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I am using a ANLY SSR part# ASR-10DD trying to pwm a electric water pump . I have come across the following issue . I have wired the ssr multiple ways and can not make it work . By not making it work I mean I can only get the pump to make a buzzing noise but the impeller will not move . The buzzing noise increases and decreases depending on Hz's as well as on DC % adjustment . I have no 1 pin wired to 1 of the water pumps wire ( the other is direct ground to the battery for test puposes) , no2 to battery supply , no3 pin +12V from power probe and pin 4 wired to AUX 5 of my Link ECU .

I have verified with a mutlimeter that with nothing connected at the control (pin 3 and 4) I have apporx. 3.65MΩ and at output (pin 1 and 2) I have I have approx. 30kΩ . I do not know if this is an issue but on the output (pin 1 and 2) it doesn't matter which wire from the multimeter goes where I have the same reading . On the control I have to have the black wire at pin 3 and the red at pin 4 to get the above reading . If reveresedI get ol reading .

I have also verified with the wiring that I mentioned above besides the increase and decrease in buzzing sound with a multimeter I am having increase and decrease of voltage when I do the adjustments in the DC % menu in the Link software .

I have tried various frequencies from 10Hz's up to 300Hz's .

Any help would be much appreciated .

TIA .

NOTE, it's been a while, so more possible avenues to investigate rather than confirmed actual solutions.

The buzzing suggests the pump* is receiving the input - I would suspect a faulty pump. You have checked the impellor turns under finger pressure.

The pump, itself, may also be incorrectly wired to the relay - what make and model is it?

From what this https://datasheet4u.com/datasheet-pdf/ANLY/ASR-10DD-H/pdf.php?id=739302 data sheet says (also refer links at bottom), the relay is rated for a nominal max' of 10A with a surge of 50A (not sure how long for?), the switching input is pin #1 negative, pin #2 positive - you will be able to use either side as the switch from the ECU, depending on how it's configured - with pin #3 and #4 outputs that appear to be polarity insensitive. Some electronic devices are tolerant of reverse/incorrect wiring and or short term overloading, but not all - it may now be faulty.

*Some DDMs have a buzz feature for testing current/continuity, is that what you meant, not the pump? You seem proficient, have you considered a small test device by enclosing a small speaker in a box, with different selectable resistances (with suitable power ratings) in parallel? For a "one of", an ordinary 12V auto speaker should work as well.

Does the pump run with straight 12V DC? Can you get 100% 12V DC out of your SSR with the PWM driving 100% (or 0% if inverted).

Thank you for the help . Yes I have run it with direct 12v and works perfectly . The buzzing noise I was referring was the actual pump as it seem to get power but I assume not enough . I can help it spin with hand and it will keep moving but very very slow .

I honestly hadn't thought about the speaker although I was thinking of making a test bench in general but now due to have just moved to a new house and needing a lot of restoration etc. it is something that I will have to do later down the track more professionally and make a working area with all my tools etc.

So if I have understood correctly I have to reverse the wires pin 4 to pin 1 as well as the others and see how that goes ?!

TIA

Just an update . I tried wiring the ssr differently and had the same result . Although a little bit better as with AUX 5 PMW in #2 , I got a louder buzzing and know it will stop 0% , while before with the wiring in the initial post it would stop at 100% and 0% , while now as I said it will work properly as it will only stop at 0% . Is it possible that the issues I am having are due to the lack of a diode ? If so what size should I choose ( I have never used one so I don't know which one to choose and where it would be best to install)

Forgot to mention its Davies Craig EWP . But I was going to use the same set up with my snow perfromance kit (which arrived yesterday) and I did the same set up and got the same results as with the EWP .

I think your problem may be that those are electric motors that can't work with the PWM power, they need to see a variable voltage, so perhaps you could drive your PWM signal into a circuit with some large capacitors to cause a more variable DC Voltage with a ripple, instead of the on.off nature of a PWM square wave -- alternately try a much higher frequency (say 2000-4000hz). According to the Davies Craig website their motors are run with variable voltage to control the speed.

Or use a pump such as the Pierburg CWA pumps used by BWM that has a PWM input signal (so no SSR needed). I have used this on a couple of projects.

I get where you are coming from but the issue at hand is that I am experiencing the same problem with the snow performance pump. So it has to be either I have done something wrong in terms if wiring or software or I am dealing with a faulty ssr or ecu .

Where it becomes complicated is that from my little experience and with the help of people on this forum and other forums everything seems to be correct (at least that is what I have understood)

Now I do not know if a di or an input is needed or which one or a diode or something like that

Thank you

i run my Davies craig EWP150 using a 100amp Croydon SSR.

i followed the haltech high side wiring and it works down to 10% duty.

1st of all thanks to everyone for any input/help . I have ordered a few ssr's for this test as well for other stuff that I would like to control . The relay is gone , maybe it was faulty from day 1 maybe I fried it . Anywell as I said I order another one and have added a few more .

Yeah I have seen your thread Josh and have followed them as well as some other members .

Wanted to ask the following in regards of the ssr's . Why would you need a 100amp since the pump will only go to 14/15 amps according to spec sheet (except if I am reading it wrong) wouldn't a 25A be better as it will not be on the limit but not that far so it can be safe .

Also what would be the difference in the applications that we have if the output instead of 5-120VDC is for example 3-60VDC or 5-240VDC . We will only be regulating from 0 to 14V (even the controller states its operating range is 5-13.5V , maybe I am mistaken) .

Just to give an update the ssr was faulty . I received a new one and eveythring works properly (at least bench tested) . I will be moving to on car trials now .

Thanks to everyone that helped out .