Discussion and questions related to the course EFI Wiring Fundamentals
I have just finished my first run of the wiring fundamentals course (also my first HPA course) and while I was apprehensive at first that there would be anything in it for me, I have filled in a lot of holes in my knowledge and cannot wait for the next courses, I found all the modules well presented and easy to follow.
Something I now know was lacking was proper crimping, ive already ordered better tools and some gear to practice on but it also leaves a practical problem.
I am unfortunate enough to have an E-manage piggyback in my Swift Sport, which I thought I was quite tricky in using Deutsch DT connectors on the connections that needed the factory wire cut and looped in and out of the E-manage, so it could easily be removed and reverted back to stock simply by plugging the bypassed parts back together. Problem is I now know ive used the wrong pins, the wrong plugs and the wrong crimp tool and while its all worked for 4 years its certainly not as sturdy as it should be.
So my question, ill be removing it soon so I can fit a standalone ecu that better suits my needs and that leaves me with repairing the section, its not a lot of wires and they are quite easy to get at, what is my best option? fairly certain if I was to pull the DT connectors apart and give them a decent enough 'tug test' i'll be left with a lot of bare wires, should I redo my original plan using DTM connectors correctly crimped? or make use of an open splice and heatshrink? Or is there a better way?
We've all been there mate, but if its lasted you four years, it cant be that bad of a job! Yes, I would repair that with open barrel crimps and heat-shrink.
Are you wanting to achieve the same result when you put in the standalone ecu? As in, keep your original wiring untouched and build an adapter harness to connect to your aftermarket ECU?
An adaptor harness would be my preferred option but apparently getting something that will fit the factory ecu plugs is difficult and expensive, if I can find one I will go with that though as it would be a lot simpler, otherwise ive thought about a pcb with the factory ecu socket one side and superseal on the other, but its not something I am familiar with so would be a bit make it up as I go.
I haven't considered 'cutting the plugs off' or any other permanent options yet as i'd like the option to revert to stock if need be if I need to go back to the drawing board on something, but I may change my mind down the track as I learn more about ecus, canbus and quality wiring.