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Motorsport Wheel Alignment: Step 6: Spanner Check

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Step 6: Spanner Check

01.48

00:00 - For step 6, the wheel alignment itself is complete and we just need to finish up.
00:04 We can remove our toe bars and strings and put them away.
00:07 If we've disconnected our adjustable anti roll bar links at the start, now is the time to refit them.
00:13 If you have adjustable anti roll bar links, make sure you adjust the length so that there is no force on the anti roll bar with the car sitting flat and level on the setup patch.
00:22 We don't have adjustable links on this car so they've just remained attached throughout the setup process.
00:28 The last piece of work we need to do before we finish up is a full spanner check.
00:32 We need to pay particular attention to any bolts or adjusters that we've used throughout the alignment process.
00:38 You can do this in any way that works for you.
00:40 I prefer to do one corner of the car at a time all in one go.
00:44 Just make sure you're thorough as this is definitely a critical part of the process.
00:49 It's usually easiest to jack the car up and remove the wheels again.
00:53 This just gives us better access and more room to fit the tools into the places we need to get to to check everything properly.
01:00 In particular, I'm going to go through all the eccentric bolts, toe arms and the lock nuts on the coilover bodies but I'll check all the major suspension fasteners at the same time.
01:09 Go through your documentation and make sure that everything is filled out fully so you know exactly the settings that you have so you can refer back to them in the future.
01:17 We ended up really close to our targets with -1.4 and 1.5° of camber and 6.5° of caster in the front left and the front right respectively with 0 toe on the front axle.
01:30 On the rear we have -1.5° of camber on both sides and 1 mm of toe in per side which is what we were looking for.