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How to Degree a Cam: Step 6: Lock Up Cam Wheel

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Step 6: Lock Up Cam Wheel

04.30

00:00 - With our cams both dialled in, our last and certainly not our least important step is to make sure that the cam pulleys are all Loctited and correctly tightened up so that there's no chance of these coming loose in operation and our cam timing moving.
00:16 Remembering also with our VE cylinder head, we also need to retighten and Loctite our cam pulley bolt for our exhaust cam which we'd only temporarily fitted during the process of degreeing the cams.
00:30 What we'll do is we'll start with our inlet cam.
00:34 We're going to remove each of the little locking bolts for our vernier adjustable cam gear, apply a small amount of Loctite and then refit them and tighten them.
00:43 Of course with the design of the SR20 cylinder head, this is going to necessitate us rotating the engine through a cycle so that we can access the bolts that are below the level of the cylinder head.
00:55 Let's go through that process now.
01:32 With our intake cam pulley now tightened correctly, we're going to need to remove the pulley bolt from our exhaust cam pulley so we can access the cap screws beneath that.
01:42 Let's go ahead and remove that now.
01:54 We'll now go through and Loctite all of the locking bolts for our exhaust cam pulley.
02:34 We've got all of our locking bolts for our exhaust cam wheel now tightened up and Loctited.
02:39 Of course now we need to refit our trigger wheel to the front of the cam pulley, and we'll need to Loctite our cam pulley bolt and then torque that to 130 newton metres.
02:49 Let's do that now.
04:01 So at this stage the degreeing of our cams on our SR20 VE is essentially complete.
04:06 There are two small jobs left.
04:07 One is obviously to remove the degree wheel from the front of our crank pulley and we also need to remember to remove the cable ties that we've temporarily used just to permanently engage that VVL mechanism so we could degree the cams on the high lift profile.