Practical Automotive Maintenance: Changing Engine Oil

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Changing Engine Oil

05.36

00:00	In this module we're going to run through the 5 steps needed to successfully change our engine oil, and we'll be discussing best practices for these steps as we go.
00:08	We'll start with step 1 by warming up the car and lifting it up for easy access.
00:12	Since oil becomes thinner as it heats up, it's best to bring the engine up to operating temperature, which is going to help drain out the maximum amount of used oil.
00:21	Simply idling the engine for 5-10 minutes is usually enough.
00:24	Remember though, the components will now be hot, so gloves, long sleeves and safety glasses are advisable.
00:30	Once the oil is warm, the car needs to be lifted safely, ideally on a hoist if possible.
00:35	If that's not an option though, a trolley jack is perfectly fine, but the vehicle must always be supported on solid, level ground using quality axle stands.
00:44	Never work under a car supported only by a jack, and use wheel chocks to prevent rolling.
00:49	With the vehicle warm and secure, step 2 involves draining the oil and removing the filter.
00:55	Locate the sump and the sump plug underneath the car.
00:57	These come in different materials and designs, steel, aluminium and plastic are the most common.
01:03	Steel and aluminium sumps usually have threaded steel plugs with sealing washers or o-rings, while plastic sumps often use twist lock plugs.
01:11	Tools required for this depend on the plug type.
01:13	Most are hex head bolts, and it's always recommended to use a single hex socket on these, as it gives less chance of rounding the head.
01:21	Other plugs might use torques or allen drives, but whatever the case, there will always be a matching tool available.
01:27	It's worth noting that some modern vehicles may not have a sump plug at all, and instead require a vacuum pump or fluid extractor through the dipstick tube to remove the oil from the engine.
01:37	While rare for now, it's a possibility if we're working on a later model car.
01:41	Place a drain pan under the sump and carefully remove the plug and the sealing washer with it.
01:46	It's always advisable to replace the sealing washer during re-insulation.
01:50	It's common on older cars and ones that have been excessively lowered to find the sump plug damaged to the point where it can't be removed with whatever tool we'd normally use.
01:59	This can be a result of physical damage from contact with speed bumps or similar, or by having the hex head rounded as a result of using the wrong tool.
02:07	In this case, removing the sump plug may require welding a nut onto it, which we'll be discussing soon.
02:12	Or alternatively, using a bolt extraction tool.
02:15	With the oil draining, we can turn our attention to the filter.
02:18	If accessible from underneath, try removing it by hand.
02:21	If it's over-tightened, use an oil filter wrench and be prepared for some residual oil to escape into a drain pan.
02:28	Always ensure the gasket seal comes off of the filter and it isn't left stuck to the engine block.
02:34	Once the oil has drained, which can take 10-15 minutes, we can then move on to step 3.
02:39	Cleaning, replacing and torquing.
02:41	Clean the sump plug and surrounding area with brake cleaner.
02:43	Then fit a new sealing washer before reinstalling the plug and tightening it to the correct torque spec listed in the service manual.
02:51	For metal plugs, a medium length 3-8 inch drive ratchet or a long ring spanner followed by a torque wrench is ideal.
02:58	And remember, with plastic sumps, extra care must be taken not to damage the threads.
03:02	Once that's done, we can prepare for the new filter by cleaning the mating surface on the block and lightly lubricating the filter's rubber gasket or o-ring where it'll make contact.
03:12	This can be done by just lightly applying oil with a finger.
03:15	Now, at this point, many people, including us here at HPA, will pre-fill an upward facing vertically mounted filter with fresh oil, so the system can build oil pressure quicker, better protecting the engine on first start.
03:28	However, it's worth noting that there is some controversy here as OEMs were warned against doing this as we're filling the post filter side and it has the potential to introduce contaminants in the process.
03:38	Spin on filters should be tightened until just touching the surface and then given an additional half to three quarters of a turn.
03:45	Cartridge filters on the other hand usually have their torque values engraved on the housing.
03:49	It's important to follow these closely.
03:52	Once the sump plug and the filters are in place, it's time for step four, refilling the engine with fresh oil.
03:57	Lower the car back onto level ground to ensure accurate oil measurements.
04:01	Then refill using the manufacturer's recommended oil type, viscosity and quantity.
04:06	If unsure, we can add oil in small increments and check the dipstick regularly until the full mark is reached.
04:12	But in saying that, this information is always fairly easy to find in the service manual or online.
04:18	And it really only applies if we're running a heavily modified oiling system with a larger sump or even a remote filter.
04:25	Either way, we'll be double checking the level and priming the system now for our fifth and final step.
04:29	It's always best practice to disable the fuel system by unplugging the fuel injectors or removing the fuel pump fuse, and then cranking the engine for 10 to 20 seconds or until the oil pressure light on the dash goes out.
04:42	This primes the system and ensures the new filter is full without letting the engine actually run, reducing potential wear during that first start.
04:49	Once done, we can re-enable the fuel system and start the car.
04:52	Let the engine run for a minute or two and then shut it off and check the dipstick again, topping up if necessary to ensure that it reaches the full mark.
05:00	Some modern cars don't have a dipstick and instead have a procedure that allows us to check the oil level through the infotainment system or on a digital dash.
05:09	If this is the case, information on how this can be done is found in the vehicle service manual.
05:13	To summarize this process, for an engine oil and filter change, there are five major steps.
05:18	Safely lift the vehicle, remove the sump plug and filter to drain the oil, fit and torque up the cleaned plug and new filter, drop the car to the ground and fill the new oil, then prime the system, run the engine and check the oil level one last time.