You have to use the knock pins and the ground that I stated above. I have marked the two knock pins in pink and the ground in green on the pic below. I cant tell you what an AC Delco sensor will work like as I have never used one. Make sure which ever sensor you are considering is a wideband type. A common Bosch part number is: 0 261 231 006, if you find an AC Delco cross reference for that it will likely be ok.
i ended up getting plex monitor, i just finished installing it and sensor #2 doesnt work im gonna check the connector later maybe i damaged it by dropping it or drilling it, its reading zero but i think when i plug in the cable the background noise changes in the headset
but my issue is i cant get the can bus to work, the plex monitor is transmitting data but the link ecu cant find or send any data
i have it setup-ed as tx 1mb 11bit, i tried can id 1000 and 1, transmit generic dash 50hz normal format
i got ohm reading from the ecu reading, but im wondering if i have wired the can hi lo backward, i have connected the #2 blue wire with blue wire and the #3 white wire with the yellow wire
does plex monitor need resistor for can
From the Plex manual says it can only receive an OBD2 type message or transmit its own message, it cant do both RX & Tx at the same time. You can set up the Link ECU to output OBD2 if you wish.
If you want to receive data from the plex then you will have to set up the custom stream to match their format. However, I suspect the transmit would be aimed mostly for dynos and logging instruments, I dont know of any ECU's that will allow you to do knock control from a CAN signal.
im just trying to get rpm from link ecu,the thing is link ecu doesnt detect plex
The Plex documentation says it can only receive RPM via OBD2, not a normal CAN message. So in the Link software turn OBD2 on on the port you are using and most receiving devices will only do OBD2 at 250 or 500Kbit.
Im not sure what you mean by "Link doesnt detect plex", did you set up a CAN template to match their format?
i got plex to read rpm, when i said link doesnt detect plex i meant on the can devices page it says cant find a can device but it doesnt matter right now.
any way i wanted to know about standalone ecu in general, do they crash? i was driving normally and the engine died for no reason and the rpm stayed at 2000, it restarted just fine ,my air fuel ratio is within 5% error so i dont know why it died