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ARP or OEM?

Practical Engine Building

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Discussion and questions related to the course Practical Engine Building

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Hey all,

I'm in the process of rebuilding a stock Honda H22 to Euro R specification. I'm running oversized Nippon Type S pistons, balance shaft delete kit, Euro R top end that's been ported & polished along with Ferrera valves and Supertech springs/retainers.

I've been having a bit of debate with people on this setup on whether or not I use ARP head studs or just go with brand new OEM Honda ones.

I'm only really planning on using this as a street car with the odd track day here and there so I was thinking OEM makes perfect sense for this use case but I wanted to ask here for an opinion on what route to pursue.

Cheers in advance.

If it's N/A, or even lightly force inductioned, the OEM should be perfectly fine.

As it uses studs, I assume it has a pure torque, and not a torque and turn spec' for the fasteners - the latter is a TTY standard and the fasteners would require replacement every time the head is removed?

I built the similar engine with only difference of having 75hp nitrous shot installed and I used ARP studs. Maybe it's overkill but static compression ratio is 12.5:1 so I thought it never hurts to have some safety margin bearing in mind nitrous oxide usage.

By the way, are you using open deck block or closed deck? I was very surprised to find out that stronger block (closed deck) has a smaller diameter crankshaft whilst opend deck has a thicker one. So i took closed deck block and machined it to open deck crankshaft size to make entire assembly stronger...

Still don't get it why Honda would have two different crankshafts in the same engine...

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