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This section of the course isn't about learning anything new.
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| 00:02 |
We'll just be condensing the knowledge from the previous modules into three easy to follow steps that we can follow when determining what size wheels to fit to any vehicle.
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| 00:13 |
So, if there's anything here that has you scratching your head, then jump back to the relevant module for a refresher.
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| 00:20 |
This process will have some variability for different applications and depending on what tools you have available, but we'll cover that in our discussions.
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| 00:29 |
The first step is going to involve measurements to understand what's possible in terms of fitment, essentially how much space there is to work with.
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| 00:37 |
But we also want to know other key bits of information like the factory wheel specifications for example.
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| 00:44 |
This is so we can understand the track width and scrub radius as we could end up changing these and they tend to have significant knock on effects.
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| 00:52 |
Note that this is making the assumption we're working on a vehicle based on a factory car.
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| 00:57 |
And even if the suspension has been modified, this is still a sound approach.
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| 01:02 |
But this won't always be the case, like for vehicles with completely custom suspension geometry.
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| 01:08 |
If that's the case, some extra thought will need to go into factors like the scrub radius.
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| 01:13 |
Before getting started, it can be very helpful to search online for the factory specifications for the wheels, tyres and lug pattern.
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| 01:21 |
Or it might even be noted in the service manual if it's still collecting dust in the glove box.
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| 01:26 |
If we still have the factory wheels, it's worth understanding all of their dimensions.
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| 01:31 |
Either by taking measurements or checking the inside around the mounting pad for markings.
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| 01:36 |
Just to be completely sure we know what we're working with.
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| 01:40 |
As we can't always trust online information.
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| 01:43 |
From here, the first and simplest thing to consider is the mounting method.
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| 01:47 |
In other words, what's the lug pattern and centre bore requirements of the wheels based on the hub.
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| 01:52 |
If we don't already know the lug pattern, we can measure it and the centre bore.
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| 01:57 |
It's also worth measuring the diameter of the studs or the bolts so we have all the information.
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| 02:02 |
The same thought process applies to centre lock wheels regarding the hub size, tapers and pattern of the drive pins.
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| 02:10 |
Following this, all measurements are going to be in the interest of understanding our spatial constraints and clearance.
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| 02:16 |
Attached to the hub, the braking package is a critical factor.
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| 02:20 |
With the disc diameter having the most influence over the clearance in the radial direction.
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| 02:25 |
And the caliper size and location relative to the hub being the determining factor in the axial direction.
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| 02:32 |
Measuring the disc diameter is simple if we don't already know it.
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| 02:35 |
And it's also possible to use a straight edge and rulers to understand where the brake caliper is located relative to the hub.
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| 02:43 |
Test fitting a wheel of known specifications, whether that's a factory wheel or not, will help us understand roughly what will clear the brakes.
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| 02:51 |
But with all the different centre disc designs, pad heights, spoke shapes and even barrel profiles, even a wheel of identical specs can see significant differences in clearance.
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| 03:03 |
In some cases, for standard factory brake setups on more common cars, the supplier will be able to confirm if the wheel will fit or not.
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| 03:12 |
But more often than not, extra actions will be required to make sure of this, like using a template of the wheel profile for example.
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| 03:20 |
Test fitting a wheel of known specifications, ideally with a tyre fitted, can also provide good reference for checking clearance to the suspension components, the inside of the wheel well and the guard.
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| 03:33 |
With our knowledge of wheel dimensions, we can get a good idea of how certain changes in the dimensions will influence the clearance and therefore what will fit.
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| 03:42 |
What's critical here is that we consider this over the full range of suspension travel and steering.
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| 03:48 |
And this will require removal of the spring and bump stop to cycle the suspension.
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| 03:53 |
This allows us to take into account camber gain as well.
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| 03:56 |
Although ideally we'll take these measurements using the same static camber we intend to run with the new setup.
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| 04:03 |
But we'll also need to consider any deflection in the suspension and even the chassis and leave an appropriate amount of clearance for this.
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| 04:12 |
In most cases a few millimetres should suffice but it really depends on the car and application.
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| 04:19 |
If we don't have access to any wheels for this, then there are some tools available that are adjustable to simulate the fitment of different sized wheels or alternatively, a straight edge and a ruler will be able to get the job done with some extra effort.
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| 04:33 |
Just remember that the less accurate our measurements are and the more potential for variability with tyre size or even suspension bushing compliance, the more clearance that we should leave.
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| 04:44 |
This really sums up all the general considerations around measuring for wheel fitment, so let's recap the key points.
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| 04:51 |
The first thing we want to do is understand our starting point or the current wheel setup.
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| 04:56 |
While it's helpful to find the factory specifications online, taking our own physical measurement of the wheel and hub gives us the confidence that we've got things right.
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| 05:05 |
From here, we need to understand the amount of brake clearance required as well as the clearance to the suspension components in a wheel well and fender.
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| 05:14 |
But it's critical this is considered throughout the entire range of suspension and steering travel.
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| 05:20 |
We'll always want to allow for some extra clearance as things move with comp iance, but this will depend on the vehicle.
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