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my ongoing saga of an '05 honda type r

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My 2005 Honda Civic (EP3) Type-R

Its a JDM import - premiere edition with "C" options package thats been de-badged and de-stickered

A closer ratio 6 speed with helical LSD than you'd find in the US/UK spec cars

129000 km's at time of purchase

Bits added so far...

Tints and a headlight polish

Haltech Elite 2500 ecu

Haltech EP3/DC5 plug n play wiring loom adapter kit

Haltech Canbus single Wideband O2 kit

Haltech oil temp, knock and air intake temp sensors to replace or add to the factory sensors used

A 4 way adapter to let you run extra oil sensors from the factory location - So a port for the factory sensor + 3 ports for pressure, temp and a feed out to say a turbo.

1000cc Xspurt injectors - a set of 4 that were dynamically flow matched to within 1% of each other by the reseller MSEL here in NZ

Delco iridium plugs

Dynapac dyno used to set the timing map with the dyno's plex monitor used to get a safe timing map at the time (not done by me)

Tunernerd Knock Monitor Pro v3 kit for myself and my experiments

215x45x17 Bridgestone RE003's instead of the factory size 205's

A decat pipe is currently in use (otherewise I'd melt the cat while I'm experimenting with the tuning) - otherwise it's a full factory (JDM) exhaust and manifold

A front strut brace

A brake master cylinder brace

A new battery to replace the weak old one that died as winter kicked in.

An upgraded delron steering rack slider bushing

Petronas engine oil, Motul gearbox oil

Intake pipe and Pod filter.

Notes about things:

We set the valve lash to factory specs last weekend and the car picked up a disturbing amount of power for a non turbo with a factory exhaust - so much so that I'm reinstalling the knock monitor to check if I'm in danger of blowing the guts out of it :\

Yes the specs used were correct and I had multiple people double check and confirm it and also verified the clearances against 2 different workshop manuals for the k series.

However "too good to be true" springs to mind. We cant hear knock - we cant notice knock on the logs and we cant see knock speckles on the plugs - but I still cant believe that its safe, so ended up dropping a tonne of timing until the next free weekend rolls around to re-check it with the tuner pro knock monitor.

I tried the tune with multiple fuel/ignition maps against every 10deg of cam angle and have reverted back to a single map for each - fueling became a lot more consistent this way.

The alternator control with the Haltech base map on my engine drove me to (even more) madness - and flat batteries - almost to the point where I wanted to remove the Haltech and go back to the factory ecu for a daily driver - It still isn't "perfect", but now at least the car charges the battery consistently and holds a constant 13.9-14.2v now

The factory air temp sensor is SHITE and the sensor body is plastic and sits in a rubber intake pipe near the top of the engine bay and actually heat soaks so badly in the factory mounting location that it'll read over 60c in summer in rush hour traffic and can be out by over 30ish deg c in some traffic conditions - installed the Haltech IAT sensor and its a lot more consistent.

I have done "a few" oil and filter changes - yes - far too many in the number of km's I've had it so far - but flushing things on an unknown engine is not bad - when it drops enough to top up - I change it instead

I'm not sure if I like the Motul gear oil - the factory Honda gear oil works from cold - the Motul needs to warm up a bit before gear changes are nice. Its a good reminder not to thrash it when cold I guess :)

The intake pipe and pod filter are more than a little loud now - I might swap back again if it gets too much notice.

The tyres are wearing well so far and don't like frying them but the wear is better than expected and the grip is outstanding to the point where I don't feel happy trying to find its limits on a public road.

The want list includes:

Haltech oil pressure and flex fuel sensors.

A return style fuel system (currently its deadhead)

Rubber covered pillow ball replacement suspension bushes

K-Mac castor / camber top plates for the factory springs

Alcantara retrim for the factory airbag momo wheel

Digital dashboard

A full detail and full paint correction

2021 - 5/4/22 updates

Bought a run around car so the civic doesn't get too many extra k's (and I can get cheaper and better insurance) - so enter the daily hack - a 1995, 5 speed, 3 cyl, 900cc Suzuki Cultus - i don't drive that much - but I filled it with the cheapest fuel back in late Feb, its still what you'd call "full" and I'm also seeing how many cobwebs I can collect around the fuel filler.

Civic mods - well, its on its 3rd intake now to see what different intakes will do for intake air temps and perceived power. I don't want to cut the plastic between the bonnet and the windscreen to fit a snorkel intake, and the under-bonnet pod filters seem to turn into hot air intakes fairly quickly... So the 4th intake is coming up at some stage - I'm just going to re-test and log temps again with the factory intake package in place again but with a different air intake temp sensor to currently before embarking on round 4 of the not-cold air intakes depending on how things turn out later on.

Installed a full set of Hardrace rubber suspension bushes all through the front and rear - no squeaks or rattles - super happy - can recommend spending on these.

A Hasport billet engine mount kit (70a option) has been installed - not really suitable for a daily driver if you dont like NVH related issues.

I've installed an Acuity hall effect tps sensor. If you run stiff engine mounts the factory tps sensor will fail "soon" after installing the new engine mounts. I preempted the stuck-at-side-of-road bit and installed the new sensor at the same time as the mounts.

I had some Bilstein shocks on order - but there were large issues with the time frames after ordering on these, so I ended up canceling and refunding this. Now I'm thinking about what sort of shocks to get to replace these ones. Coil-overs are not an option on this car if I want to keep it street legal, unfortunately.

Had the headlights professionally re-done as the home polishing did make them clear, but they faded again in a few months. This time they were sanded back and then some sort of vapor wafted over the surface that bonds / binds into the plastic surface and creates a UV coating and also makes the headlights optically clear again from their sanded finish - this is also guaranteed for many years without fading even if left out in the sun all the time - super nice results - very happy - they look new again :)

Pulled out the sensor adapter that screwed into the port on the engine where the factory oil pressure gauge went. I tried one brand and it was too short and fouled on the factory oil cooler hoses, the other one that was longer ended up leaking and I was worried that with that much weight hanging out the side of the block would not be happy long term - so I junked that and went back to the factory oil pressure sensor (on/off not actual pressure dang it)

Got a Skunk 2 drop in baffle kit for the sump, as well as their composite fuel rail - both are not installed yet.

I was looking at getting the DeatschWerks fuel pump module and return line kit that you can get that converts - without cutting - your deadhead fuel system to a semi or full return system depending on how you plumb it around the fuel rail and if you have an aftermarket rail or not.

...but now I have a dilemma that I'm chewing over and doing the numbers for. A friend offered to give me a freebie rolling body mr2 turbo shell (minus engine and gearbox) that he's finished with now. So for now all car building and bits are on hold until I figure this one out.

So either

a) I sell the ep3 and grab the mr2 shell and build a k-swap mr2.... The sale price of the ep3 at the moment would probably mostly cover the cost of getting the mr2 running and driving again on a k series setup.


b) I build the ep3 out as planned.

Going to visit him again this weekend and see whats been removed and what needs doing to the shell - it would still be cheaper than buying a base car tho as a starting point.

Great project keep up the great work

Regards Ross

Any updates and more pictures of you car?

Nothing worth posting about individually but I guess theres been a few bits n bobs done - so I'll edit the first post to update things