Motorsport Composite Fundamentals: Applying Release Agents
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Applying Release Agents
04.11
| 00:00 | In this section of the course we'll continue with our example of using our CRX front fenders that we prepared as our pattern in the previous section. |
| 00:08 | Check back if you need a refresher. |
| 00:10 | We'll be using these as patterns to construct a fibreglass mould, which we'll use later to make some fibreglass and carbon fibre front fenders. |
| 00:18 | This process of making a fibreglass mould uses a very similar wet layout hand lamination technique to what we'll be using to make the composite parts. |
| 00:27 | So, you should expect to see some repetition when it comes time to make the final composite parts themselves. |
| 00:34 | We'll assume the correct PPE and safety precautions are taken at each step. |
| 00:39 | Check back to that section of the course if you need a refresher. |
| 00:42 | But we'll also be mentioning some special considerations as we go. |
| 00:46 | In this module we'll be specifically looking at applying release agents, before moving on to the following modules where we'll cover applying gel coat, lamination, curing, release and any other finishing touches required. |
| 00:58 | Before we get started we need to ensure our patterns are nice and clean. |
| 01:02 | A thorough wipe down with isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth will remove anything that's made its way onto the surface since our last work. |
| 01:10 | After the alcohol has evaporated off we're ready to start applying our release agents. |
| 01:15 | We'll be using the traditional approach of a mould release wax but also follow this up with a PVA release agent. |
| 01:21 | The mould release wax will be Meguiar's Mirror Glaze, also known as Maximum Mould Release Wax. |
| 01:27 | And the PVA will be used which should guarantee we get an easy release. |
| 01:31 | So, let's crack on following Meguiar's instructions. |
| 01:34 | Using a wax application pad or a clean cotton cloth we apply a thin but even coat of wax to the surface of the pattern and right out to the edge of the flanges. |
| 01:44 | Generally, a small circular buffing movement works best to ensure full coverage into every detail. |
| 01:50 | Then we wait about 5 to 10 minutes for the wax to haze up. |
| 01:54 | We should be able to see a thin layer of wax change to a cloudy lighter colour as it dries. |
| 01:59 | Using another clean cotton cloth we use the same buffing motion to wipe off the haze completely. |
| 02:05 | This leaves a very thin film of wax on the surface and it's important to wait another 20 minutes or so for this to fully cure before applying the next coat. |
| 02:14 | 5 to 8 coats is recommended but we'll stick to 5 since we're also going to be using the PVA release agent. |
| 02:20 | This is time consuming but it's worth spending the time to get it right as any release problems could result in much more wasted time. |
| 02:28 | We can also reduce a huge amount of downtime by working back and forth between our two fenders. |
| 02:33 | After the last coat is fully cured we're ready to apply our PVA release agent or parting film. |
| 02:39 | This can be applied in various ways, either sprayed on, brushed on with a sponge or wiped on with a cloth. |
| 02:45 | To keep things as easy and accessible as possible we're using a sponge brush to apply a thin and even film with complete coverage, again right out to the flanges as well. |
| 02:55 | It's simply a matter of painting it on and avoiding any excessive areas with puddles and corners or runs. |
| 03:01 | The thickness of the film should be about 0.1mm or about 5 thousandths of an inch and when dry it should appear glossy. |
| 03:09 | Drying time is between 15 and 45 minutes depending on the ambient temperature but we recommend giving it a good hour. |
| 03:16 | The next step is our gel coat which we'll be diving into more in the next module so for now let's recap what we've done. |
| 03:23 | With our pattern surface clean we need to apply our release agents. |
| 03:26 | Using mould release wax is the traditional method for parts like our CRX fenders and we'll also be using a PVA parting film as an additional safety measure to ensure an easy release. |
| 03:37 | Each coat of wax is applied in an even thin film allowed to haze and then wiped off with a clean cloth. |
| 03:44 | This is repeated to build up at least 5 coats with about 20 minutes between coats giving time for the wax layer to cure. |
| 03:51 | This is followed up with a PVA parting film which is applied with a sponge brush. |
| 03:56 | Again, it's important to get full coverage of the entire surface including all the flanges and to avoid excess causing puddles and runs. |
| 04:04 | Then allow to dry fully which takes about an hour. |
