| 00:00 |
Because gearboxes, transfer cases and differentials generally don't have filters like an engine, the process for changing the oil is simpler.
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| 00:08 |
But there are still some key details to keep in mind, so let's run through it in 4 simple steps.
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| 00:13 |
We first need to get the car into the air as we've previously covered.
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| 00:17 |
For step 2 we'll be draining the old oil.
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| 00:19 |
Place a container beneath the component and remove the fill plug first, followed by the drain plug.
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| 00:25 |
Removing the fill plug before the drain plug allows air to flow in, preventing the fluid from surging out unevenly and making a mess.
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| 00:33 |
The plugs themselves are usually larger than the engine sump plugs and can be hexagonal, square or allen key drives.
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| 00:39 |
Some use tapered threads for sealing, while others rely on a washer or o-ring, which needs to be replaced as part of this process.
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| 00:46 |
Just like the sump plug for the engine oil, it's not uncommon to find these drain and fill plugs rounded or damaged in a way that makes removal difficult or impossible.
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| 00:54 |
Our preferred removal technique is the same, weld a nut to the plug and then replace the plug with a new one.
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| 01:00 |
Once the plug is removed, let the fluid drain completely with the vehicle level, as this ensures maximum removal of dirty oil.
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| 01:07 |
Once drained, for step 3 we need to turn our attention to the drain plug.
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| 01:11 |
Most have built in magnets on them, which collect fine metal particles suspended in the oil.
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| 01:16 |
A light grey paste on the magnet is normal, particularly after break in or through regular wear of gears, bearings or clutches.
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| 01:23 |
Excessive sludge, metal shavings or chunks on the other hand may indicate more serious problems that need investigation.
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| 01:30 |
Clean the plug thoroughly, replace the sealing washer or o-ring and reinstall it, tightening it to the correct torque specification as found in the service manual.
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| 01:38 |
One thing worth noting before moving on is that many components use a tapered plug and the general consensus is that it doesn't require any type of sealant.
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| 01:47 |
However, in practice it's always a good idea to add a little teflon paste or liquid thread sealant to the threads when they're being reinstalled for peace of mind.
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| 01:55 |
Now, it's time for step 4, refilling the component with fresh oil.
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| 01:59 |
Gearboxes and differentials are usually filled from the same port used to check the oil level and the correct oil type, viscosity and quantity can be found in the service manual or online.
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| 02:09 |
Because the fill point often provides very tight access, a simple hand pump is usually necessary to pump the new oil into the component.
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| 02:17 |
Pump steadily and slowly, forcing fluid in too quickly can give a false impression of being full if internal components sit close to the fill hole.
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| 02:25 |
The correct level is reached when the fluid just begins to trickle out the fill port.
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| 02:29 |
At this point remove the pump nozzle, fit a new gasket washer or o-ring to the fill plug, add a little teflon paste or thread sealant and torque it to spec.
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| 02:38 |
For the final step all we need to do is lower the car back down and take it for a short test drive.
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| 02:43 |
Once back, inspect the drain and fill plugs for any leaks.
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| 02:46 |
Remember that just as too little oil can cause overheating and wear, too much oil can also create problems such as aeration, overheating and leaking seals.
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| 02:56 |
So, always fill to the manufacturer's level, no more and no less.
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| 03:00 |
With everything checked and sealed, the job is now complete.
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| 03:03 |
So, let's quickly run back over these driveline component oil change steps before finishing up this module.
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| 03:08 |
Lift the car safely in the air using either a hoist or a jack and axle stands.
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| 03:13 |
Remove the fill and drain plugs and drain all the old oil out into a container, inspect, clean and refit the drain plug, add new oil and then refit the fill plug.
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| 03:23 |
Then finally take the car for a quick test drive to ensure nothing is leaking.
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