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Engine assembly oil, lube and break-in new turbo and engine

Engine Building Fundamentals

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Discussion and questions related to the course Engine Building Fundamentals

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Hi everyone,

So very soon i'll be assembling my first engine, I still have a few questions left

1) I am aware that mineral oil can be used for lubing the components, considering that the engine will most likely be started after a few days (maybe 1 week) after being assembled, should I still use mineral oil?

2) As mentioned in the title, I'll be installing a gtx3582, should I go with full synthetic for engine break-in period?

3) The block has gone through a preparation with an experienced machinist, only did I notice that it has a few scratches in the bore that are not too deep but I can feel them with my fingernail, should I be worried?

Thank you


What is the engine make and model?

using mineral oil is sound advise and get the machine shop to check out the scratches

Regards Ross

Hi Ross,

It's a stroker 5 cylinder Audi AEL engine.

With 2.2 turbo head (AAN) and AEL block (2.5 diesel).

Pistons have a new teflon coating, rods and rings all forged.

OK, i'll use the mineral oil for lubricating when assembling and for breaking-in.

Thank you

what i did and is generally the consensus is mineral oil to lubricate the bores on assembly and thicker engine lube on all bearings and valve train parts.

run quality mineral oil during run in, i personally ran a break in specific oil that had high Zinc (ZDDP) this is required in flat tappet engines to prevent excessive cam wear.

prime the engine before first start up, if possible spin the oil pump with a drill or similar to generate pressure and pump oil to the top of the engine. if not possible then remove all spark plugs and turn ignition and fuel injectors off open the throttle and turn the motor over until you get oil pressure being careful not to over heat the starter motor.

then start and begin you break in procedure, i would dump the first oil and filter after 1-2 heat cycles. cut the filter and check for no nasty debris.

after about 200klm should be the second oil change and then 1000klms and so on. at 1000 klms swap to your synthetic oil, by this stage rings are bedded in and the slippery synthetic oil wont be an issue.

little things like filling the oil filter before installing helps the engine generate oil pressure quicker. you can get engine primers (large accumulators like an accusump) however for hobbist this is likely a cost that will be hard to justify.

Hi , how did it go with your engine ?

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