3D Modeling & CAD for Motorsport: Step 4 - Prototyping
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Step 4 - Prototyping
03.35
| 00:00 | - Now we've finalised our design, it's worth making a quick prototype to be sure it'll work before spending the time and money on manufacturing. |
| 00:08 | Although our CAD model looks promising and we've talked through the DFM considerations with the machinist, a physical test can often highlight issues that weren't obvious in the virtual world. |
| 00:20 | With an expensive manufacturing process such as CNC machining billet aluminium, it's worth spending some extra time to prototype the design and give us the confidence that it'll fit and not present any unforeseen problems. |
| 00:35 | There's a few options here, and one we'll be using is 3D printing. |
| 00:39 | However it's not practical to 3D print the entire part, not in a small scale hobbyist style 3D printer like the one we have access to anyway. |
| 00:49 | Instead, we'll 3D print sections of the valve cover that will be representative of the final part and allow us to check for clearance around the valve train. |
| 00:59 | In Fusion 360 we can make use of the move and copy tool to copy the main valve cover body, hiding the original so we don't risk changing it. |
| 01:08 | We can then use the offset plane tool to make a new plane and use this along with the split body tool to split the body through the plane. |
| 01:17 | This process essentially allows us to create the sections to the size that we're able to 3D print. |
| 01:23 | Using the 3D print tool under the make tab in the utilities toolbar, allows us to send an STL file directly to our slicing software. |
| 01:33 | Alternatively we could use Fusion 360 for this, either way is as simple as the other. |
| 01:40 | We use UltiMaker Cura at HPA with our Creality CR10S Pro printer. |
| 01:46 | The process is as simple as choosing the print orientation that's best for our part, working with the basic print settings, slicing the model and saving the tool path to a memory card. |
| 01:57 | The memory card can then be connected to the 3D printer and we can start the printing process. |
| 02:02 | With the finished prints, we can bolt them down to the cylinder head, checking if the mounting holes are in alignment and we have enough clearance around the valve train. |
| 02:11 | We also need to test fit the ignition coils and get an idea for how the finished part will look. |
| 02:17 | It's also important to understand that the 3D printed parts will not be quite as accurate as the machined product in most cases so while we can make adjustments to the model if we find a clear issue, very small misalignments with the holes, for example less than a few 10ths of a millimetre or so, should be expected. |
| 02:36 | An alternative option would be to use a CNC router to machine the flange from a relatively cheap material like MDF or maybe even aluminium sheet. |
| 02:47 | This way the flange can be machined and checked on the cylinder head to make sure the holes are in alignment. |
| 02:53 | CNC routers and 3D printers, although available at a hobbyist level, are still not commonplace in most enthusiast workshops. |
| 03:01 | So another option is to print the flange profile on paper or card, cut it out and hold it up to our cylinder head to check that the holes line up. |
| 03:10 | We just need to make sure that our scale is correct. |
| 03:13 | With any of these techniques, we're able to test if the valve cover will fit without any issues which is most of the concern. |
| 03:21 | Given the function of the part is relatively simple. |
| 03:24 | These are all relatively cheap and quick methods that could potentially save a lot of time and money if something has gone seriously wrong. |
