Practical Automotive Maintenance: Replacing Your Bushes Process
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Replacing Your Bushes Process
04.37
| 00:00 | Now, that we've identified a problem in one of our bushings, it's time to replace it. |
| 00:04 | Depending on exactly which bushing needs replacement and the component design, this can be either a quick job that can be done with basic equipment, in the case of something like a sway bar end link bushing, or a more complex job that will take extra time and tools like a suspension arm bush or diff mounts. |
| 00:21 | Before starting we need to gather all the necessary tools as well as appropriate PPE like safety glasses and gloves. |
| 00:27 | For a simple job this might only mean a jack and axle stands, a socket set, a torque wrench, a pry bar and potentially a mallet. |
| 00:34 | Depending on the bushing that needs replacement, more specialist equipment like a ball joint separator, a hydraulic shot press or a dedicated bushing press is often needed. |
| 00:43 | If you need a refresher on how to use these tools, jump back to the previous modules where we run through their proper operation. |
| 00:49 | Grease is also going to be crucial though most replacement bushings do come with a small sachet included in the packaging. |
| 00:56 | Let's get started. |
| 00:57 | The first step is getting the vehicle up in the air and removing or supporting the parts connected to the offending bushing. |
| 01:02 | A hoist would be ideal here, but failing that we need to ensure that the car is parked on level ground before getting a jack under it and dropping it on axle stands. |
| 01:11 | Depending on the bushing being replaced we're most likely also going to need to remove our wheels to gain access. |
| 01:16 | Once this is done we can start unbolting the connected parts. |
| 01:20 | If these have been on the car for a long time it's a good idea to spray some penetrating oil on the bolts before getting a socket or impact gun on them to reduce the chance of a broken or rounded fastener. |
| 01:30 | Exactly what we need to do next is highly dependent on the bushing we're replacing. |
| 01:34 | So, let's just run through a few quick examples. |
| 01:37 | If it's something like a sway bar it's as simple as removing the end links and the main mount. |
| 01:41 | If it's an engine transmission or diff mount we're replacing, all we're doing is unbolting the mounts themselves and removing them, making sure that the connected components are supported if necessary, so that the weight is taken off them for easy mount removal and that they don't suddenly drop once the mount is removed. |
| 01:58 | This could mean an engine crane lifting the engine from above or another jack underneath the engine transmission or diff to support it. |
| 02:05 | If it's something a little more complex like a suspension component this will need to be unbolted and removed from the car completely, potentially through the use of a ball joint separator as it's going to need a bushing or hydraulic shot press to get the damaged bushing out. |
| 02:18 | Once we've removed the component from the vehicle we can get into step two which is removing the bushing itself, which again depends on exactly what the bushing or mount is. |
| 02:27 | If it's an engine or trans mount we simply need to unbolt and remove it using the crane or jack to lift or drop the component in order to get the mount out easily. |
| 02:35 | If the part has been removed completely we can now take it to a flat surface like a bench top and use a bushing press with the correct cup sizes to push out the damaged bushing. |
| 02:44 | Remember we've already covered how to use this tool earlier in this section of the course so check back if there's anything that you're not sure about. |
| 02:51 | With this complete, step three involves prepping and fitting the new bushing. |
| 02:55 | The housing or mating surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with alcohol and a rag, ensuring there aren't any burrs or other damage and then applying some fresh grease. |
| 03:04 | This will ensure the replacement bushing can be fitted without doing any damage. |
| 03:08 | Now, we can carefully align the new bushing and either bolt it into place if it's a mount or press it into the part if it's a press fit bushing. |
| 03:16 | Dabbing a little anti-seize paste on all the fasteners is also a very good idea. |
| 03:20 | The fourth step is either taking the weight off the engine crane or jack if it's a mount or reinstalling the part with its fresh bushing back into the car. |
| 03:28 | But, and this is crucial, not talking anything to spec just yet. |
| 03:32 | The fifth and final step and an important one if we've been replacing any suspension bushes specifically, we need to drop the car back onto its wheels on level ground before fully tightening up our bushing fasteners to the correct torque specs which can be found in the service manual or online. |
| 03:48 | This is because they need to be secured and sitting normally when the vehicle is at its actual ride height, not at full droop which could cause them to twist or otherwise deform in what would be their natural position. |
| 03:58 | Let's finish up the practical section of this course by summarising what we've just covered on bushings in this module. |
| 04:04 | Step one involves safely lifting the vehicle or the engine in the case of engine mounts and removing the necessary components. |
| 04:11 | Step two requires us to either unbolt or press out the damaged mounts or bushings. |
| 04:16 | And step three, we need to grease up the surfaces and fit the new mounts or bushings ensuring they're correctly aligned. |
| 04:22 | For step four, we'll refit the parts, removing the supporting crane or jack if we're replacing mounts and drop the car back onto the ground. |
| 04:29 | Finally, we need to torque the bushings up to spec with the car on level ground. |
