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Main/Chassis Harness Design

Practical Motorsport Wiring - Club Level

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I just wanted to get some feedback/impressions off of my first chassis harness design. I've done what I can to incorporate what I've learned from the wiring courses. The car is a 2G DSM (Talon) time attack car. No budget for a PDM, so it is a fuse/relay setup. It will be running a Haltech Elite 1500, OEM ignition setup (dual coil/wasted spark), high-z injectors (deleted OEM resistor pack), dual Walbro 450 fuel pumps, and a Nissan electric power steering column.

My largest concern is the way I have the kill switch wired in. I also elected for a starter relay, as I've read that the OEM starter solenoid can draw ~10A, and I didn't want to send that through a pushbutton. Does killing all power to the ECU (via the IGN ON switch) to turn the car off cause any issues? I've never worked with a setup that doesn't use the OEM key barrel.

Main fuse/relay panel will be either a GEP or Littelfuse unit; fuel pumps will be a Leash Electronics dual relay unit.

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I think you've done an excellent job, I would expect your engine to stop when the kill switch is activated. One key element is the 3 ohm resistor connected to the kill switch. This gives a current path for the alternator to dump it's current as the engine is stopping. since there won't be any other loads.

I appreciate the response, I'm still learning. So, the resistor is the current dump when using the FIA kill switch. When shutting the engine down via the IGN ON switch (which is the plan for normal shutdowns), does the battery act as the current dump from the alternator as it spins down? I assume this is the case, and it is safe to shut the car down with the IGN ON switch (instead of wear and tear on the FIA kill switch).