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Motorsport Wheel Alignment: Step 6: Spanner Check

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Step 6: Spanner Check


00:00 - For step 6, the wheel alignment itself is complete and we just need to finish up.
00:04 We can remove our toe bars and strings and put them away.
00:08 If we've disconnected any adjustable anti roll bar links at the start, now is the time to refit them.
00:13 In our case, we need to adjust the length of the disconnected rear anti roll bar link so that when we refit it, we don't need to apply any force to twist the anti roll bar.
00:23 Crack off a lock nut, adjust as required and retighten the lock nut.
00:27 The last piece of work we need to do on the car before we finish up is a full spanner check.
00:32 We need to pay particular attention to any bolts or adjusters we've used throughout the alignment process.
00:38 You can do this in any way that works for you.
00:40 I prefer to do one corner of the car at a time all in one go.
00:44 Just make sure you're thorough as this is definitely a critical part of the process.
00:49 When you do this, it's usually easiest to jack the car up and remove the wheels again.
00:54 This just gives us better access and more room to fit the tools into the places we need to get to so we can check everything is properly tight.
01:01 In particular I'm going to go through all of the eccentric bolts, toe arms and lock nuts on the coilover bodies but I'll check the major suspension fasteners at the same time.
01:10 Go through your documentation and make sure everything is filled out fully so you know exactly which settings you have so you can refer back to them in the future.
01:18 We ended up being on our targets with -3° of camber and 2.5° of caster with 0 toe on the front axle.
01:26 On the rear we have -2.5° of camber on both sides and 1 mm of toe in per side which is exactly what we were looking for.