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Cobb 4 bar MAP Sensor Calibration for a 2006 Subaru STi.

Link G4 Plus Software Tutorial

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Hello all,

I'm hoping someone may be able to provide me some details regarding the Cobb 4 bar MAP Sensor Calibration for a 2006 Subaru STi. I have the G4X WRX104 ECU and none of the provided calibration options are close enough to calibrate. I scoured the internet and even contacted Cobb, who told me "sorry" and suggest I try here. Luckily I love this place and I'm VIP :)

While were here, does some have a map file I can look at to compare the triggers, I have a standard EJ257 Single AVCS.



Attached Files
  • 2020-09-09-09_49_53-812300-Subaru-4-Bar-MAP-Sensor-Discontinued-Customer-Support-Center-COBB.png
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With the sensor plugged in, ignition on, but engine off, go to the runtimes screen (F12), analog tab and note down the voltage reported on the analog volt input that the MAP is connected too, then go to the general tab and note down the BAP. With those two bits of info I should be able to work it out.

Thanks Adam!

Can I bother you to take a quick peak at my ECU file. Coming from the Cobb Accesstuner world, Link is much more involved but in a good way, I've been so excited to sit and learn everything.

But I seem to be having a small issue with holding Idle. It seems that once the car is out of "cold start" mode and the wideband warms up enough and the ECU starts to read the numbers, the idle will jump to 2000RPM and hold there. I believe I have everything for the idle parameters set correctly, but may be missing something. If I adjust VE the RPM changes depending on the AFR.

Attached Files

Your idle control is in open loop so the ecu is holding a fixed throttle position, it wont try to control idle speed with the throttle. The idle ignition control will still be closed loop but that can only influence idle speed, it doesnt have enough effect to make large corrections. I suspect the throttle is probably too far open so as the engine warms up and your idle target drops, your idle speed will eventually exceed the "RPM lockout above target" so the idle ign control will turn off and your RPM will get "stuck" high. This is all just guessing since you didnt attach a log, but from your settings thats what I think is most likely.

I suggest before your next cold start, temporarily switch the idle speed control to closed loop mode, start a PC log and leave it idling/logging for the whole warm up, then save the log and switch back to open loop. Attach that log here and I will make some adjustments to get it much closer.

Alright, switched to close loop and attached log.

Car seemed to not hunt for idle but after warming it it stuck at 1200 RPM or so and would not drop. Plus I have to raise my VE to like 75 just to keep 14.7AFR, but that might be something I need to figure out on my end.

*Just subscribed to Evans Tuning as well, he goes in DETAIL of the ECU*

Appreciate all the help!!

Attached Files

Ok, some of the problem was your E-throttle PID had no integral so it was drifting off target. In the attached map I have copied some idle and E-throttle settings out of a V11 sti that Im working on, I suspect these will be similar enough.

Can you do another cold start with this file. You can use the file compare function in PC Link to see what I changed.

Attached Files

Awesome stuff Adam!

That really helped, can ran good all the way to full temp. Just need to mess with cranking and fine tune Idle. I did have CL Auto Mode going so that may or may not have helped.

I just really need to get it in my head that everything is adjustable and may need to be adjusted with Link, not that its a bad thing, guess I've been in simple mode with all these reflash ecu's.

I do have one other quick thing. When I turn the key from accessory to start mode the ECU seems to turn on then off then on again really fast. I hear a double click of a relay or something. Do not know if that is a setting or something normal going on. "Pre-Crank" is off if that is a thought. Just don't want to break anything.

Attached Files

Ok, A couple more tweaks in this one.

I dont know what the relay clicking noise is - there is no relay or device that clicks in the ECU. If you pull the board out of the case there is a LED on the board to indicate power, you could turn on ignition and watch that to see if power is being interrupted.

Attached Files

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