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4g63t Evo 3

General Engine Building Discussion

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hey I'm currently in the process of building a 4g63t 7bolt Evo 3 and have a few questions

my goal

is to make at least 500hp

question will arp head studs handle this or will I need to go bigger

will a large in tank fuel pump be enough to feed 2000cc injectors or will I require a surge tank ?

in your engine building course it said you would be covering different engines when will you be rebuilding a 4g63t ?

Is their any little tricks you are willing to give away with these engines ? Ie balance shafts I've heard mixed reviews weather to remove completely or get them machined down so they are round and give oil pump better support etc

sorry for the list this is what I have so far

I currently have kelford 272 cams with beehive springs and retainers,Hks cam pulleys,ferrea comp plus valves std, gsc zero tick lifters,

sinco exhaust manifold t3 twin scroll

the guy I have doing my machining suggests that I stroke to a tomei 2.3l to achieve these results but it's a little daunting as the only kit I can find says crank rods and pistons only.

Are rings gudgion pins/ pin locks easily purchased ?

thanks for your time cheers Jade

We probably won't be covering a 4G63 in the real near future but I've built more of these engines than I care to remember, including several at or above the 1000 whp mark so I think I'm in a reasonable position to offer advice.

1. The basic ARP head stud kit will be adequate at power levels around 500 whp but if you go much higher than this I would recommend ARP L19 or equivalent. I've had the best results using an HKS 1.2 mm stopper type head gasket.

2. There's plenty of pumps that will be able to keep up with 4 2000 cc injectors.

3. With the balance shafts I always have the counter weights ground off the balance shaft driven off the oil pump. This means the oil pump gear is still correctly supported. The other shaft can be removed but the bearings need to be spun so that the oil feed is blocked off. Take special care to slot the oil feed hole for the centre main bearing so that it aligns with the oil gallery in the block. This helps prevent thrust bearing failures. I also went one step further and had a machinist add radial grooves to the surface of the thrust bearing on the flywheel side to improve oil dispersion.

4. The power you make will be very much dependent on the size of turbo and the fuel. You also haven't mentioned if you're talking flywheel or whp which makes a big difference. You can make 500 whp from a 2.0 litre quite easily so a 2.3 isn't essential. The 2.3 however will improve boost response and low rpm torque. Conversely it won't rev as well. It's really horses for courses. To give you some idea though, my own drag engine was still a 2.0 litre crank yet we made 1166 whp and revved to 10,500 rpm.

I hope this helps