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In this section of the course we're going to cover some essential practical skills that every enthusiast should be capable of.
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| 00:06 |
Starting with lifting and supporting a car using a trolley jack and axle stands.
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| 00:10 |
This is a task that's simple enough, but can have some disastrous consequences if done incorrectly, both for your vehicle and for yourself.
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We've touched on this a few times already throughout the course, but it's, so important to always remember that the jack is for lifting and the stands are for supporting.
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Never under any circumstances rely on the jack alone to support the weight of the vehicle, as it can and has gone wrong countless times before.
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Dozens of people die every year in just the US alone due to improper jacking and supporting of a vehicle, so it's really not a it's good enough type of job, it needs the proper care and attention.
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| 00:47 |
We also need to be sure that our jack and stands are rated for the weight of the vehicle we're lifting.
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| 00:52 |
This isn't going to be a concern if we're working on a small passenger car or a race car, but some more modern vehicles, especially larger street cars and off-road focused vehicles can quickly exceed the load-bearing limitations of cheaper equipment, so it always pays to check.
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| 01:08 |
Let's start with preparation.
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| 01:09 |
We always want to be working on flat solid ground and concrete is usually best.
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| 01:14 |
Any type of sloping driveway, soft earth or gravel just isn't going to cut it.
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| 01:19 |
As enthusiasts, there's a good chance our cars sit considerably lower than stock, which can make getting a jack under them challenging.
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| 01:25 |
A cheap simple solution here and one that we're always using in the HPA workshop are ramps.
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| 01:31 |
By driving the car up onto these ramps, we're creating much more room underneath the car to fit and position the jack.
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| 01:37 |
The first thing we need to do is apply the parking brake firmly.
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| 01:41 |
If the vehicle is manual, put it in first gear.
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| 01:43 |
If it's an automatic, make sure it's in park.
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| 01:45 |
To prevent rolling, place wheel chocks under the opposite end of the car from where we're lifting.
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| 01:50 |
For example, if we're raising the front, chock both the rear wheels.
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| 01:54 |
Now, let's talk jacking points.
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| 01:56 |
Most vehicles have reinforced points on the sills, just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels, usually marked by small notches in the middle.
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| 02:04 |
These are designed for safe lifting, but with a factory supplied scissor jack that has a slot that the seam sits into.
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| 02:11 |
Using a trolley jack here is most likely going to crush the seam once the weight of the vehicle is loaded onto it.
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| 02:16 |
Any of us who have spent much time underneath cars, we've probably seen their fair share of destroyed pinch seams for this reason.
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| 02:23 |
The good news is that adapters that provide a slot for the seam to sit into are cheap and readily available online or from auto parts stores.
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| 02:30 |
The better news is that the vast majority of vehicles also have a central jacking point at the front and the rear of the vehicle, which allows both wheels on that end to be lifted up simultaneously, making placing two jack stands easier.
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| 02:43 |
At the front, this is often found on a cross member or on the subframe, and at the rear, it may be on the rear differential or a reinforced beam.
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| 02:50 |
If we're ever unsure, it's always a good idea to check the vehicle service manual.
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| 02:55 |
This isn't really something that we want to be guessing about because lifting in the wrong place can do some serious damage that we're not going to notice until it's too late.
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| 03:03 |
Now, let's talk about using the jack and stands.
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| 03:06 |
Roll the trolley jack under the chosen lifting point.
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| 03:09 |
Make sure the pad of the jack is squarely and firmly under the reinforced metal.
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| 03:13 |
Pump the handle slowly to raise the vehicle, lifting only as high as we need to to do the job, plus a little extra, so the stands can be positioned.
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| 03:21 |
These should be placed under solid structural areas like reinforced seal points, chassis rails, subframe mounts or suspension brackets.
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| 03:29 |
Never thin sheet metal or curved surfaces.
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| 03:32 |
Adjust the stands to the required height and lock them.
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| 03:35 |
Then lower the car gently onto the stands by slowly releasing the jack.
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| 03:39 |
The full weight must rest on the stands, not on the jack.
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| 03:43 |
Before starting work we should always perform a stability check by giving the vehicle a firm push from side to side.
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| 03:49 |
It should not rock, tip or wobble and if it does we should stop immediately, reposition the stands and try again.
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| 03:55 |
For extra safety and if it's not going to be in the way we can also leave the jack in position just touching the underside of the car, but the stands are what carries the weight.
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| 04:04 |
When your work is finished the lowering process is straightforward.
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| 04:07 |
First use the jack to raise the vehicle slightly, so the weight is taken off the stands.
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| 04:12 |
Remove the stands and carefully move them out of the way.
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| 04:15 |
Then lower the vehicle slowly and smoothly back to the ground.
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| 04:19 |
Finally, remove the wheel chocks.
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| 04:21 |
Let's summarize what we've learned.
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| 04:22 |
The jack must only be used for lifting while the stands carry the weight of the vehicle.
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| 04:28 |
It's crucial that we always work on solid level ground, securing the vehicle with the parking brake and wheel chocks and using the correct jacking points or adapters to avoid damaging the seams.
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| 04:38 |
Once raised the car should rest fully on properly placed stands under solid load bearing points on the chassis, be checked for stability before work begins and be lowered carefully after the job is done.
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