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Talk about engine building here. New products, tricky questions or showcase your work - If it's engine building related it's welcome here.
I was browsing one of the parts suppliers I use and they sell and 18-1 trigger wheel and it got me wondering if there would be any tangible benefit in changing the stock 2 tooth trigger disc on the 4G63 in my Evo when I next do the belts in a couple of months?
Using Link G4+ and around 450whp/ 550hp crank.
I've used both the stock EVO trigger wheel and aftermarket and I can't say there's any tangible improvements that I could really state. The stock 2 tooth trigger provides the ECU with data on both rising and falling edges of each tooth so that's essentially 4 inputs per crank revolution. This is adequate for high rpm operation but can provide some timing wander at idle (which is less important).
Thank you for the reply. I'll save my money by the sound of it! :)
I've just re-watched webinar 095 and I'm not entirely clear on the multi tooth Vs multi tooth missing options.
From what I understood the missing tooth choice is a better bet as the sync signal's timing is far less critical WRT to the Crank signal pulse, or did I misunderstand? This is pertinent as the standard camshaft sensor has 2 different sized teeth and I will need to remove one and can't adjust the physical position of the tooth or sensor, only which tooth (big or small) I remove?
Crank triggers for sequential injection have been around for 30+ years. Your engine has one of the earlier designs from the factory that isn't as accurate as more recent ones. The main reasons why trigger wheels have gotten more accurate (more teeth etc) over the years are emissions, variable valve timing (MIVEC in your case, and I'm assuming you don't have an Evo IX), and recently start/stop systems.
I wouldn't change it unless you are trying to address some known problem.
I have literally just installed an 18-1 trigger wheel (cam belt was due, so rude not to, at least that's my excuse!) and removed the small tooth from the Cam trigger, set base timing to 130 and she runs. Only issue I now face is that the tacho is reading literally off the clock. Having looked through the workshop manuals, I can't see the tacho wire (green white ECU pin 45) in the drawings at the ECU or anywhere else to ENSURE it doesn't go anywhere else/ do anything else before I move it.
I suspect that the crank signal is internally looped within the ECU from 43 (Crank) back out on 45 (Tacho)???? The fix is easy enough, in my mind, which is to move pin 45 to pin 56 (Injection 7, was IC Spray motor which is long gone) and job's a good 'un.
BEFORE I do that, can anyone confirm the above- as I would hate to move it and find out it feeds something else and cause a world of pain......
Plus side, I'll be able to have a taco sweep at key on now. Posted this on an associated thread on the Link forum too, hoping someone that's done it before can comment??
Update 1: I've removed pin 45 and run the car up. No ill effects apart from the tacho not working (obviously!).
Update 2: Found the tacho wire to the dash in another set of diagrams and it doesn't appear to go anywhere else, based on that drawing. Will install into 56 and set it up :)
Cheers. I posted on both forums.
Relatively straight-froward as a modification, just a couple of little quirks to overcome and as ever Link offers great tech support :)