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Need Help with ECUMaster Black standalone in a BRZ

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hello! im currently swapping a 2JZ-GTE VVTi into my 2016 Subaru BRZ (USDM). Im having issues getting everything i need to connect to the ECU, not sure if theres something im missing or maybe its something ive done wrong. There are certain things i want to get to work wether its been done with them or not.

build breakdown is 2jz, single turbo, new fuel pump + hanger but using factory wires, hardwired boost controller, all new sensors factory sensors for the motor, no a/c for right now

i would potentially like to repurpose the factory sport button as a boost map changer. if possible i would like to use the factory dash seeing as they have support for it.

the ecu says it connects to the injectors but i have no way to test if they are actually firing seeing as im not in the position to test crank yet.

total list of issues im running into:

1. Unable to move to throttle body flap/motor but factory pedal displays output on logger

2. fuel tank level reads but thats the extent ive gotten and i doubt its correct

3. starter is nowhere to be found, maybe i cant find it in the software but ignition status keeps saying 'no sync' when laptop is connected to ECU

4. confused how the connections work for certain things (example: hardwired boost controller)

i am also going through the videos posted here as well and completely restarting my file but help from other people will always be appreciated.


Welcome! Hopefully you'll find some answers here in this webinar:


But really the Practical Reflash Tuning course is far more in depth in terms knowledge of setting up a standalone ECU, and also includes a full worked example tuning an ECUMaster ECU:


There's a lot to cover here,

Make sure the Black is on the latest firmware, there's some useful changes in the last few months of firmware updates.

how is it wired? neither the ECU or JZ plug into the factory chassis harness. I made adapters when I did this swap for a customer last year.

You can use the 'Test Outputs' tool to test fire all the injector, ignition and aux outputs to confirm they work including a boost solenoid if wired. (Would 100% let the ECU control the boost solenoid, not an external controller)

All the settings have to be 100% for DBW to work, if you can do a successful calibration then you have it wired and parameters correct. You can move the blade with your hand and see the voltages change in the log.

Is your chassis a smart key? or normal key? the smart key cars change the starter relay wiring

"Sync" is telling you the engines triggers are synchronized and the engine is running, not if the laptop is connected. Engine has to be spinning for this to change.

We usually reply within 12hrs (often sooner)

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