Practical 3D Printing: Printer Setup

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Printer Setup

06.46

00:00	Before we can start printing, we need to get the printer set up and ready to work.
00:04	You'll likely be familiar with the five P's.
00:06	Proper preparation prevents poor performance, or some variation of that.
00:11	Put simply, good preparation is imperative to quality results with SLA 3D printing.
00:17	Just like we discussed with FDM, some printers are more sensitive to setup variation than others, so just understand that the requirements here could vary.
00:27	Although SLA printing can be quite messy, it's also considered relatively straightforward and trouble free, which is one of the big pluses of this form of printing to many home enthusiasts.
00:39	Let's dive in with the print bed and build plate levelling, because this really forms the foundation for all of the other setup and calibration work, and of course the print itself.
00:50	Correct levelling is paramount to consistent layer height across the entire print area, and therefore the print quality.
00:58	As well as making sure our prints don't fail.
01:01	The reality is, most modern SLA printers will now have an auto levelling built in, utilising some method of measuring the relative height of the build platform to the screen, and then using this information to make adjustments.
01:15	And saying that there are still printers out there with some form of manual levelling, so let's cover that off quickly.
01:22	And thankfully it's fairly straightforward.
01:25	This is assuming the printer is already clean, and of course assembled as per the manufacturer's instructions.
01:31	But we will still be covering correct cleaning procedures towards the end of this module.
01:37	Printers will often have two screws connecting the build plate to the elevator, the part attached to the lead screw that moves the z-axis height.
01:46	We start by slightly loosening these screws, allowing the build plate to move.
01:51	Then, with the vat removed from the printer, we place a sheet of paper over the screen.
01:56	Next we navigate to the position control section on the control panel, and move the printer to the z-home position.
02:03	This will lower the z-axis until the build plate rests just on top of the paper, holding it level.
02:09	From here we can tighten the two screws again.
02:12	We're not quite finished yet though, next we need to hold the paper in the centre and carefully begin to pull it out as straight as possible.
02:21	There will be some resistance, but if we start to notice that the paper is grabbing on one side, so we can't pull it straight, this indicates that that side is slightly lower than the other.
02:31	So with this information, we can slightly loosen the screws again, and then press our hand on the opposite side to the restriction before re-tightening the screws and trying again.
02:41	We might need to repeat this a few times until we're happy the paper can be pulled out evenly, and therefore the build plate is level.
02:49	From here we can reinstall the vat, and we're ready to load our resin.
02:53	This is relatively simple, but recalling our previous discussions, we need to ensure that we're wearing appropriate PPE.
03:00	At minimum, this means nitrile gloves, some form of glasses or goggles, and a respirator.
03:06	If we're working with a new sealed bottle, then all that's really required is carefully pouring the resin into the vat, being careful not to exceed the maximum level line.
03:16	We don't need to always fill to the max line, especially if we're only printing small parts, but we should have at least a few millimetres depth of resin, enough to completely cover the bottom.
03:27	It's worth gently shaking the bottle to ensure the resin is fully mixed through before pouring, although this isn't generally required as pouring will help mix any inconsistencies.
03:38	A side effect of shaking the bottle is small bubbles suspended in the resin.
03:42	While in practice these don't tend to make much of a difference, it's always best to wait a few minutes for the bubbles to disappear, or even carefully mix the resin with a plastic scraper to speed up the process.
03:54	If we're working with a bottle of resin that's been used for a long time, it's a good idea to pour it through one of the disposable filter papers that are often supplied with the printer.
04:05	With that said, if we already did this when the resin was first poured back into the bottle, then there isn't any need to repeat the process.
04:12	With the resin in the vat, we're now ready to start printing.
04:15	However, we don't want to start printing with our designed parts straight away, but rather calibration prints.
04:22	The information we covered in this module naturally continues onto the following module to help us with our calibration, another key process before we start printing our designs.
04:31	Before wrapping up this module, let's jump forward a few steps to after the printer is complete and removed from the printer.
04:38	More specifically, what we do with the printer after printing.
04:42	If we plan on printing again from the same material soon, it's common to leave the resin in the vat.
04:48	Depending on the ambient conditions, some will choose to leave the resin in the vat for long periods of time and give the resin a simple stir with their plastic filter before printing next.
04:58	In saying this, most resin suppliers will advise removing the resin from the vat and pouring it back into the bottle within 48 hours or so.
05:06	This should be done through a paper filter, and to avoid spillage, I've found that placing the filter in a clean funnel makes things a lot easier.
05:15	When removing the resin filled vat from the printer, we need to be very careful that we don't spill any resin down the gaps around the LCD screen as this can cause some serious damage to the printer.
05:27	For the same reason, it's worth removing the build plate before the vat so it doesn't drip in place.
05:32	Cleaning the build platform and the vat is as simple as using isopropyl alcohol and some soft paper towels.
05:38	We just need to be extremely careful of the release film at the bottom of the vat as this will need to get replaced if it gets damaged.
05:45	In this module we covered the steps taken to prepare the printer for work.
05:49	So, before moving on to the next calibration stages, let's recap the key points to remember.
05:54	Leveling of the build platform is fundamental to quality prints, and while this is often done automatically by the printer, other printers will require a more manual approach.
06:04	This involves first removing the vat, placing a piece of paper over the LCD screen, and then loosening the support screws of the build plate.
06:12	Next, we lower the z-axis to the home position so the platform sits on the paper.
06:18	After tightening the screws again, we can check if the paper pulls out straight and make any necessary adjustments if necessary.
06:24	Following this, the vat can be reinstalled, and wearing the appropriate PPE, we can fill the vat with resin, being sure not to overfill.
06:34	After printing, we may want to drain the resin back into its bottle through a filter, and then clean the vat and build plate carefully with isopropyl alcohol.