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Hello everyone, just joined and purchased the Starter Package. While I have had numerous Subarus tuned by professionals, where I am currently located has limited (if not no) tuning expertise for the 13B-REW. I've also heard stories about the one shop that is local specific to the RX-7 and rotary motor.
So, I figured it was time to learn as much as I can about the "mystical" art of tuning a turbo rotary.
The Car: aka Nadene
Purchased it a few months ago and had every intention to turn it into a weekend cruise and show car. The previous owner is a friend of mine and he previously owned an FB, FC, and the FD was his bucket list car. The car has just at 67,000 miles and was mainly stock when I purchased it with the exception of an APEXi Power FC w/ Commander, mild street port rebuild with full 3" Exhaust and upgraded aluminum radiator, stronger clutch, and eBay coilovers.
So, I noticed it had a vacuum issue, investigated and found a broken check valve, a few cracked vacuum hoses and a broken solenoid. This explained why after the first acceleration run the 1st turbo was strong dip 2nd turbo comes on strong, shift, 1st turbo comes on strong... nothing... all the boost from the 2nd turbo wasn't there.
Then I did what I do to every car I buy used, I brought it into the garage, developed a plan, and tore the entire car apart (for the most part).
I am or have upgraded to the following:
Turblown BorgWarner IWG EFR 7670 turbo kit; upgraded intercooler, upgraded fuel system (Supra TT fuel pump and ID1050x(primary) and ID1700(secondaries) with Aeromotive FPR and gauge, Removal of the "RATSNEST", upgrading ignition system, upgrading to dual oil coolers, upgrading the intake system, upgraded to HKS Hipermax IV GT coilovers, purchased second set of wheels (Gram Light 57DRs) and tires, upgraded rear toe links, and vinyl wrapping the car.
For electronics I am adding the FC Dataloggit and Editor, BT module to utilize Android Tablet to monitor, OLED Commander, Gizzmo EBC, new spark plugs and wires, and a new single turbo engine harness, as well as remote mounting the battery to the passenger side rear compartment, plus I added a Boost, EGT, and Wideband AFG gauge, but will require an additional EGT gauge and Oil pressure, coolant temp, and I am looking into adding water/methanol injection.
Additionally, I will be adding a VIS carbon fiber vented hood, a rear diffuser, and will be doing some more heat management in the engine compartment.
So I am looking forward to taking these courses and learning how to read the data and make minor changes to the APEXi PFC to ensure I have the proper AFR to ensure it is rich enough to prevent going lean as well as add additionally cooling to the rotor housings!
There are two prettygood Webinars about rotary tuning in the archive.
Love those FDs, too bad i decided to buy a skyline and not a rx 7 ~11 years ago.
Sounds and looks like an awesome build. Can't wait to see it come together.
As mentioned above there is a few webinars which might give some guidance on rotary tuning. I have posted below for you, although these are specific to the Link ecu, the same rules essentially apply to any ecu.
Thank you A0er, and yes, the FD is a beautiful car, and in the late 90's I choose the 3000GT VR4 (GTO) which was a fantastic car as well. And up till most recently we couldn't get the Skylines in the US.
Hello Chris. Thank you for the links, I will find those extremely helpful. A lot of people have said I was too ambitious with this build, but everything I am purchasing (for the motor) is set in providing the most heat transfer from the rotors as possible, while removing a lot of the original systems that were acting like heat blankets on top of the motor. The added benefit is I can support a little more power plus everything in the engine compartment is able to be simplified.