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I have finally got the opportunity to tune a Haltech 950 elite, from scratch. This is my first time at doing this. The engine os a 4lt Landrover Disco 2000 model that has had the HAltech already installed and started on the base map before bringing it to me.
I have it on the dyno and am ready to start. It runs, is over fuelling, blows copius amounts of black smoke on acceleration and has a very poor idle.
AFR is jumping all over the place.
So i have set the base settings with what i already know from the manual that was given to me. What i want to work out is the Firing angle BTDC. The cam opens the inlet valve at 332deg and closes at 437deg. What figures do i need to start with for this?
You will be seeing rich missfires as lean fluctuations. I would try to get it running a bit cleaner before tweaking injection angle. Are the injector dead times and fuel pressure settings correct to the best of your knowledge?
I have been unable to find the injector dead times or flow rates, only impedence. They are stock injectors and cam. Fuel pressure is correct for the engine.
So is it best to get the base maps for fuel and ignition fine tuned first before injection angle etc? Or is there an order or procedure that is best when starting from a base map?
It runs a MAP sensor, coolant temp and TPS for primary inputs
this is a VE ecu u need to provide the ecu atleast the correct injector size because all the calculations that ecu make are base on the engine size, injector size, and other corrections like IAT sensor.. press F4 and correct everything on main settings, fuel, ignition and make sure the timing is dialed right before start revving the engine
I will talk to the guys that installed it and find out how accurate the initial figures are that they have entered. I will confirm the timing figures myself and go from there. It all looks a messy, have accepted the challenge, so will make it work.
Thanks for your help guys, got the timing dialed in and made a big difference. Smoothed out the AFRs and ignition tables and and is running a heap better.
Still got some work to do, but getting closer. Is there any tricks to sorting out the transition from Idling to putting the auto into gear with out stalling. Idling at 860rpm and when drive is selected, loads engine and cuts out.
I find having soft timing in the load/rpm points around idle and then an increasing timing below your target idle speed helps catch it and stabilise. Can do the same thing if running without an idle bypass/throttle stepper to give a stable idle that leaves enough torque if it starts to drop from electrical loads etc.
I haven't played with a 950 or a disco so I'm not sure what additional control strategies there are in that spec ecu & on the engine but you could probably take in a digital input from the gearbox to add extra idle effort for the solenoid duty (?) too. Likewise if you are triggering thermofans you should be able to link the output trigger in the idle control settings.
I will keep trying the timing and rpm points to improve it. Its a basic setup on an old car that has been converted to a late model engine and FI. Cheers for the advice, i will keep persevering
Can you post a datalog of what you are having trouble with?
if i dont bad remember there on the Elite serie a zero throttle ignition timing drift tables that u can advance and retard the timing based on the idle targe if the idle go below point advance the ignition and viceversa... thats located on main setup - ignition - zero throttle demand timing correction.