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Hi I've just fitted a series 2 AEM to a Toyota soarer 1jz adapted from a Honda by driftmotion to be plug n play, it was bought with one of there base maps, it's all fitted and wired correctly, it's not starting, it's trying to start and may start for a split second but then dies, it also does a loud pop every now and then, from the engine so I went in to set up wizard and there isn't a cam/crank angle sensor selected/matched, could this be the reason for the problems? Which one needs to be selected as all Toyota ones seem to be for the 2jz? Sounds like it isnt picking up crank sensor and there for timing out? Not had a chance to get a timing light on it yet.
Added pics of base map settings
So the AEM series 2 was orignally fitted to a honda? My experience with AEM units is lacking, but in the Link world, the triggering setup isnt locked in their plug and play ECU's, so you can get them working on other vehicles without too much bother. I'll assume its the same with the AEM ecu's?
When you are cranking the engine are you getting a solid RPM signal in the ECU? You symptoms sound like the base timing is not set correctly, you're going to need to get a timing light on to it to confirm :-).
AEM never did a pnp for the soarer so drifmotion rework the Honda one and supply a harness to make it fit i thought it sounded timing related, ill get the timing light out at the weekend, i believe the 2jz crank/cam sensor is the same as the 1jz so ill try that as well as the timing calibration
Ahhhh, I see what you mean. Yeah, check the RPM input is solid, and the base timing and report back :-).
I'm pretty familiar with your setup. From what it sounds like is the base map they gave you happens to be a little different between the ignition sync they had compared to yours this is a simple fix.
First make sure you take off the cover to your cam gears and use white out on the TDC markings for both cam gears. (Much easier to see). Hook up a timing light and then go into the aem tuner software and on the top right tab it'll read "adv pickups" click that and in the options window you'll want to locate the "ignition sync" it'll have any number in it. And teeth after. That is what you'll adjust.
Have someone crank the engine and point the timing light at the cam gears. You'll want to confirm the light on the timing light is flashing everytime the cam gears are on the top basically TDC. That will confirm the spark is happening on compression stroke.
If for example you have in the ignition sync window a small number. Like let's say. 6 teeth. You'll want. To do a bigger number to test. Like 15 teeth. And try that and see what happens with the timing light and cam gears. Same goes vise versa. If basemap has 15 or 17 ignition sync go ahead and do a smaller number. And check.
Hope that makes sense. I have seen many base maps not start up JZ motors because usually the ignition sync is different.
Once it's on go ahead and sync the timing correctly at the crank using the aem wizard for timing sync.
Let us know how it goes.
Hi danny thanks for the reply, so ive had the timing light on and tdc mark doesn't read on the crank pulley its that far out, the ems is showing 5.1 degrees. so believe the spark will be happening on the exhaust stroke
also on the ignition sync its saying 18.539 teeth
Hey Paul. I'm pretty certain your ignition sync is just firing the ignition at the wrong engine cycle.
Please read what I had wrote VERY carefully and if done correctly should get your engine to spark at the correct engine cycle. The crank does 2 full revolutions for 1 full revolution of CAMS. Reason why I'm saying to point timing light at CAM GEARS and not the CRANK PULLEY.
OK so ive done as you've said the cam timing points light up just after tdc id say by about 3 teeth
Danny do you have whatsapp or facebook messenger might be easier to ask you a few questions i have?